Building a king pin 60

Jump This

Jump This

Just another minion!
Location
Borrego Springs Ca.
I'm closing in on that part of my build up.
By Friday I should be able to pick up my narrowed axle from Troy.

So, where to go from there?
I'll be running 5x5.5 wheels, so I'll need different hubs.
But from who?
Detroit, with cut a cut down inner axle. 35 spline outters...
I'll be running full hydro with the front axle pushed out at least 6".
I'll be running a wristed radius arm (three link with pan hard)


How would you (or how have you) gone about your 60 build?
 
Jump This said:
I'll be running a wristed radius arm (three link with pan hard)
Click to expand...

radius arm = :bawl:
3-link = :)

Which is it? :D

www.partsmike.com sells Dana 60 hubs/rotors in 5 x 5.5" bolt pattern...not cheap, but if that's what you need, he's got 'em. I've ordered a bunch of stuff from him and he's kinda local to you (same state, anyway).

How much steering are you looking for? Might be tough to get a lot with a narrowed axle and some XJ frame still left...
 
Why not have a local machine shop turn down the hubs and redrill them and the rotors to 5 on 5 1/2? Are you running 15" wheels? I can see that being an issue with the 1 ton brakes.

I agree with Vette about the radius arm. It's not like a proper 3 link is going to be all that hard for you to build after everything else you're building anyway.
 
Yeah, Parts Mike should be able to get you everything you need.

Nice to see you're moving along with this.......
 
vetteboy said:
Not if you use the Blackbirds brackets.
Click to expand...

thats what ill be doing for brakes on my 60, Uses 3/4 ton chevy calipers and rotors. Theyll clear pretty much all steelie 15" rims with around 4/4.5" of BS or less. Ive heard even some alum 15" will clear.





Im guessing you already have some nice wheels/beadlocks with a 5x5.5 pattern you wanna keep (i know thats why Opie is running 5x5.5 stuff on his 609). Im gunna agree with Isral and say you should have you hubs milled down and redrilled. If you already have some if good shape, why spend extra on new ones? if you do have to go new, Solid axle has some too.





How narrow are you going? Did you just cut down the long side, or both?
 
I do admit to be totally lost on the terminology used in describing front linked suspension. You may read someplace about a radius arm and then see it termed something else on another site.

I will be running a three link with panhard.

I was unaware there was even the possibility of turning down the stock hubs and rotors. Although for time sake, I'll probably just order a set of the Blackbirds (with brakes.)

4.25" was cut off of the long side of an axle out of a '86 DRW Ford (the notes on the build are in the garage and I don't remember exactly what WMS I was going to end up with.)
 
Easiest explanation I can think of is a radius arm set up has two attachment points on the frame and three or four on the axle. What is normally thought of as a three link on NAXJA has 3 attachment points on the frame and 3 on the axle. Both have a panhard/trackbar.

It sounds like your width will be close to what I’m doing as well. Stock width for the 85-91.5 D60’s is 69”. I cut 5” off the long side only which will put me at 64ish. You should be around 65” or so.
 
I love my radius arms. It flexes reasonably. I wristed one side and it now flexes so much I can't run it without limiting straps.
 
Wristed means that only one of the arms (one side) controls the axle rotation. It really refers to a Ford style radius arm that normally has a single hard attachement point at the axle, then adds a joint on one side so only the other side (still hard mounted to the axle) controls all of the axle rotation. Y link arms, which have an upper arm mounted to the lower arm and an upper axle mount, are also refered to as radius arms since the effect is the links hard mounted to the axle. If you ran an upper arm on only one side, I guess you could call that a wristed radius arm, since it would have the same effect of having axle rotation controlled on only one side, but it's technically not the same as a wristed Ford style radius arm.

A 3 link is 3 arms, usually two lowers and one upper, all individually attached to the axle and frame. A wishbone is a four link that has the arms come together and use only one joint to attach to either the frame or axle, but it acts exactly the same as a triangulated four link. Panhard bars are never counted as a link, radius arms or 3 links need a panhard bar, traingulated 4 links (or wishbones) don't need a panhard bar. The XJ/TJ/ZJ/Dodge trucks/etc use a four link with a panhard, but the four link isn't triangulated.

There you go, is this suffiently off topic to your axle tread? :)
 
Goatman said:
Wristed means that only one of the arms (one side) controls the axle rotation. It really refers to a Ford style radius arm that normally has a single hard attachement point at the axle, then adds a joint on one side so only the other side (still hard mounted to the axle) controls all of the axle rotation. Y link arms, which have an upper arm mounted to the lower arm and an upper axle mount, are also refered to as radius arms since the effect is the links hard mounted to the axle. If you ran an upper arm on only one side, I guess you could call that a wristed radius arm, since it would have the same effect of having axle rotation controlled on only one side, but it's technically not the same as a wristed Ford style radius arm.

A 3 link is 3 arms, usually two lowers and one upper, all individually attached to the axle and frame. A wishbone is a four link that has the arms come together and use only one joint to attach to either the frame or axle, but it acts exactly the same as a triangulated four link. Panhard bars are never counted as a link, radius arms or 3 links need a panhard bar, traingulated 4 links (or wishbones) don't need a panhard bar. The XJ/TJ/ZJ/Dodge trucks/etc use a four link with a panhard, but the four link isn't triangulated.

There you go, is this suffiently off topic to your axle tread? :)
Click to expand...

Really not off topic. If someone is going to build a front 60, they need to know what sort of suspension they are going to run and the appropriate terminology for it.
Thanks Richard.
 
Nothing yet, I still can't stand up straight after paying for the hubs, brakes, calipers, Detroit, R&P....and I haven't even bought the axles yet.

Parts should arrive by Friday though.
 
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