cleaning out the engine

[Kejtar]

Got a 94 jeep which was (actually still is) leaking oil from every single seal that there is there. Looks like previous owner was dumping some stop leak or something like that in there and I want to clean all that crap out, and I wondering which order to do it in and if I got everything covered:

1. Do the rear main, pan and valve cover gaskets and clean all the crap out
2. Drail the oil and fill it up with 5qts oil 1qt atf (IIRC atf was mentioned before as a goo cleaner) and run it for 10~15 minutes, drain and fill with same mixture again and then drain and fill with oil and after couple hundred miles drain and fill with oil again.

So what I'm wondering is should I do #1 first so that I'm not going to leak even more and make a bigger mess of things and then #2, or should I do one run of the oil +atf from #2 first so that I dislodge all the big chunks and then get them out while doing #1?

Or does anyone have any better suggestions?

 

[gcurtis]

When we started the TJ project we're completing, it had the same leak/gunk/crap in pan issues.

We ran some Seafoam in the motor and tank before we pulled the pan. After we pulled the pan (cleaned it) we replaced the rear main, gaskets etc and added a Fumoto valve to make changing the oil easier in the future (another couple of oil changes were in the vehicle's immediate future).

After that was all sealed up we steam cleaned the motor and undercarriage so that we could find the rest of the leaks (trans and transfer); it helped immensely.

 

[Kejtar]

When we started the TJ project we're completing, it had the same leak/gunk/crap in pan issues.

We ran some Seafoam in the motor and tank before we pulled the pan. After we pulled the pan (cleaned it) we replaced the rear main, gaskets etc and added a Fumoto valve to make changing the oil easier in the future (another couple of oil changes were in the vehicle's immediate future).

So you just added a can of seafoam into the oil and can into the gas? how long did you run it for?

After that was all sealed up we steam cleaned the motor and undercarriage so that we could find the rest of the leaks (trans and transfer); it helped immensely.

I'm thinking cleaning is in order BEFORE I even touch it (after would be the second cleaning) as finding bolt heads right now is a bit of an adventure.

 

[George2]

Yeah, you're on the right track!

If I were doing this, I'd put in 1 quart of ATF, and then drive about 100 miles or so. Make ONE of those trips to the local self-serve carwash, and wash down the undercarriage area of the engine. If you can wash off the SIDES of the engine, without drowning your distributor, then you're light-years ahead of the game.

After she's nice and clean, drive her home and drain the goo. Try to get a cheap "pocket magnet" of some kind to leave in the drain pan to catch the more interesting stuff you're going to find. You could also use a "pen-magnet", and stir through the bottom of the drainings, just to see what came out.

You're going to need at LEAST the following stuff, if you're really serious about getting the leak situation under control. You sound sincere and motivated, so here goes-

Oil pan gasket set, with RTV of choice. Look for "O2 sensor safe" RTV. I prefer the black stuff, because it's usable just about anywhwere.

Valve cover gasket. After the block is washed, you'll want to keep an eye on weepage from the valve cover. These usually leak like stuck pigs from the rear, which confuses one to believe that they need a...

Rear Main Seal; since you've already dropped the oil pan, then do some researching about changing the rear main oil seal. They're cheap money, and they usually ALL leak to some degree. Once you have changed these parts, you should have one dry, clean motor.

I bought a 1991 with 115K from the previous owner, and I had no idea what was going on inside the engine- the 1st ATF flush and drain brought out junk that looked like it was frags from a drill-press! Horrified, I immediately went the route I just described, and was able to inspect all the bearings and caps while the pan was dropped. I was glad that I went the whole route, since I plan on keeping this ride. The frags were actually "break-in" trash that never got flushed out or picked up by the oil pan drain plug magnet- but it's good to SEE FOR YOURSELF.

After you've done these things, please change your oil and filter every 3K miles! Check your AIR FILTER also, as the intake of dirty stuff from the intake is what really makes your oil black. I just changed out my oil at "our" new 3K interval, and it wasn't GOLDEN, but it wasn't crude-oil filthy either. My new K&N gets washed out, and re-oiled during the oil changes now.

You sound like you are taking a pre-emptive thought to your maintenance, and for that I congratulate you!

 

[Kejtar]

If I were doing this, I'd put in 1 quart of ATF, and then drive about 100 miles or so.

It will be worked on before it can drive 100 miles, so all the driving would be done with a brick and no rear driveshaft (it's missing it now )

Thanks for the suggestions on the rest, but I've done rear main and pan before, I'm just looking at the best way to dislodge and clean the internal gunk without taking the motor appart.

 

[gcurtis]

Remi, I think we ran it for an hour sitting in place (although the gas tank we ran an entire tank on but it was a driveable vehicle). Then we drained all of the crap out of it and steamed. We used a real steam/pressure washer (rented) and cleaned the greasy pig. After we buttoned it all back up we did a couple of quick oil changes just to get the remainder of the crap out as a "just in case".

Then we had the fun of tackling the transfer and trans leaks...

Oh yeah, and diff leaks.

Did I mention water pump leak?

Oh heck, we touched just about every bolt on the cooling system, exterior of the motor, transfer case, many of the exterior trans bolts, both axles and brakes....

 

[Yucca-Man]

Don't forget to throw an o-ring replacement on the oil filter adapter at some point in the near future. You know you'll need it one of these days anyway.

Jim

 

[WesternXJ]

While you've got the oil pan out, pull your oil pump out. Remove and clean the screen and make sure no crap got past the screen and into the pump. Trust me, it cost me a set of rod bearings. :rattle:

 

[Bounty Hunter]

There's no better cleaner than a steam cleaner for engine gunk.

 

[Gerr]

1 quart Atf for 15-20 minutes in a hot engine then drain and repete with new filters and you should be good to go that stop leak crap really doesnt gunk up to badly on the metal parts unless he used block sealer. you should check your oil pick up and any oil passages you can get to within your comfort level and make sure there isnt any crap trapped in them.

I use seafoam for about a week before every third oil change since my engine is well above 220,000 miles now and it stays nice and clean for almost the entire 3,000 miles.