Colorado B/S Thread

[zluster]

Re: The Colorado BS thread

My KJ came with front tint. It was just dark enough that I pulled it off due to night visibility. To each their own.

 

[xj-grin]

Re: The Colorado BS thread

That is WAY dark, man. I got pulled over for a tint less dark than that in Iowa on my Titan, and the trooper o-so-kindly pointed out that it was also too dark for CO...

 

[in4aride]

Re: The Colorado BS thread

Lol. I run 2% on the rango. As well as a 9" brow.
Driving into the sun in deer country requires better visibility. Plus, back in vegass if you aren't blacked out you're burning up.

 

[Kittrell]

Re: The Colorado BS thread

I won't go darker than 35% on my front windows, I like to be able to actually see at night. Nothing on the windshield, rear or side windows, go as dark as you like. Though I am typically 35% all around. CO limit is 37%.

 

[Elguapo]

Re: The Colorado BS thread

I like 15% for a daily driver and 5% on a hotrod

 

[md21722]

Re: The Colorado BS thread

I am 100% serious, no humor in it except for how much of a joke Colorado is. Overpopulated and overpriced.

I lived in Laramie for a bit over a year, it is a college town but enjoyable due to price of living, surrounded by fun outdoors stuff, and weather if you like snow.
Lived in Cheyenne a bit over a year so far. Bigger, still cheap, just older and the downtown area is like a flashback from generations before I was born. Plenty of jobs because a lot of people are lazy.

I love Colorado, but due to the people and price, I will stay up here and drive down to enjoy it when I have time off.

The first time I was in Cheyenne about 15 years ago it seemed like an old Western town. The paved roads seemed out of place.

 

[trippled]

Re: The Colorado BS thread

The windows on the zj are tinted pretty dark. I love it during the day, but just trying to get out of a parking spot at night is a joke. Can't stand the brows tho. On the other hand, the xj has 0 tint, and it's like sitting in a green house in the summer.

 

[in4aride]

Re: The Colorado BS thread

I have to run one. At least 3/4 of my trips to and from work are with the sun right there. Factory visors suck. And considering it's an hour each way, it's kind of important.

 

[trippled]

Re: The Colorado BS thread

I know that feeling. I used to drive east in the morning, west in the evening. I could never escape the sun!

 

[md21722]

Re: The Colorado BS thread

Wear sunglasses. Doesn't solve it completely, but works well enough since you can't tint the windshield itself.

 

[collkid]

Re: The Colorado BS thread

back when I was delivering Pizza's I had a 94 Toyota Paeso.

Bought it for $800 and it had 5% all the way around.

Had to roll down the windows at night to see addresses.



However, 15% isn't bad at all. I've never seemed to have a problem. Sure does keep it cooler in the sun.

 

[in4aride]

Re: The Colorado BS thread

Sure ya can. A 60% tint looks factory but helps a ton.

 

[freerider15]

Re: The Colorado BS thread

Buggy hood and door panels complete.

Currently getting primer.

Tomorrow will be base and clearcoat.

fawwwk I forgot how expensive this stuff is.

$120/quart paint :laugh:

Just want it to look good for the shoot.

If/when another set of panels gets made...I'm finding something cheaper. :laugh:

 

[in4aride]

Re: The Colorado BS thread

That's gotta hurt. But look oh so good.





Peepeetouch

 

[1-tonxj]

Re: The Colorado BS thread

Buggy hood and door panels complete.

Currently getting primer.

Tomorrow will be base and clearcoat.

fawwwk I forgot how expensive this stuff is.

$120/quart paint :laugh:

Just want it to look good for the shoot.

If/when another set of panels gets made...I'm finding something cheaper. :laugh:

Factory match in a can from a auto paint supply store and spray max 2 k yield same results as spraying with a gun ...the orangle peel is minimal and the level of shine after depends on how nuch you want to smooth the clear up ...my Dodge fenders I painted in my semi reefer trailer turned to 80 degrees during the wind in march ...you can't tell it was ever re painted. been about 6 months looks like new ...lol...I really do a good job when hiding my mistakes .

 

[1-tonxj]

Re: The Colorado BS thread

Anyone have the daystar poly trans mount...if so what size are the studs. I seem to be missing all 4 it is in the jeep so cant take it to fit nuts up ...looked online I cant find it listed..

 

[proracedriver616]

Re: The Colorado BS thread

you can't tell it was ever re painted.

Just because you "cant tell" it was repainted doesnt mean the rest of the world cant.

Dont use that crap on your nice buggy, if anything just use single stage next time it needs a paintjob. You can get metallics or solids, any color other then pearls in a single stage. As you found out clearcoat and hardener end up being a big percentage of the money spent of a base/clear paintjob.

 

[1-tonxj]

Re: The Colorado BS thread

Just because you "cant tell" it was repainted doesnt mean the rest of the world cant.

Dont use that crap on your nice buggy, if anything just use single stage next time it needs a paintjob. You can get metallics or solids, any color other then pearls in a single stage. As you found out clearcoat and hardener end up being a big percentage of the money spent of a base/clear paintjob.

Its autonotive grade paint batched at an autonotive paint shop loaded into an aerosol can...sam mother fn paint they put in a gun ...spray max is a 2 part isocyanate cured clear in a 2 part can in either 4-1 mix or a few others depending on temp you work at...it is the same stuff you soray out of a gun in a fan spray 2 part can...you do not have a clue and are talking out your ass.

I have no idea how a paint in single stage that has the chemical resistence that a base coat clear coat done with a non plastic clear that can not be re flowed to blend would touch up in a un noticeable way or would hold up at the edges I do know spot blending can be done with bc/cc but the work is not
guaranteed to hold up like going panel break to break ...abywho...my paint job on my ram fenders looks as good as if I paid a shop to do it and If I can't tell you can't either ...lol...if you could you would be the first in 6 months that could ...paint work from panel break to break is super easy .

 

[1-tonxj]

Re: The Colorado BS thread

Made some drive shafts I retubed the old ones and learned after cutting them they are not heavy wall .188 just .120 wall..and one was hrew . I cut the front down 1.5. the atlas as opposed to the chain drive case front output sits a good 2.5 further forward I left a bit long to accomodate my front axle push I still need to do ...rear was lengthened about 10 inches it was slugged with 1.75 .120 wall and the middle 10 inches sleeved over the 1.75 with.120 wall 2.0 dom ...I gapped all welds on the tube at about 3/16ths and welded the valley but I'm not crazy about a .120 valley for weldment on my drive shafts ...it may be fine I'm no engineer so I tend to over do things when welding and bracing things , so since it will never go faster than 30 mph I think I will cut som of the 2.5 .250 wall dom ibto a few short sections cut them in two and weld them ovee the seams ...lol...I like the idea of welding the valley of .250 lip better than .120...

Anywho despite not having the right fittings to hook up my rear lines or the tine to find sonething to fill my atlas since it is instlalled but not filled I figure a turkey baster or maybe an old gear lube bottle squuezed into that hole...but with no brakes or oil in the atlas I still wanted to move it if even obly a foot...lol...so I strapped it so it would stop on about a foot forward and reverse I figure tje atlas will be fine only move 2 feet...it really does not pull too hard with the 5.0 gearing vs the 231 and I thinl the brakes should stop it when all 4 are working...

It should be on trail october in a half finished form good enough to wheel it atleast once but it has atleast another 6 months of finish body work to be what I want to call done...lol...is there really suxh a thing as done with a built Jeep as done ?

 

[freerider15]

Re: The Colorado BS thread

I've seen the paint in a can stuff, even with automotive grade paint.

While they do "work", they're very hard to get much in the way of great looking results (not that mine are anywhere near perfect).

With those, keeping the overlaps wet, and getting enough on seems to be a real chore. That, and in reality spray cans don't go very far...so I'd have to buy quite a few of them.

In reality, one I have the main stuff, it's just the paint and primer that get expensive. The reason my paint is so much is because it's a red, and it's a metallic pearl = $$$.

Will I ever do this again? See below

Well, FINALLY got the door panels and hood painted. Due to limitations in room at the time, it took ~3x longer than it normally would have.

I started wet sanding the primer around 4pm, and finished putting the last coat of clearcoat on the door panels around 2:30AM.

I had to do one group at a time (either hood, or the two door panels).

I was painting them laying flat, instead of hanging to help with runs since I'm a super amatuer :laugh:

They're not perfect by a long shot. Kind of hard to do when you have bugs from every nook and cranny trying to land in it, as well as normal dust, etc. I did try and make a paint booth, but nothing like what I did for the other panels.

IF I ever do this again, I'm either doing something like a quick single stage, or getting a carport to make as a booth :laugh:

Also, I'll do it when there is NO time crunch like I have now.