D30 hub bearings

[muddeprived]

You can always do the warn hub conversion. It is pricey but it's serviceable and bearings are like $40 or so.

 

[Ty2003K]

You can always do the warn hub conversion. It is pricey but it's serviceable and bearings are like $40 or so.

You can replace your unit bearings 5 times or more and still have paid less then the hub conversion.

Like others have said make sure the axle nuts are torqued properly. Timken is as good as anything else out there.

 

[muddeprived]

You can replace your unit bearings 5 times or more and still have paid less then the hub conversion.

Like others have said make sure the axle nuts are torqued properly. Timken is as good as anything else out there.

You got a point there but it's nice to be able to disconnect the hubs to reduce drivetrain wear and improve mileage.

 

[Ty2003K]

Mileage gain, don't count on it. I saw no improvement to mileage whatsover after I installed the kit on my Jeep. As far as drivetrain wear, Im sure it helps, but my stock front end with 150,000 miles looked pretty good when I tore it apart.

The real gain I see is the lockouts on each corner. Buts thats a different thread...

Just for clarification I think the hub conversions are a great choice if you can get a deal on one, just not worth the price when new.

 

[jeeperjohn]

I would like to see someone take a stock unit bearing and machine it so that tapered wheel bearings can be installed and replaced when needed. I have looked at the unit bearings before and thought it could be done if I had access to the machine shop to do it.

 

[Ferris73]

Thanks guys, I know it's the wide wheels causing my grief. I don't think I can use wheels with anymore backspacing as the tires rub on the LCA as it is when the wheels are turned tight. I did notice that the OEM units lasted about a year after my lift so I was a bit surprised when the new ones failed so quickly, they weren't Timkens, but they weren't the cheap ones either. Well, I'm getting faster at changing them out anyways!
As for the torque, I borrowed a friends torque wrench and I'm certain that the torque is correct.
Not wanting to put a whole lot more money into this rig...Thinking about an old M715 these days and selling my XJ. We'll see.

 

[Porch951]

What kinds of wheel spacings are you guys using that you have to keep replacing bearings like this?

 

[jeeperjohn]

careful John, part of your gov't informant relocation program insists that you never publish past life experiences. dont you remember when they said next time you will have to be relocated to downtown LA? thats worse than syberia.

now back to the unit bearings... has anyone come up with a heavier duty one that can be machined down a bit to fit? im sure the center splines are used in alot of other applications.

You weren't supposed to mention that! :twak:

 

[Boostwerks.com]

I honestly reccomend people try out the early (84-89) Tapered Roller hub units. They simply require the matching 84-89 rotor due to a slight offset difference. The reason everyone has issues with the 90+ bearings is because they are a ball bearing design. Ball bearings even with high quality machined races have no where near the same radial and thrust load capacity as a tapered roller. Chrysler even considers them a "wear item" just like spark plugs and brake pads and likely swapped to the design to cash in on service work.

Our big brake kit (currently in testing) uses the early bearings and it's been working great and should last forever.

 

[aintright]

aren't the 84-89 brakes the two piece rotors?

 

[Boostwerks.com]

Nope. Single Peice.

 

[1990JEEPXJ]

so these will also work on 90+ knuckles? all youll need are the hubs and rotors to make them work?