- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
It isn't. The only reason the c-clips stay in is because the axleshafts are prevented from sliding further into the diff by the presence of the cross shaft.
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Can Any Fool Swap an 8.8 Rear End into an XJ?
- Thread starter travisk
- Start date
SteveMongr
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Chicamacomico, NC
8.8 is narrow
The problem with the 8.8 is the track width. It's an inch narrower than an XJ.
Better off re-gearing the 29 spline 8.25. It's cheaper too.
The problem with the 8.8 is the track width. It's an inch narrower than an XJ.
Better off re-gearing the 29 spline 8.25. It's cheaper too.
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
I'm not sure where you came from or why you chose this thread to say that in after he already got it, but: many people disagree and if they have to pay someone to install their R&P set, it can be around the same price or cheaper to go 8.8, and even comes with disc brakes and marginally larger axle tubes. Oh, and the pinion shaft is larger in diameter, the axleshafts are 2 splines larger and 1.32" diameter instead of 1.21", which matters more than it sounds like. In fact I ran a basic torsional stress calculation and going from 1.21" to 1.32" is approximately a 30% increase in shaft strength even with exactly the same alloy used - because all the material is added at the outside, furthest from the center of the shaft, and increases the strength more than it would further in.
It's a little narrower... big deal. Deal with it with wheels with less backspacing or run spacers.
It's a little narrower... big deal. Deal with it with wheels with less backspacing or run spacers.
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- Location
- Columbus, In
I run 10.5's but even if I ran 12.5's I don't think I'd have an issue with rubbing with the narrower track width. You know my jeep isn't very tall either, Ken.
Re: 8.8 is narrow
Wow, that is the crappy advice. :huh:
Its not an inch narrower....it should be 3/8 on each side narrower and with aftermarket wheels, it is not an issue.
The 8.8 Axle is stronger than a 29 spline 8.25 as well. (1.24" diameter shaft on the 29 spline vs. 1.33" on the 8.8)
The 8.8 will have discs as well.
Wow, that is the crappy advice. :huh:
Its not an inch narrower....it should be 3/8 on each side narrower and with aftermarket wheels, it is not an issue.
The 8.8 Axle is stronger than a 29 spline 8.25 as well. (1.24" diameter shaft on the 29 spline vs. 1.33" on the 8.8)
The 8.8 will have discs as well.
travisk
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Fullerton, CA
I borrowed my newborn son's baby butt cream to check the gears. This pattern looks ok, right?
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- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
Can't really tell since it isn't all that opaque and doesn't have the right consistency, but my guess is "decent".
How do the coast and drive patterns match up? My understanding is that they're supposed to be roughly opposite each other and centered, and neither of the axles I've set up/reset so far have exploded with reasonable amounts of wheeling and pavement.
How do the coast and drive patterns match up? My understanding is that they're supposed to be roughly opposite each other and centered, and neither of the axles I've set up/reset so far have exploded with reasonable amounts of wheeling and pavement.
travisk
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Fullerton, CA
Thanks. It's easier to see in person. Both sides match up. They don't have gear marking compound at Autozone and I'm stuck at home so I had to make due.
- Location
- Virginia City, NV
Tooth paste works too.
Outlander560
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- New York
so does a tube of red synthetic grease...or i have even heard people say oil base paints (never tried that one)
Re: Can Any Fool Swap an 8.8 Rear End into an XJ?u
Is there a favorite year explorer or ranger to grab the 8.8 out of? Did i also read they a posi/ limited slip?And with this do you have to modify the brake system to use rear disc( proportioning valve)
Is there a favorite year explorer or ranger to grab the 8.8 out of? Did i also read they a posi/ limited slip?And with this do you have to modify the brake system to use rear disc( proportioning valve)
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
I just tore one out of a 96. Anything with discs (95 and later afaik) is fair game, up to around 00-01.
If you live in the rust belt make sure you check under the plastic banding label wrapped around the tube by the passenger spring perch to make sure it doesn't have like a quarter inch deep rust trench in the tube.
Axle codes are on the door tag with the tire size, look for AXLE at the bottom of the tag about 1/3 of the way from the side closest to the bottom of the door, then there will be a two letter/two number code under it. Code 42 is 4.10 open diff, code D2 is 4.10 limited slip. I believe 46 is 3.73 (not sure, google ford explorer axle ratio codes) and iirc D6 is 3.73 limited slip. 3.55 open and limited are also available.
If you live in the rust belt make sure you check under the plastic banding label wrapped around the tube by the passenger spring perch to make sure it doesn't have like a quarter inch deep rust trench in the tube.
Axle codes are on the door tag with the tire size, look for AXLE at the bottom of the tag about 1/3 of the way from the side closest to the bottom of the door, then there will be a two letter/two number code under it. Code 42 is 4.10 open diff, code D2 is 4.10 limited slip. I believe 46 is 3.73 (not sure, google ford explorer axle ratio codes) and iirc D6 is 3.73 limited slip. 3.55 open and limited are also available.
travisk
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Fullerton, CA
Code D4 is 3.73 Limited Slip. I sampled about 25 rear ends, and the vast majority were either D4 or 46.
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
Yeah, 90% of the ones at my local yard are 46/3.73 open with a few others thrown in. I grabbed a D2 4.10 limited slip today for another 
member, it took me maybe 30 minutes to pull since I brought the big guns (cordless angle grinder, hydro floor jack, 3/4" drive breaker bar, cordless sawzall.)
member, it took me maybe 30 minutes to pull since I brought the big guns (cordless angle grinder, hydro floor jack, 3/4" drive breaker bar, cordless sawzall.)
travisk
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Fullerton, CA
I spent a few hours cleaning up as much of the rust as I could with some wire wheels and a stripping disk. Today I started priming it.
travisk
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Fullerton, CA
It's all cleaned up and ready to go in.
I keep wondering why Ford put this hefty axle in every stupid Exploder while Chrysler stuck a Dana 35 in my XJ.
I keep wondering why Ford put this hefty axle in every stupid Exploder while Chrysler stuck a Dana 35 in my XJ.
- Location
- San Diego
Weight of the axle. Fuel savings. Weight of the vehicle.
travisk
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Fullerton, CA
After searching far and wide, I found a way to re-use all of the Ford 8.8 brake lines for $10.
There's a front brake line for a 1966 Mustang that can adapt the hard line from the XJ frame to the soft line coming off of the 8.8. Without it, the 8.8 line would be too short for a lifted XJ.
Autozone PN 88291
Oreillys PN BH36593
Now I don't have to buy all new soft lines and bend new hard lines.
There's a front brake line for a 1966 Mustang that can adapt the hard line from the XJ frame to the soft line coming off of the 8.8. Without it, the 8.8 line would be too short for a lifted XJ.
Autozone PN 88291
Oreillys PN BH36593
Now I don't have to buy all new soft lines and bend new hard lines.
When pulling the 8.8 out of a yard, we usually pull the axle out, then go to another vehicle and pull another passenger side caliper brake hose, pull off the drivers side and bolt it up so we don't have to pay extra.
We bend new line and use a braided brake line at the vent hole. Takes about 10 minutes to make new brake lines so it really isn't a big deal. Looks nice too.
We bend new line and use a braided brake line at the vent hole. Takes about 10 minutes to make new brake lines so it really isn't a big deal. Looks nice too.
