Camshaft

That cam has an advertised overlap of 56* with .421" lift. I've read multiple times over the years that you want a cam with low overlap in a FI app. The 87-95 cam has 46* and the 96-01 cam has 43*. I'd go with the Mopar P4529228 with 24* overlap and .43" lift or the P4529229 with 32* of overlap and .44" lift.
 
I like that -28 cam and 1.7 roller rockers.
 
Yeah, that 28 cam is a low-rpm torque beast because of the low overlap, thus higher DCR. I have the discontinued 30 cam in my stroker, which is 40* overlap and .45" lift.
 
I don't belive the stock numbers are correct. ICA and CLA are reversed. The later FSM shows a ICA or 114 and a CLA of 107.2. Which doesn't add up. ICA should be 107.2 and CLA is 114.
 
I don't belive the stock numbers are correct. ICA and CLA are reversed. The later FSM shows a ICA or 114 and a CLA of 107.2. Which doesn't add up. ICA should be 107.2 and CLA is 114.

The Melling 1376 and 1377 are stock replacements for the '96-'04 cam and they claim an ICA of 110*, ECA of 105*, so the LSA is 107.5*. Duration at 0.050" lift is 188* intake, 190* exhaust.
 
I was just asking because I have had it on the shelf for 4 years. Has about 500 miles on it. Looks new, I had it in a JUNK TITAN STOKER I bought back when no one knew about their products. I am doing a build for a basic street stock 4.0 and trying to go WAY low budget since I bought this Jeep with high hopes of a daily driver since my TJ gets 12 miles to the gallon with the stroker in it. I have three cams I just have to pick one that isn't going to be a constant hassle. If my stock ones bearing journals didn't look so bad in my 99 I would use it. How the weather in the UAE Dino long time no chat, I just got back on Hesco Forum.
 
That cam has an advertised overlap of 56* with .421" lift. I've read multiple times over the years that you want a cam with low overlap in a FI app. The 87-95 cam has 46* and the 96-01 cam has 43*. I'd go with the Mopar P4529228 with 24* overlap and .43" lift or the P4529229 with 32* of overlap and .44" lift.


I know what your saying but their lift measurements don't add up either.
I think they did the lift spec with a 1.5 ratio rocker instead of a 1.6. I measure three lobes and multiplied and came up with 433 lift. It ran good in my stroker a little lazy off idle but I had gears and a stick so it didn't matter. Unfortunately it made a little to much chamber pressure and I couldnt get rid of ping. Went with a comp 235-4 and my rattle/ping was gone, but so was my mileage LOL! Switched to a 232-4 mileage didn't get any better and the engine won't pull past 4700 hardly unless its in a lower gear.
Later discussion with Lee at HESCO and he said he had the same experience with the 232-4. For right now the 232-4 is staying but the 235-4 will find its way back in later on, it really came alive after 2000rpm.
 
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I had a Hesco RVOB cam, which has an over lap of 44* and it had a bit of a cold start problem until the O2 sensors kicked in. But that is my engine. The Comp 68-231-4 works fine with FI and provides more upper RPM power vs the 232.
 
Yeah, that 28 cam is a low-rpm torque beast because of the low overlap, thus higher DCR. I have the discontinued 30 cam in my stroker, which is 40* overlap and .45" lift.


I know this is an older post but how does your engine run with the 4529230? Any computer issues or hiccups through the rpm range?

I found a couple new ones, trying to decide between that and the 28 or 29.
 
The 30 works great in my stroker because I regularly rev up to 5k/thrash around whether merging onto the highway or keeping it in 2nd during an auto-x. Other than a slight lope at idle, my 96 obd2 works with it just fine. I'd recommend the 28 to those who want that low end grunt and don't spend much time over 4k. I'd like to run one w/ 1.7 RRs somewhere down the line.
 
The 30 works great in my stroker because I regularly rev up to 5k/thrash around whether merging onto the highway or keeping it in 2nd during an auto-x. Other than a slight lope at idle, my 96 obd2 works with it just fine. I'd recommend the 28 to those who want that low end grunt and don't spend much time over 4k. I'd like to run one w/ 1.7 RRs somewhere down the line.


Thanks for the input, I think the ECU obd2 system is the same for you 96 versus my 99 so I should not have huge issues. Mild port work on head, port match, un shadow the exhaust valves which will lower comp as well. working on relieving the dead quench area now. I want a basic daily driver and dependable but I also want to take advantage of all free Ponies. A turbo might invade the engine bay next year when the house is paid off!
 
The 28 and 29 would be better for a turbo due to low overlap.

Yes.

The less overlap the better. With both valves open, the boosted engine will tend to force unburnt fuel out the exhaust which messes with the O2 sensor to no end. To uninitiated would attempt to dial back the fuel to correct and subsequently fry the engine...

Have not lived until you get to see a piston with some of the crown missing...
 
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