Can Any Fool Swap an 8.8 Rear End into an XJ?

[rockclimber]

I just went to a parts store and bought a second passenger side line. I dont have a reciept, but i doubt If it was more that 10$

 

[travisk]

I'd be looking at another $50 to buy a passenger side line, two hard lines and a bending tool, which I would inevitably screw up at least once.

I think the hose will be easier for me. If I don't like it, I'll change it out later.

 

[cracker]

I'd be looking at another $50 to buy a passenger side line, two hard lines and a bending tool, which I would inevitably screw up at least once.

I think the hose will be easier for me. If I don't like it, I'll change it out later.

The tool is easily rented and the hard lines are cheap.

 

[rockclimber]

I just get the off the shelf hard lines and bend them by hand. It's really not that hard and doesn't cost much.

 

[cracker]

I do so many axles I bought the tool but yes, one can easily do it by hand or bend it against rounded surfaces.

You can also rent the tool to flare it as well.

 

[01upcountry]

I just ordered my rough stuff parts today (8.8 exploder swap )and a SYE kit from iron rock, this thread is good info. I bought an open 3.55 geared axle for 60 bucks.
I am going to go with 33x12.50s so I got given a 4.10 geared axle yay me. Im doing this swap due to my D35 spitting out the pinion seal before that it was axle seal on the pass. side all this after rebuilding the darn thing 2 yrs. ago (before I knew what a a pile the thing was) memorial day weekends pinion seal was the final straw I refuse to put anymore seals or time in it. I check the lube every other day or so and i'm driving it till my parts arrive. Great thread keep the up dates comeing.

 

[REVROK]

Best way I know to find an 8.8 in the ratio you want http://car-part.com/. When I bought mine 3 years ago I found a 96 4.10 LS for $250 off that site about 150 miles away and was given brakes, emergency brake cables and lines with it. The axle was so clean that I didn't even do a brake job! Called ahead and they already had it pulled for me. I bought Mr. Gasket perches for about $25.00 and cut off and re-welded most of the brackets off a D35 I had sitting around. $60 for new u-bolts which a local guy custom bends for me and I was done. Took me an afternoon. Hooking up the E-brake was the hardest part. Cost way less than a re-gear and much beefier!

Ruffstuff Kit looks nice! IRO also has a kit that includes a truss and is XJ specific for $199 http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merc...ROR&Product_Code=IR-XF88BK&Category_Code=F88S That is definitely the route I would go if I was doing mine now.

 

[5-Speed XJ]

don't forget to weld the tubes

 

[cracker]

don't forget to weld the tubes

Those shock mounts are not done well.

Shocks on an xj should be as far out on the axle as possible. Like / \

That will make it a smoother ride and maximize travel.

Use a shock mount that orients the shock perpendicular to the axle, not the way you have it. It will bind the way you have it

 

[souske]

Wouldnt mounting them flatter lessen the effectiveness of.the shocks.and require stiffer valving?

 

[kastein]

6 of one, half dozen of the other, that's exactly what cracker just said, but stated using all the opposite terms. Choose your poison.

However, his point about mounting axis for the shock bar pin and eye is spot on. Put em both the same way and it won't articulate well at all in the other direction (as it'll be trying to bend the studs/mounting bolts) - so you should always either put the studs/bolts perpendicular to each other or plan things so that you don't need it to articulate in that direction.

Obviously, shocks with heim ends tosses this all out the window.

 

[5-Speed XJ]

Those shock mounts are not done well.

Shocks on an xj should be as far out on the axle as possible. Like / \

That will make it a smoother ride and maximize travel.

Use a shock mount that orients the shock perpendicular to the axle, not the way you have it. It will bind the way you have it

yeah old picture they are how they should be now and will be going through the floor soon :cheers:

 

[01upcountry]

Mine is done parking brakes are hooked up .

 

[travisk]

Cal helped me install the Ford 8.8 onto my XJ last weekend. It went pretty well and I'm happy with the results.

Getting the axle lined up and the pinion angle set wasn't as complicated as I thought, but it was definitely easier with two sets of hands.

The 1966 Mustang brake line hooked right up and allowed me to reuse the rest of the Explorer brake lines, although I had to bend the hard line in a few places. We also reused the shock mounts from the old Dana 35.

I still need to get the new drive shaft installed and figure out the parking brake, but that shouldn't be too hard. The install took us about 6 hours total, but half of that was Cal making fun of my tools while I was busy losing his. :laugh3:

Here are a few pics:

Welding the tubes

Setting up the RuffStuff spring perches

Tacking on the spring perches

The results

Big thanks to Cal for helping me with this. It would have taken me much longer to figure it out on my own.

 

[rockclimber]

any particular reason you didn't fully weld the tube?

 

[Goatman]

any particular reason you didn't fully weld the tube?

That would be overkill, and would add too much heat. You're just trying to keep the axle from rotating in the center section, a couple of stitch welds will do that.

 

[cracker]

That would be overkill, and would add too much heat. You're just trying to keep the axle from rotating in the center section, a couple of stitch welds will do that.

X2 Not much is needed....the 1/4" axle tubes can rip easily and will tear before the weld will give.

 

[Wiggleworm]

For the ebrake I used 2 passenger side cables and criss crossed them above the axle then zip tied them up there. I believe I had to make the passenger side come up the body on the drivers side and vice versa. They fit right into the retainers on the body. The cable ends wouldnt reach the ebrake threaded rod so I pulled it from the console and added about 3-4" of rod on the end. Had to trim, I think, about 2 or 3 rounds of the spring on the axle end.

 

[GrimmJeeper]

For the ebrake I used 2 passenger side cables and criss crossed them above the axle then zip tied them up there. I believe I had to make the passenger side come up the body on the drivers side and vice versa. They fit right into the retainers on the body. The cable ends wouldnt reach the ebrake threaded rod so I pulled it from the console and added about 3-4" of rod on the end. Had to trim, I think, about 2 or 3 rounds of the spring on the axle end.

what year is your XJ? the late models mount the ebrake cables both on the driver side near where the fuel filter would be on the early models.

 

[kastein]

For the ebrake I used 2 passenger side cables and criss crossed them above the axle then zip tied them up there. I believe I had to make the passenger side come up the body on the drivers side and vice versa. They fit right into the retainers on the body. The cable ends wouldnt reach the ebrake threaded rod so I pulled it from the console and added about 3-4" of rod on the end. Had to trim, I think, about 2 or 3 rounds of the spring on the axle end.

This is about what I did on my MJ, I just used two long-side Explorer ebrake cables.