Caster totally whacked after drop brackets

[NW-ZJ-SCOTT]

I messed around with it some more tonight. Before, my lca's were slid to the very back of the adjustment bracket. I pushed them all the way forward (maybe an inch?) and got it to 4.8 degrees on both sides. I'd like a little more but is a LONG way from where it was. The difference in handling is amazing. I'm going to call rokmen tomorrow and find out how deep their threads go. If there's room, I'll shorter them. Otherwise I'll start looking into adjustable balljoints.

I take it you didn't use the stock caster adjuster sleeves that bolt into the drop brackets? Your lower control arm bolts WILL move back the first time you hit the brakes. I had to weld washers in and eliminate that slide slot for the frame side lca bolts.

 

[Lurch]

I messed around with it some more tonight. Before, my lca's were slid to the very back of the adjustment bracket. I pushed them all the way forward (maybe an inch?) and got it to 4.8 degrees on both sides. I'd like a little more but is a LONG way from where it was. The difference in handling is amazing. I'm going to call rokmen tomorrow and find out how deep their threads go. If there's room, I'll shorter them. Otherwise I'll start looking into adjustable balljoints.

My Rokmen LCA's are at 16" and could probably be dialed back another .5" or so if needed. Very happy w the Rokmen's pure beef.

 

[DanMan2k06]

I did use the stock adjuster sleeves, they're still in there. I hopped on the highway for about 2 miles before pulling back into the shop and pushing them back to their original horrible position. I figured even if I hulk hogan'd the lca bolts they would slide back without any sort of shim in there.

Lurch, do you have control arm drop brackets though? If you do there's no way you have good caster with the lowers at 16 and the stock uppers.

 

[Lurch]

I did use the stock adjuster sleeves, they're still in there. I hopped on the highway for about 2 miles before pulling back into the shop and pushing them back to their original horrible position. I figured even if I hulk hogan'd the lca bolts they would slide back without any sort of shim in there.

Lurch, do you have control arm drop brackets though? If you do there's no way you have good caster with the lowers at 16 and the stock uppers.

Yes, I have the RE drop brackets with Rokmen uppers as well. Caster isn't perfect, but it's where I want it to be for a decent pinion angle and the Jeep doesn't wander at all.

Just checked my notes' uca are at 15.25" and lca are at 15.875"

 

[NW-ZJ-SCOTT]

Just measured mine. @ 7" lift

16" lca
15" uca

Lower arms are pushed all the way back. Caster is perfect as of last time on a laser machine

 

[rockclimber]

disregard everyone else's measurements. every jeep's CA mounts are not going to be the same. minute differences in where the mounts were welded on will make those numbers meaningless.

if you refuse to get adjustable lowers and do it the right way I would cut the axle end of your uppers off, trim the tube and re-weld them. Rokmen taps the tubing directly, so unless they run that tap all the way in cutting the threaded end shorter won't help you.

also remember that ideal caster changes with lift height and increased tire size.

 

[xjtrailrider]

I'm running the RE DB's w/Rokmen uppers and JKS lowers, RE 4.5 springs and ACOS adjusted to make up for the winch and add another 1" of lift.

To get my caster where it feels good I lengthened the lowers and the uppers are all the way in. I have not checked it on a rack, I do all of my alignments at home but caster is one of those things that you can feel when driving. You can also measure it with an angle finder. I have about 5 degrees right now and my DS is looking a little short so that needs to be fixed since I lengthened the lowers.

You should be able to shim the fixed lowers out?

 

[DanMan2k06]

Before, my lca's were slid to the very back of the adjustment bracket. I pushed them all the way forward (maybe an inch?) and got it to 4.8 degrees on both sides. I'd like a little more but is a LONG way from where it was.

If the rokmen uppers are tapped longer then the shank of the johnny joint, I'll cut the tub shorter and live with it. Otherwise I may be investing in a new front bumper and some adjustable lowers... Ugh.

 

[DanMan2k06]

Talked to Jeff at rokmen today, talk about a cool guy. He told me all about how the arms are put together, CNC bored and tapped etc etc. He said the threading only goes approx. 1/4" below the shank of the johnny joint, with the jam nut, at it's deepest point. So cutting the DOM shorter is a no go, at least not for the amount I need.

After talking about custom arms, I was pretty much set on selling the uppers I have now (they're brand f'ing new) and picking up some one-off shorter versions. But after laying under my jeep for a few minutes I had an idea. Don't rip me to shreds for this, I'm just brainstorming. Behind the upper control arm (drop) bracket, there's a TON of metal. What if I drilled a new mounting hole about 3/4" back from the original? Seems like it would work? I that doesn't do it, Rokmen's definitely getting another call here soon...

 

[rockclimber]

pics.

 

[DanMan2k06]

Here's what I was talking about with drilling new holes in the upper mounts. I think I'd be able to scoot them back a half inch or so without any issues.

 

[DeftwillP]

With regard to the maxed out LCA adjustment: what did you use for shims in the pockets?

 

[DanMan2k06]

A block of urethane with 2 channels ground into it for the bolts to sit in. I just measured the distance of the gap when the lower bolt and caster adjuster were maxed out and cut/ground to fit. Hardly a "shim" at all lol.

 

[DeftwillP]

So a piece of kitchen cutting board should do it then.

 

[NW99XJ]

Is the option of having a machine shop modify the thread depth of your uppers an option?
Maybe throw the stockers back in for a few days (or what ever the turn around time is) and have those uppers shortened an inch, and the threads deepened? Might be cheaper in the long run vs. having to replace drop brackets that got screwed up from a modification attempt (not saying that re-drill idea wont work or is a bad idea) and probably still cheaper than replacing the lowers with adjustables.
-just shootin from the hip here....

 

[DanMan2k06]

So a piece of kitchen cutting board should do it then.

Since there's no load applied to them, yup. The LCA bolt is what holds everything in place. From GoJeep:

I have used steel, aluminium and plastic to make my packers with good results as it has very little force applied to it as the main bolt holds everything in place. I just drill the two 9 mm holes 14 mm from the top and then cut down to them with a hacksaw to make the slots. You might have a factory shim to use as a template to make it easier.

Oh, and my cutting board is made of granite, so I can't relate to this

I'll talk to our local machine shop and see what they say. Rokmen said it wasn't possible, but it could have been mostly for liability reasons who knows. I'll post up what I find.

 

[DanMan2k06]

Went ahead and cut the arms. Worked perfect, no issues at all. Drilled about 2" deeper than the existing threads with a .6875" bit in a press, and ran a 3/4"-16 tap down to make some new threads. Then cut off exactly 1" from the tub. No damage to the nice stock powdercoat, and no messing around with re-welding anything. Couldn't be happier how it turned out.

 

[bcmaxx]

Went ahead and cut the arms. Worked perfect, no issues at all. Drilled about 2" deeper than the existing threads with a .6875" bit in a press, and ran a 3/4"-16 tap down to make some new threads. Then cut off exactly 1" from the tub. No damage to the nice stock powdercoat, and no messing around with re-welding anything. Couldn't be happier how it turned out.

slick!

 

[rockclimber]

looks good... I would have just welded them and not screwed with having to re-thread... but thats just me.

 

[DanMan2k06]

That was option 2, but after blowing $300 on them I really didn't want to mess up their nice powdercoat finish