Colorado B/S Thread

Re: The Colorado BS thread

A DR2686 isn't a VIN inspection. It's an off road motorcycle inspection specifically to certify it as being now equipped and in compliance to be used on the road.

CSP is the only authority for these.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Yella. Know if I can go to any csp office or only the area in which I'm going to plate? The lack of being able to talk to someone and the tone if the office just doesn't appeal to me.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Nope. The CSP doesn't train all of their Troopers to do these kinds of specialized inspections, the ones that have been are "Technicians" and work specific hours and locations.

Have you tried the Castle Rock office?
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Castle rock and pueblo are 30 days out. Was going to look up here by foco if I don't hear back soon.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Oh well. I kept this kitchy-cool tailgate and tail light from the trailer, I just dig the patina on it...... might just have to make a man-cave wall hanging out of it. :D

IMG_20140531_140844187_HDR_zpsey6nuzv1.jpg

IMG_20140531_140911118_HDR_zpsxqo1mtfv.jpg

Looks like a good candidate for this:
Tailgatebench.jpg
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Yeah those benches are cool. Dont have room for something like that. But if i did, I'd want it to have more metal in the build.... Like using the main leaves turned upside down to make the armrests. Like this one. I'd also want to use the metal strips from the bed between the boards of the seat.

Tailgate-Bench-from-old-tailgates-26.jpg





For this wall art tailgate.... I need to find a real ratty 50's-60's license plate to mount above the tail light or screwed in place on it where someone had before (had screws in the holes above the C and E).....

This one would be amazing....

3198484758_d498192205_z.jpg
 
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Re: The Colorado BS thread

5y9unubu.jpg


Went to Bandimere yesterday for Mopar on the Mountain. Favorite ride that day. I don't know what what under the hood, but that his 12.4 dial in on the windshield. It sounded....angry.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Did you remove the rear bumper Anthony, or did it remove itself?
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

I would be sad if my stroker didn't do that.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Did a search and doesn't look like this has been posted yet:
200hp Supercharged Jeep XJ Cherokee dyno

Yah.

Well.

This is CobraMarty's "powerful" installation. Personally, I find it pretty funny as the 4 litre outputs 190 ponies stock. Mine was 168 ponies to the ground stock, more like 285 to the ground now. AW4 robs power...

Slightly more...

He also has a video showing the thing on the dyno. In the video, the engine is back firing, missing, and just generally sounding like a right pile of poo. Of course, he blames the dyno...

No, sorry, crappy tune using an undersized compressor. I have pushed my Sprintex to it's very limit. The S5-210 compressor is slightly smaller (displacement wise...) than the Eaton M62. If it were an Eaton, I guess you would call it an "M59".

Such being the case, I recommend that if an Eaton is to be used, then use an M90. Performance wise, it is rated to operated on engines with displacements from 3 to 5 litres.

The Sprintex is actually only rated to feed a 3 litre. However, and this is a big point here... You must limit the boost when the system does not include an intercooler. The Proverbial Rule of Thumb say 10 pounds is the safe maximum for this type of installation. What I have on board is a solid 8 pounds here in the Springs. At sea level, it would be 9.6 pounds.

The modifications that I made to the compressor to get it from the as shipped 5 pounds (here...) to where it is were pretty simple. The stock TB was replaced with a 68mm and, the drive pulley was replaced. The stock 58mm pulley was replaced with a 54mm pulley. That change happened by the direct request of Sprintex.

I enjoy a rather special relationship with them. The TB change I ran past their Engineering group prior to execution. The pulley change, as stated, was by their request. An experiment. That stayed on the Heep...

In the grand scheme of things, the TB took the boost from 5 PSIg to 7.5 PSIg. The pulley only contributed 0.5 PSIg. The pulley did, however, bring the maximum boost into play sooner as one would expect.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Thanks for putting down the detailed info.

I knew about HP at the crank vs wheel but never thought to look up the XJ stock numbers because I simply used a mental comparison to previously owned vehicles and thought 190 sounded reasonable enough for a DD+weekend warrior. (Personal experience said never buy anything rated less than 160 for all-around, daily driving.)

Did find this:
http://www.rockcrawler.com/techreports/dynomax_xj/page2.asp

They dyno'd a stock 4.H0 got 151 and change...
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

I have got to get some ink from you before I leave Colorado. Your skills are awesome.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Thanks for putting down the detailed info.

I knew about HP at the crank vs wheel but never thought to look up the XJ stock numbers because I simply used a mental comparison to previously owned vehicles and thought 190 sounded reasonable enough for a DD+weekend warrior. (Personal experience said never buy anything rated less than 160 for all-around, daily driving.)

Did find this:
http://www.rockcrawler.com/techreports/dynomax_xj/page2.asp

They dyno'd a stock 4.H0 got 151 and change...

Depending on the variables... 151 sounds very low indeed.

With 190 at the crank, the power train immediately starts stealing power away as it delivers it. A manual transmission equipped vehicle should be ran on the dyno in which ever gear gives a 1:1 ratio. For our Heeps, that is 4th gear in the manuals. It becomes more complicated with an automatic as the transmission will want to downshift when the throttle is cracked open. Getting the thing to stay in 3rd gear is fun.

OK, no. Fun, it is not. So far, the only method I have found is to disconnect the TCM and then reset the MIL codes after the run. I have looked at the PCM code but it is not straight forward in terms of disabling the shifts.

What I would expect to see in a manual transmission is closer to 175 ponies or, the "Rule" value of 8% loss. Yet another "Rule if Thumb " (those pesky things are just everywhere, aren't they?) says that a loss of 10% is to be expected with the automatic. According to that rule, then my Heep should have came in at 171 instead of 168. As far as I am concerned, the difference is in the noise level of the data.

At 151, that is a loss of 21%. Something wrong there...

As for a "minimum" HP rating for a DD, this is where it does get to be fun. The original VW Beetle made a resounding 24 ponies. Not much. But, it would run for nearly forever.

I find it interesting to look at the loss schedule. Every universal joint steals power away. More if they are old and the lubricant has either hardened or gone away... The differentials steal power, the transmission... Every bloody thing steals a bit as it goes by.

This is precisely why motorcycles are so efficient. As it turns out, a chain drive is about as efficient as it can get. Belt drives are almost as efficient as a chain, but not quite due to the "stiction" of the belt to the sheeves. Shaft driven are the worst of the lot for all that they are the cleanest.

As for me, I have been looking for additional power for all of my adult life and, for that mater, most of all of my life as I grew up in a household ran by an Original Hot Rodder. We had supercharged cars stacked to the ceiling of the garage... My Dad was big on sleepers. So, although the car would neatly remove your head under acceleration, the bodies usually looked like they had been reclaimed from a wrecking yard.

As it turns out, that was true more than once...

OK, off the soap box. You know how it is, once an Engineer...
 
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