Build thread for project "why am I doing this"
- Thread starter adanymous
- Start date
Hey guys. I'm not getting a pile of replies here, which is cool. But I NEED HELP here so please reply if you have the answers. So I'm gonna go 8.8. I'm lifting the rig 5.5 so I need an sye obviously. While I'm in that case should I rebuild it. Should I replace the chain? 220k on the clock. Where should I get the parts? Are there differences between the eBay cheapie and the expensive stuff from jb. Also since I gotta pull the t case will it be a problem with my iron rock lift to install it without the t case in place? Can I get the t case back in with the IRO LA bracket installed?
- Location
- Southern Maryland
Depends on the SYE you are going to be using. If its just a hack-and-tap, then you can do that without removing the transfercase, and there's no need to open (high mileage refresh is a good reason but not A does not require B). If you are getting a shaft replacement then you will have to open it anyway ofc, and its easier on the bench where you can keep track of everything, and then yeah go ahead and replace stuff because its there and open already. The biggest thing you'd want is a new chain since 220k miles the original is probably stretched (you can replace this with the case still in the jeep, btw). You are probably missing the pads for the shift forks, little plastic things that get torn up. At that point you are pretty close to the front bearings anyway. rockauto.com has Cloyes chains, and SKF and Timken transfer case overhaul kits. There are other sources depending on budget and parts included, G2 uses Timken bearings for their less expensive kits. I would not buy anything that did not clearly identify the bearing manufacturer.
I don't know the IRO 5.5 kit but looking at the pictures I see it includes a replacement crossmember that appears to bolt up with the LCA brackets. If its a stock job, it will bolt to the transmission directly, and the transfer case does not need to be present. People usually find it helpful to remove the crossmember when pulling the transfer case, so I would expect to separate everything again to reinstall. If you are just doing a Hack and Tap with a chain swap you can do it with everything mounted.
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Ehall thanks for the help. The hack and tap just seems hackish to me. I'm gonna use a shaft. So I guess I'll be rebuilding the case. I have to pull the engine and Trans for my om617 swap so the t case may as well come out.
The instructions for the lift say to remove the cross member (I've only glanced at it) so I'm assuming the LA bracket goes there. So would I have to remove that bracket to reinstall the t case and transmission? I need the lift for the new engine to stay off the front diff. I don't want to disable or remove the lift with the new engine installed. Maybe I'm over complicating things.
also can I install the 8.8 with the t case out or will that make pinion angle hard to set.
Lastly. I'm thinking I'll use a front drive shaft from an auto xj (ice read that it works fine with the 8.8 swap) will I have issues getting the rear end positioned correctly for that shaft length with the t case out?
The instructions for the lift say to remove the cross member (I've only glanced at it) so I'm assuming the LA bracket goes there. So would I have to remove that bracket to reinstall the t case and transmission? I need the lift for the new engine to stay off the front diff. I don't want to disable or remove the lift with the new engine installed. Maybe I'm over complicating things.
also can I install the 8.8 with the t case out or will that make pinion angle hard to set.
Lastly. I'm thinking I'll use a front drive shaft from an auto xj (ice read that it works fine with the 8.8 swap) will I have issues getting the rear end positioned correctly for that shaft length with the t case out?
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- Location
- Southern Maryland
I don't have their kit but I am pretty certain its a three-piece setup where the crossmember bolts to the LCA brackets, so you can drop the middle piece (trans mount) without undoing the suspension (as opposed to one-piece designs where the axle walks off when you drop the trans).
Yeah look at the pics in this thread -- link
Yeah look at the pics in this thread -- link
- Location
- Henderson, NV
Can't say much about the IRO long arm, but if it's like most long arms, they replace the stock cross member. So I would get all the transmission and T case stuff wrapped up before installing the lift.
Also, the front drive shaft idea probably won't work for the amount of lift you're planning on running. I've got 4.5 and mine has less than 1.5 inches of slip left. The 8.8 yoke is further away from the T case than the C8.25. You could always get a front DL and have it Lengthened.
Lastly, installing the 8.8 with out the T case in and the lift installed would make finding your pinion angle very difficult. I'm sure if you took some measurements before you pulled everything you could get it, it would just take a little bit of fore thought.
I would do it in this order.
Drivetrain>lift>axle
The axle can go in at the same time as the lift
Just my .02
Also, the front drive shaft idea probably won't work for the amount of lift you're planning on running. I've got 4.5 and mine has less than 1.5 inches of slip left. The 8.8 yoke is further away from the T case than the C8.25. You could always get a front DL and have it Lengthened.
Lastly, installing the 8.8 with out the T case in and the lift installed would make finding your pinion angle very difficult. I'm sure if you took some measurements before you pulled everything you could get it, it would just take a little bit of fore thought.
I would do it in this order.
Drivetrain>lift>axle
The axle can go in at the same time as the lift
Just my .02
Thanks for the replies. Unfortunately I need the lift for the new engines oil pan (front sump) to clear the front diff. It won't go in at stock height on a 4x4 is my current understanding. So I guess I have to reverse your order jeepedo. Axle - lift - giant pita to get drive train out-engine.
I fabbed up some plates for my rear shackle hangers today. A 3 inch by 1/8 piece of flat stock was a perfect fit between the bumps on the stock piece. Drilled a bunch of rosette holes and welded it up. Connected them to my rear stiffeners and the rear cross member. That should make it substantially stronger. I was gonna put my new springs in but I guess I didn't save the shackle bolts. Anyone know what size they are? I gotta get some new ones. Man this xj is getting spendy. Spent 600 today on a kit to rebuild my t case and a sye and a 8.8 kit. Glad my wife can't see my cc statement!
- Location
- In a strange land
Now you really have me interested in this thread.
arty:Keep the pictures coming.
Whose parts are you using for the conversion or are you fabbing your own?
I am seriously considering the same conversion. I love my Cummins 12V (Dodge dually) and really like the idea of switching my XJ over to a mechanical diesel. Among other things it would get me out of the smog nuisance. The OM617 seems to have a lot going for it.
I thinks it's just cheaper and easier to buy the adapter plate. I'm fabbing mounts. Mercedesdiesel4x4.com I believe has the parts. I'd prefer to put a Cummins 4bt in the xj but it's just way too heavy. The om617 is perfect weight wise. Although a bit weak with some minor mods you can get decent performance from it. And best part is it will run on almost anything and can last over a million miles.
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blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
Looking really good.
I guestimated the bolt length for the spring to shackle connection and went to the hardware store. Only $3.20 each for the bolts in the correct grade so I decided to replace all of them in the rear springs. The shackle bushings are a bit thicker than stock so they're a bit of a bear to get in. But my rear pan is still out so I was able to pull them in with a large c clamp. I highly recommend this method. Gonna try and get a rear end tomorrow.
Engine has to come out soon. The forward weight on the jack stands is making it really sketchy. I put 400 lb of ar 500 body armor plates in the rear to keep the rear down. That's with stands just behind the lca bracket. But no rear weight. It picked the rear off the rear stands at the back of the mid stiffener. If anyone knows a good place to sell a 4.0 I could use the advice
Went to the pick and pull today for an 8.8. They were on sale for $85. Found a decent explorer with wheels on the back cause I didn't wanna clean sand out of everything. Paid the yard $10 to put it on a rack with a forklift. Didn't wanna mess with the leafsprings so I paid them the $25 torch cut fee to get em out of the way. The torch man didn't stop with the springs, he had it on the ground in 5 min and on my trailer in another 5. I tipped him $20. So I got the whole rig for $142. It cost $2 to get into the yard.
The guy working on the rack next to mine said he couldn't believe I paid $25 for the guy to torch it out!!!!!!! I thought it was maybe the best $25 I ever spent. I didn't even put my gloves on or set down my diet coke!!
The guy working on the rack next to mine said he couldn't believe I paid $25 for the guy to torch it out!!!!!!! I thought it was maybe the best $25 I ever spent. I didn't even put my gloves on or set down my diet coke!!
- Location
- Hammertown, USA
I didn't know they had a torch man. I may never take a tool to pick and pull again... 
- Location
- Torrance, CA
I imagine the torch works great! Not sure how the parts would work after though...
You guys sure are quiet here. 2k views and appx 10 responses. That's a half a percent response rate. Well if you half a per centers would chime in again here I'd appreciate it. I've read that the D 30 will take 33s pretty well. If I truss it can I go to 35 and keep a high level of reliability?
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