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CO2 blow up

I totally disagree with not getting a Co2 tank! OBA are cool, but they are for one expensive, always slow, and SOME won't set a bead.

I totally LOVE my Co2 setup. It is like the ultimate swiss army knife/gizmo.

If I could go back in time, I would still get one, just go to a different shop to fill!

Jason
 
jeepinandy said:
CO2 is carbon dioxide wich you cannot breathe and live.....kinda like people suffocating using a kerosene heater i'm sure you've probably read about that....
People that are suffocating from kerosene heaters are doing so from CO, not CO2.
 
Yeah I agree I reasarched this to the ends of the earth when I decided to get some kind of OBA set-up and the only thing I could find that would have an advantage over the CO2 setup was a york style OBA setup that was belt driven. But the time and costs of getting all the parts and brackets and fabbin' up stuff was going to cost me about 2-3 times as much as putting together a non-powertank CO2 type setup. I've got everything I need here for less than 150 bucks. And I can move it from vehicle to vehicle without needing to move vehicles though the 20lb. tank can be a pain to move around when full.
 
Yeah, I got a 10lb tank. Kinda wish I would of gotten the 15, but the size of the 10 is great. Fits very nice where I have it.

I am taking my tank next week. I will keep ya all posted.

I got some PM's, asking if they put my regulator on to check pressure, no they did not (either did I). But that sounds like a great plan next time, so I can SEE the pressure. I think pressure should run around 1,800 right? I think the safety blow valve blow at 3,000!!!
 
ok. to clarify the gas heating up issue, what happened has to do with heat. co2 is like most other elements. it has 3 phases- solid liquid and gas. if the scale was mechanical, the cold temp shrunk the spring and it was off some. either way there was too much co2 in that bottle. the co2 was going through a phase change. there is a balance in the tank. at say 300 degrees, water would not boil if there was enough pressure to keep it in it's current phase. the same is true for basicly any element, just on a different scale. molecules would have no where to go, and as much would change phase to a gas that could until the amount of gas made enough pressure to keep the liquid from vaporizing. this is vapor pressure, and it changes with temp. the lower the temp, the lower the vapor press., because the molecules move around less. co2 IS more sensitive than other gases in this department. at the temps we live in, it takes less pressure keep it in liquid state. that is why you wouldn't want to fill that same bottle full of nitrogen for example. this is why they don't use compressed regular air.ok. what this means is that at 30 degrees or so F, the molecules are moving slower, so they don't try as hard to become gas, so the vapor press is less.
now for that same amount at a higher temp, the molecules move faster, the vapor press. increases, so more co2 evaporates, and there is more pressure for the same amount. so it was overfilled, and was at the press. it would otherwise be say at, 75 deg. if filled to spec. if properly filled, the burst press of the safety valve would be closer to 175 deg.F this is so if the bottle gets in a fire, it won't heat up enough to explode.
 
Spazz said:
Hydrostatic pressure :lecture: .. The people who filled your bottle have a real problem with overfilling bottles on cool mornings/days.. When things warm up, el-pop-o-rooni..

BS

Hydrostatic?

How about thermodynamic?

I've had no such problems with mine, SoCal Deserts and all. You'll be one happy camper on the trail with me if you pop a bead, x4-5 or so.

BTW, isn't 35's and beadlocks like cheating? :D

--ron
 
Quick thing on checking the pressure of your tank.

Co2 is filled by weight not pressure as it is stored in a liquid state at 300psi (+/- 10 psi)

at 0degreesF pressure=300psi

70F ambient 750-850psi (depends on the amount of liquid in cylinder)

120F Around 1500 psi
200+ is where you enter the red zone.
Your cylinder was designed for 1800psi working pressure
3000psi test pressure
Most Burst pressures are around 5500 PSI
All saftey devices are made for the 3000psi test pressure +0% -10%
The safteys are tested in random samples of lots that have to abide by the same rules the cylinders are tested to per CFR49 and DOT rules.
 
my-xj-addiction said:
Your body readily accepts co2 through the skin as well as thru the lungs.

Yes, but that also doesn't happen instantly. It takes time for your body to absorb enough CO2 to be a danger. If you open a window the CO2 is going to dissipate pretty quickly down to a level that is harmless. The only way you're going to be in any danger is if you don't air out your Jeep within a couple of minutes.
 
my-xj-addiction said:
Quick thing on checking the pressure of your tank.

Co2 is filled by weight not pressure as it is stored in a liquid state at 300psi (+/- 10 psi)

at 0degreesF pressure=300psi

70F ambient 750-850psi (depends on the amount of liquid in cylinder)

120F Around 1500 psi
200+ is where you enter the red zone.
Your cylinder was designed for 1800psi working pressure
3000psi test pressure
Most Burst pressures are around 5500 PSI
All saftey devices are made for the 3000psi test pressure +0% -10%
The safteys are tested in random samples of lots that have to abide by the same rules the cylinders are tested to per CFR49 and DOT rules.


So you are saying that either he had a bad burstdisk or the place that filled his bottle overfilled?
 
Not to hijack, but I've been looking for something similar... i have several of those paintball-type CO2 cylinders with the center-pin inlet on the top... does a valve/regulator exist to take one of those and output to a tire fill hose, and where do I get one? =]
 
thanks for the specifics, devildog. i was kinda wonderin' what those exact #'s were.

devildog0 said:
So you are saying that either he had a bad burstdisk or the place that filled his bottle overfilled?
the scale was off, (possibly because of the cold temp?) and it was overfilled.
 
Interesting info. One question though, and if this was already stated let me know... Does CO2 have a smell? When I 1st got my CO2 setup in the rear of my XJ I had a leaking fitting and would notice a stale smell inside the jeep. I always ran the blower and at least cracked the windows when the tank valve was open(CO2 powered ARB). I didnt let it get too bad and never felt light headed or anything just currious.
 
I've seen something like this right out of highschool. Had my parents propane tank for the barbeque grill do that while sitting in the sun, freaked me out since I'd never seen that before.
 
So, is there anyway for me to check it while I am there? Or worse case scenario when I get home?

I wieghed the tank EMPTY before I took it in WITH the valve and Reg. on, it wieghed 16.4 on my digital scale (I did this as I WAS going to wiegh it full so I would know when I was getting close to empty)

Not really all that scary now looking back on it, but if my wife and kids would have been with me, she would've killed me.

I would rather this not happen again!! LOL

Jason

P.S. I am taking my tank back to same place for new safety and fill wed.
 
steagall9301 said:
my cudo's to the layout of the cargo area

co2 or nitrogen is bad ju ju to be exposed to, keeping it at home till trips would be wise, if someone hasn't bought a tank yet, i recomend OBA compressor, a little slower but much lower chance of a boom ( 125 psi or no tank at all )

The key is to not fill to 100% capacity so the expanding co2 has a place to go... a safety zone of 10% is what is recommended. I have used em for over 15 years in paintball and 5 years in jeeps without any incident. I used a 15 in my XJ and even with it in there at freezing in flagstaff to above 100 parked in the sun in phoenix in the same day! no problems
 
devildog0 said:
So you are saying that either he had a bad burstdisk or the place that filled his bottle overfilled?
Overfilled....
I've filled thousands of co2s and had very very few blow on me and those that did blow were 20+ years old.
 
brtb said:
Not to hijack, but I've been looking for something similar... i have several of those paintball-type CO2 cylinders with the center-pin inlet on the top... does a valve/regulator exist to take one of those and output to a tire fill hose, and where do I get one? =]
Haven't seen one yet.
 
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