Circle S bumper brackets

[Rob Mayercik]

It would be best to remove it.

I'd like nothing better than to get it out of there, but so far I've been unsuccessful in getting to even budge.

I did re-read your bumper thread last night, saw that pic of the plate. I also read the text on how you got the thing out of there (hence the edit to my last post). That leaves me with two questions for you:

1. Since I don't have a plasma cutter, do you think that if I were to get a Dremel cutting wheel in there to make small cuts down through the frame rail at the welds, then go under the rail and grind back "under" the plate slightly, would that likely compromise the welds enough that I could finally hammer it loose?

2. When you plasma cut the welds on yours, did those cuts go all the way through the rail? If so, did you weld those shut again or just treat to prevent rust and assume that the box-tube inserts that hold your bumper on would make up for the "lost strength"? I don't have a welder either, but plate appears to fall between the last two bolts on my so ultimately the cuts would be sandwiched between them and my new gas tank skid. I'm a little concerned about compromising the strength of the rail, but with the bracket inside and the skid outside, maybe I'm over-thinking.

Appreciate your thoughts!

 

[RCP Phx]

My original intention was to drill out the welds, with a little work I suppose you could use a Dremel. Yes I cleaned up the area with some small welds.

 

[SlowXj]

I installed these 1.5 ish years ago on a 96. A few well placed holes made with a drill from the bottom took care of the exhaust bracket thingy. (A cold chisel finished the job) after that I think I had to clearance one of the bumper holes for 10 seconds with a die grinder. They fit well and are super beef imo.
One thing I do recommend is to double nut the bumper bolts (I only did the 4 inner of the 8 bolts) I think this adds substantial strength for basically no money.

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[Rob Mayercik]

Ok, sounds like my plan is reasonable then. Might try drilling first though, see if I can save myself spending the $30 on the flex-shaft attachment for the Dremel. Just have to study RCP's pic a little more to work out where to place the holes.

SlowXj, the double nuts are an interesting idea, but how do they clear the leaf spring shackles? Think it's already pretty tight in that spot anyway, particularly with aftermarket lift shackles, right?


In any event, thanks for the advice, guys.

 

[SlowXj]

The picture shows the ones I double nutted

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[RCP Phx]

The picture shows the ones I double nutted

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I'm not sure what your doing? I replaced my 8 bolts on the valance with studs (using the factory insert nuts) and I bolt the bumper on with lock-washers and nuts.

 

[maxbraketorque]

Ok, sounds like my plan is reasonable then. Might try drilling first though, see if I can save myself spending the $30 on the flex-shaft attachment for the Dremel. Just have to study RCP's pic a little more to work out where to place the holes.

SlowXj, the double nuts are an interesting idea, but how do they clear the leaf spring shackles? Think it's already pretty tight in that spot anyway, particularly with aftermarket lift shackles, right?


In any event, thanks for the advice, guys.

As RCP Phx noted, there are two pretty decent welds holding that thing in place. I initially tried drilling and then grinding out the welds, but I gave up after the first hole kept getting bigger and bigger without the piece coming loose at all. Part of the problem is that its hard to identify the location of the welds.

What eventually worked for me in very short order was to whack the thing out with a sledge and a solid metal bar extension. I lined up the bar to push the piece down the tunnel. I used just enough upward angle on the bar to keep the bar from readily jumping over the piece. I think it came loose in about six good whacks. My recollection is that I lined up the bar to apply force at the point of the weld so that it sheared it cleanly off. There was some weld material left proud in the tunnel, so I ended up grinding a pocket in the bumper support bracket.

 

[RCP Phx]

One thing I do recommend is to double nut the bumper bolts (I only did the 4 inner of the 8 bolts) I think this adds substantial strength for basically no money.

I don't see how that could provide any additional strength?

 

[Rob Mayercik]

As RCP Phx noted, there are two pretty decent welds holding that thing in place. I initially tried drilling and then grinding out the welds, but I gave up after the first hole kept getting bigger and bigger without the piece coming loose at all. Part of the problem is that its hard to identify the location of the welds.

Yeah, that's a concern I have as well, since in my case I've got 30 years of "aging" obscuring there the welds were. That's why I was thinking of a Dremel Flex-Shaft and cutting wheel to make a short "slot cut" along the edge of the thing around where it looks like on RCP's pic the welds ought to be (assuming, of course, that a 92's plate was welded in the same way as his 2K was).

What eventually worked for me in very short order was to whack the thing out with a sledge and a solid metal bar extension. I lined up the bar to push the piece down the tunnel. I used just enough upward angle on the bar to keep the bar from readily jumping over the piece. I think it came loose in about six good whacks. My recollection is that I lined up the bar to apply force at the point of the weld so that it sheared it cleanly off. There was some weld material left proud in the tunnel, so I ended up grinding a pocket in the bumper support bracket.

By "solid metal bar extension" do you mean a socket extension? Want to make sure I undertstand the term as you are using it.

I tried using a "wrecking bar" like this: ( https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Prybar-15-in-High-Carbon-Steel-Wrecking-Bar/4777015, with the) flat end against the plate and beating on the curved end with a 3lb crosspeen hammer (was the closest one to hand at the time). When the wrecking bar wasn't jumping off the plate, it didn't seem like I was making any headway toward knocking it loose.

I do have a 3lb hand sledge I could use instead of the crosspeen, and I can cut a piece of the 1x1x1/8 angle iron I have laying around to give me a little more length than the wrecking bar, and I can put the point of the angle as close to the weld as I can get it to try and focus the force.

Or do I need something bigger than 3lbs? I do have a 10lb sledge as well, but it's not a "hand" model so it would be a bit unwieldly to try and use one-handed...

 

[maxbraketorque]

I've found that pry bars like what you show don't work too well for how you tried to use it. Too much flex or a tendency to skip off the target. I used a 1/2" diameter x 18" piece of reasonable strength steel. It was part of a garage door torsion spring tensioner package I bought a few years ago. I can't remember if I used my framing hammer or my 10 lb sledge. I probably used my 10 lb sledge which as you suspect would have been hard to use with one hand. I'd try your 3 lb hand sledge.

 

[Rob Mayercik]

Ok, then a hunk of the angle iron it is then for tomorrow's attempt. Thanks!

 

[Rob Mayercik]

Just wanted to post a quick update:

Started out yesterday with a 16-inch hunk of angle iron, beating away. Didn't seem like it wanted to move.

So, I put the cutting wheel in the Dremel, managed to properly guess where the rear edge of the little plate was, and made a small shot cut across the weld.

Once I did that, the remainder of the weld failed and the plate stood up under more hammering. A couple solid whacks against the "underside" of the second weld, and it gave easily. The rest of the job (getting the bracket into the rail, and hoisting my new IRO tank skid into place) went smoothly.

Thanks again for the advice, you guys. Pretty sure it made the difference.

 

[maxbraketorque]

Glad you got it.