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Clayton Longarms

this is directly from Currie's site:
ce9110sp.jpg

looks like a bolt welded to the johnny joint. i guess Currie don't know what they are doing either. :rolleyes:
 
If I was building something myself, I "might" be tempted to do something like that!But when buying something like LA's from a manufacturer I expect better than that,one concern would be the size(1" is just to small).I used 1-1/4"x14 on mine plus 1 7/8"x.188" for the sleeve!

jj%20end.jpg
 
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MrShoeBoy said:
That joint is nothing but a RE spherical bearing. Same joint found on their arms. How does RE get their joint on the end of their arms? They weld it. ...How are Claytons joints any different?

Clayton uses Johnny joints. In that case, you have to weld a threaded rod to the outer sleeve of the joint package.

The photo in the link looked like a standard, off-the-shelf spherical bearing (you called it that yourself) with a bolt welded to it. A spherical bearing cannot be field disassembled during the welding process, unlike a Johnny joint where you weld to an empty sleeve and then assemble the joint. And standard heim joints (or "spherical rod ends") are sold by hundreds of companies, so why in God's name would anyone screw around trying to make what's available as a one-piece, prefabbed assembly?

It doesn't add up for me.
 
Nothing for nothing ( I do have a Clayton kit sitting on my floor as I type this...you don't even wanna know where I got it or for how much...) But I know Andy generally uses just RE Superflex Joints....How do I know? I used to supply him with them. Now he gets them direct.
 
RCP Phx said:
If you played the whole slideshow youll realize these are the photo's used on their webpage.Welded bolts on all ends,low hanging mounts and no front shocks(lots of flex that way),and the rear doesn't even move!Good kit to avoid!

Why do you bash a kit that you have only seen pictures of? Have you actually used the kit and had a problem with it? I dont get why people beat on other peoples products when they have no first hand experiance.

As for the front shocks, how can one buy shocks if they dont know the lenght? Does Claytons come with shocks? The ramp shots shown where shot as the shock length was being measured. Mac, the owner of the green XJ shown in the pics just installed new RE leaf packs and they had not been broken in yet. If I recall, it takes a few flexings to get the springs worked in and flexable.

The Long Arm "Kit" available from CRSU is nothing but the brackets and arms. It comes with nothing else which keeps the cost down. Thats why theres no shocks, springs, brake lines, and etc...Its up to the buyer to purchase that stuff on their own. I have not herd or seen ANYTHING come back to CRSU that has been broken or have had problems with. The quality there is unmatched and if there is a problem, then it will be taken care of and fixed.

AARON
 
I got into a long discussion with Currie about their JJ with the bolt welded on. They made a smart ass comment asking why I didn't just weld them on ourselves instead of buying theirs. With the BS attitude I got while trying to order parts from them I decided not to deal with it.......
They are RE joints that use a bolt that has a notch cut into the head of them prior to welding. Just like the Currie ones..... 1"-14 is great compared to the 3/4-16 heims I see people using for control arms all the time.

I have been looking into getting a piece machined to replace the machined bolt.

We have a bunch of kits out there that have been well tested. It is not for everyone but most of them are getting the crap beaten out of them and no problems as of yet.

Clayton's kit is great, we have dealt with it before. We had a few customers asking for a kit that was a little different so we made it available to a few select testers and then we started from there. There are always gonna be evolutions in products and things that work for some and not for others.

If we have a problem then we will make a change. Otherwise we are working to evolve the product now.

Andy
 
Oh, and one more note......they are welded completely disassembled(so the bushings see absolutely no heat). They are also completely rebuildable just like the Currie JJs

Andy
 
I withdraw my comment, Andy, and thanks for the clarification. From the photo, i could not see anything that didn't look like a home-made Heim joint, which jst seemed like a very bad idea.
 
dude, you need 14" to clear 39's?

I have 7" in the front clearing a true 37" tire....

I think one ton has about he same clearing 38" of tire.

don't really care how much lift you have, just having trouble with the reason you are citing of tire clearance.

my rear suspension travels ALL OF 14" and it has about 8" of lift if that.....

this might make for a great debate on some other thread, but if there's one thing I learned recently about lift hieght, its "less is more"
 
I'm running the Long Arm kit from Carolina Rock Shop with no problems what so ever. I can state from first hand experience (since I'm actually running the kit :rolleyes: ) that it's a solid setup. My arms have seen Tellico numberous times (lower 2 included), and many hours of Hwy. driving as well. It performs, and is a solid kit. Andy is a more than qualified welder - and it's proven method to setup Johnny Joints - absolutely nothing "booty fab" about it.
As to having no shocks in some of the pics, we were simply testing her out. I was in the middle of a buildup, and hadn't gotten the shocks in yet. As of now, I'm running a set of 5100's, which seems to work great with my combo. Plenty of flex - but my goal is not to have a ramp queen :) Just something that works.
Not trying to come across as a jerk - just putting out the facts for those trying to make an informed decision. Plenty more pics in my sig of the kit, by the way.
 
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