RichP
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Effort, Pa
Need to do some work on the YJ carb. Picked up a chilton manual [terrible] and need some better schematics on the carb. Any good sites out there.
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Carberator information
- Thread starter RichP
- Start date
- Location
- Terra Firma
You don't need a better manual, you need a STND (small thermonuclear device). That carb is junk -- don't fix it, lose it.
Habla usted "Holley"?
Habla usted "Holley"?
RichP
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Effort, Pa
habla denaro ?? 
Have not thought of carbs for many many years, Holley 2bbl hmmmm. Need to search out some prices....
Have not thought of carbs for many many years, Holley 2bbl hmmmm. Need to search out some prices....
- Location
- Terra Firma
I have no idea on cost. I believe John in Greece got his setup through Rusty's, so start with Rusty.
RichP
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Effort, Pa
On first pass, ~$300 for the Holley 2300 and $450 for a webber. Like them both and have run both holley and webber, 4bbl Holleys in US iron and D481's in my porsche powerd 58 vw. In the mean time we found the problem, fuel was dribbling out the venturie's during low idle causing it to run very rich with the idle plate closed. Just pulled it apart, ran some copper wires and carb cleaner thru them and reassembled, stopped one side, took it apart again and recleaned it, reassembled, no more dribbles and it idles nice and smoothly now.
Oh, alternator died last nite, quick $80 for that. Next we need to pick up a vapor cannister to keep the carb from sucking up any more dirt.
Did a flush on the cooling system on sunday, noticed a leak around the top bung on the rad, figured to go for it and pulled out the old propane torch, resoldered it and no more leak...for now. But it needs a new rad, this looks like OEM and even after the long flush, backflush kit install and backflush there is still alot of crud in there choking the core but at least it stays at 190f rock solid.
Oh, alternator died last nite, quick $80 for that. Next we need to pick up a vapor cannister to keep the carb from sucking up any more dirt.
Did a flush on the cooling system on sunday, noticed a leak around the top bung on the rad, figured to go for it and pulled out the old propane torch, resoldered it and no more leak...for now. But it needs a new rad, this looks like OEM and even after the long flush, backflush kit install and backflush there is still alot of crud in there choking the core but at least it stays at 190f rock solid.
