xj-grin
NAXJA Member #1096
- Location
- Colorado Springs, Colorado
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Shows what I know! NADA!
Shows what I know! NADA!
Colorado B/S Thread
- Thread starter in4aride
- Start date
YELLAHEEP
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Littleton, Colorado
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Dirty, have you looked at Z Automotive Techologies?
http://www.zautotech.com/index.html
They sell unlockers for '14-'16 Grands...... I dunno what year yours is though.
I looked them up as a few Hellcat guys use their Tazer Unlocker for the Hellcat to install a "line lock" upgrade that uses locks the front brakes using the ABS system and allows other things like entering info into navigation while the vehicle is moving (my wife wants this so she can use nav from the pass seat.) and several other things.
:dunno:
Dirty, have you looked at Z Automotive Techologies?
http://www.zautotech.com/index.html
They sell unlockers for '14-'16 Grands...... I dunno what year yours is though.
I looked them up as a few Hellcat guys use their Tazer Unlocker for the Hellcat to install a "line lock" upgrade that uses locks the front brakes using the ABS system and allows other things like entering info into navigation while the vehicle is moving (my wife wants this so she can use nav from the pass seat.) and several other things.
:dunno:
freerider15
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- FoCo, Crawlorado
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Started to knock out installing my 300M RCV's last night.
After 4+ hours, I'm no further than I was.
Stopped at 1:30AM.
Hope to have them in, everything assembled, and the front diff sealed by the time I call it quits tonight.
Long story short, these things are a MAJOR pain to install, as it currently is...
Started to knock out installing my 300M RCV's last night.
After 4+ hours, I'm no further than I was.
Stopped at 1:30AM.
Hope to have them in, everything assembled, and the front diff sealed by the time I call it quits tonight.
Long story short, these things are a MAJOR pain to install, as it currently is...
trippled
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- colorado springs, co
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Why so hard? I've never messed with rcvs before.
Why so hard? I've never messed with rcvs before.
- Location
- Thornton, CO
Re: The Colorado BS thread
I haven't messed with the one tons but the 44 sized joints are too large to fit through the knuckle. So you have to pull your whole outer setup off to install it.
I haven't messed with the one tons but the 44 sized joints are too large to fit through the knuckle. So you have to pull your whole outer setup off to install it.
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Seems like a ton of work since you were not breaking the 4340 shafts and if you were now you have a 3 planet gear 231 and d300 between the rcv300 m shafts and a stock aw4....seems like a fuse in the wrong place?...not to mention the ring and pinion between all that are you going to Jantz your front 60 with the 70 gear set to take advantage of the new shafts? Are your drive shafts capable of holding until the shafts ate an issue are you running like 1410 u joints?
Seems like a ton of work since you were not breaking the 4340 shafts and if you were now you have a 3 planet gear 231 and d300 between the rcv300 m shafts and a stock aw4....seems like a fuse in the wrong place?...not to mention the ring and pinion between all that are you going to Jantz your front 60 with the 70 gear set to take advantage of the new shafts? Are your drive shafts capable of holding until the shafts ate an issue are you running like 1410 u joints?
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freerider15
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- FoCo, Crawlorado
Re: The Colorado BS thread
A myriad of things.
It's not quite as easy as just sliding them through the hole like normal shafts with joints. Getting the CV to get into the boot took a bit of elbow grease, and getting it back out isn't the easiest.
There was a mixture of things that contributed:
1.) The rear of the knuckle needed to be clearanced quite a bit to make sure there was no interference with the CV boot. The lower kingpin dust cap hit too, but that's easy to clearance (or in my case shave the outer lip of the boot slightly.
2.) Getting it in and out for clearance checks takes a bit longer. Mind you, this in not a D30, so there's a bit more than just three bolts that hold the hub on. There's 5 spindle bolts, lining up and getting the wheel hub on, getting the spindle nuts correctly done, and then putting the yukon hubs on. It just took time going back and forth.
3.) I completely forgot about putting in the spindle seal, thrust washer, and dust cover. That contributed to one of the things of it seemingly like the shaft had too much play.
4.) Working late. This was probably what did me in the most, just not being all there.
Now that I got the knuckle clearanced, and new sets of spindle seal stuff, it went together just fine. It's a little squeaky turning the knuckled by hand right now (CV squeaking against the rubber boot), but it seems like that should go away over time.
Yeah, glad I didn't have to deal with that.
Eh, for what this is going on, I wouldn't call it a ton of work. I just needed to know what the issues were. The driver's side should be quite a bit quicker.
I'm not worried about my fuses.
I put 300M in because I've seen 4340 break, and it's a 50/50 shot of taking out the detroit. Being as I've still got the 4.0L, and I'm not super heavy on the skinny pedal, I'm not really worried about the AW4, motor, ring & pinion, etc. I'm running 1350's, with a 1310 IIRC at the front DS where it meets the T-case. My front shaft is my old rear shaft. So my front shafts is heavy duty, and my rear shaft is a High Angle Driveline shaft...so those will be fine.
As well, I really wanted to have spare shafts, since I don't want to go all the way out to somewhere like JV and not have a replacement. Now I've got a set of 4340 front spares, and a set of stock 14B rear spares.
Not too worried about the doubler either. If it somehow does give up the ghost, I'll look into throwing a 4 speed Atlas or a HERO case in.
I'm a bit lighter than a fully body rig, so that helps. I'm also running 40's, not something like 43" SX's :laugh:
I will say, the Yukon 4340 14 bolt shafts...other than being a PITA to cut...went nice and easy. Would have liked 300M in the rear to match the front, but at ~1/4 the cost, I think I can live with 4340 shafts :laugh:
Yeah, but that's kind of like the Gr5 vs. Gr8 discussion. Yes, the grade 5 will bend...with it will have sheared long before the grade 8 even started into any sort of elastic deformation.
I just try to make everything as beef as possible when in comes to the drivetrain stuff. I still think joints on the driveshafts would become the fuse, but I can't say for sure. In the end, I'd rather have peace of mind that everything is a little overbuilt, and it will be hard to find my fuse.
A myriad of things.
It's not quite as easy as just sliding them through the hole like normal shafts with joints. Getting the CV to get into the boot took a bit of elbow grease, and getting it back out isn't the easiest.
There was a mixture of things that contributed:
1.) The rear of the knuckle needed to be clearanced quite a bit to make sure there was no interference with the CV boot. The lower kingpin dust cap hit too, but that's easy to clearance (or in my case shave the outer lip of the boot slightly.
2.) Getting it in and out for clearance checks takes a bit longer. Mind you, this in not a D30, so there's a bit more than just three bolts that hold the hub on. There's 5 spindle bolts, lining up and getting the wheel hub on, getting the spindle nuts correctly done, and then putting the yukon hubs on. It just took time going back and forth.
3.) I completely forgot about putting in the spindle seal, thrust washer, and dust cover. That contributed to one of the things of it seemingly like the shaft had too much play.
4.) Working late. This was probably what did me in the most, just not being all there.
Now that I got the knuckle clearanced, and new sets of spindle seal stuff, it went together just fine. It's a little squeaky turning the knuckled by hand right now (CV squeaking against the rubber boot), but it seems like that should go away over time.
Yeah, glad I didn't have to deal with that.
Eh, for what this is going on, I wouldn't call it a ton of work. I just needed to know what the issues were. The driver's side should be quite a bit quicker.
I'm not worried about my fuses.
I put 300M in because I've seen 4340 break, and it's a 50/50 shot of taking out the detroit. Being as I've still got the 4.0L, and I'm not super heavy on the skinny pedal, I'm not really worried about the AW4, motor, ring & pinion, etc. I'm running 1350's, with a 1310 IIRC at the front DS where it meets the T-case. My front shaft is my old rear shaft. So my front shafts is heavy duty, and my rear shaft is a High Angle Driveline shaft...so those will be fine.
As well, I really wanted to have spare shafts, since I don't want to go all the way out to somewhere like JV and not have a replacement. Now I've got a set of 4340 front spares, and a set of stock 14B rear spares.
Not too worried about the doubler either. If it somehow does give up the ghost, I'll look into throwing a 4 speed Atlas or a HERO case in.
I'm a bit lighter than a fully body rig, so that helps. I'm also running 40's, not something like 43" SX's :laugh:
I will say, the Yukon 4340 14 bolt shafts...other than being a PITA to cut...went nice and easy. Would have liked 300M in the rear to match the front, but at ~1/4 the cost, I think I can live with 4340 shafts :laugh:
Yeah, but that's kind of like the Gr5 vs. Gr8 discussion. Yes, the grade 5 will bend...with it will have sheared long before the grade 8 even started into any sort of elastic deformation.
I just try to make everything as beef as possible when in comes to the drivetrain stuff. I still think joints on the driveshafts would become the fuse, but I can't say for sure. In the end, I'd rather have peace of mind that everything is a little overbuilt, and it will be hard to find my fuse.
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Just baiting your drive shaft set up out of you...I retubed my rear 1350 yoke 1310 cardan and stole the 32 spline 1310 cv yoke off my UN sold 231 picked up a cheap 32 spline cv yoke for the front pulled the 1350 cv yokes off the atlas a,d reused my old shafts for now...lol...just looking to see who on big tires and deep gears has run 1310s with reasonable success. ..I will build new shafts after I make headway and have trail ready rig again.
Just baiting your drive shaft set up out of you...I retubed my rear 1350 yoke 1310 cardan and stole the 32 spline 1310 cv yoke off my UN sold 231 picked up a cheap 32 spline cv yoke for the front pulled the 1350 cv yokes off the atlas a,d reused my old shafts for now...lol...just looking to see who on big tires and deep gears has run 1310s with reasonable success. ..I will build new shafts after I make headway and have trail ready rig again.
- Location
- Golden, CO
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Soooooooo, I was told to take a comp day tomorrow. My Mrs gave me a hall pass. Jr and I hope to be at the rock house on Kingston Peak before moon-set, to watch the Perseid meteor showers.
Soooooooo, I was told to take a comp day tomorrow. My Mrs gave me a hall pass. Jr and I hope to be at the rock house on Kingston Peak before moon-set, to watch the Perseid meteor showers.
old_man
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Loveland, Colorado
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Damn, I am envious. I have always had an interest in meteor showers. My mother got me out of bed back in 1966 to watch the Leonids. Being in West Texas 40 miles from the nearest city, was the perfect spot and I got to see what turned out to be a very historic shower. There were literally sheets of trails at a time. The estimate was around 200,000 per hour. It was a mind bending experience.
Damn, I am envious. I have always had an interest in meteor showers. My mother got me out of bed back in 1966 to watch the Leonids. Being in West Texas 40 miles from the nearest city, was the perfect spot and I got to see what turned out to be a very historic shower. There were literally sheets of trails at a time. The estimate was around 200,000 per hour. It was a mind bending experience.
- Location
- Golden, CO
Re: The Colorado BS thread
As an aside, our Adopt-a-Road poster is still on the sign board at the south end of the trail.
It was nothing that spectacular, but fun all the same. We did not get there until 12:30, we may have missed the peak for the evening?
As an aside, our Adopt-a-Road poster is still on the sign board at the south end of the trail.
freerider15
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- FoCo, Crawlorado
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Mike, I need to get with you on our Land Use, since we can get National Funds for that.
Looks for a thread in the BOD Forum soon.
Mike, I need to get with you on our Land Use, since we can get National Funds for that.
Looks for a thread in the BOD Forum soon.
old_man
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Loveland, Colorado
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Send me a pix of the two ends and if you can, a measurement of the shaft diamters. I may be able to fix you up.
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Thanks ...I do think I have one a buddy gave to me for a spare I think it is steel...lol...I just need to renember where I put it ...but with 5 days to next Jeep session I will save time by ordering the xj specific shaft mount it is male threaded to bolt into the shaft unlike my universal weld on adapter .
But ram is mounted. and mostly welded still needs ram pulled to finish clamp welds and a couple extra braces and a skin to add dent resistence to the .120 tube used and really tie it together. I is strong ebough to jack the front of jeep off the ground ...that is roughly 3,000lbs now.
Thanks ...I do think I have one a buddy gave to me for a spare I think it is steel...lol...I just need to renember where I put it ...but with 5 days to next Jeep session I will save time by ordering the xj specific shaft mount it is male threaded to bolt into the shaft unlike my universal weld on adapter .
But ram is mounted. and mostly welded still needs ram pulled to finish clamp welds and a couple extra braces and a skin to add dent resistence to the .120 tube used and really tie it together. I is strong ebough to jack the front of jeep off the ground ...that is roughly 3,000lbs now.
collkid
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Highlands Ranch, Colorado
The Colorado BS thread
Window tint is worth every cent of $225.
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Window tint is worth every cent of $225.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
