Broke something, need a quick answer

[LOUD02Special]

So I was trying to remove the two brackets that hold the U-Joint to the rear diff so I could lube the spline into the transfer case, and the first two bolts I tried snapped at the head. I didn't touch the other two on the other side bcause of this happening. Whatever these bolts were, I can't drill them out with what I have. Question is, with that one bracket off, is it safe to drive? I'm not at home, at the parents using their garage, so if I can limp it home 10 miles, I can use my car until I get to it. Thanks a ton for any help.

 

[Shorty]

don't think I'd try it. The U-joint cap that's still being held in place will probably come off the joint and allow the drive shaft to exit stage left.

 

[souske]

Go ahead and snap the other two off if you have to. You will need to try and easy out the two broken studs, then replace the yoke when that doesnt work.

Year/ trans/ transfercase? front locker?

231/no front locker, you can drive it home in 4hi, just keep it under 45 or so.

Wont speak for the 242 as I have never run one.

 

[JJacobs]

Question is, with that one bracket off, is it safe to drive?

Absolutely not. Even removing the rear driveshaft entirely isn't going to work since you still have the slip yoke- unless you can adequately seal up the driveshaft hole from leaking tcase fluid out.

Don't tempt fate with this one.

 

[LOUD02Special]

Well, I smartly walked away before I did any further damage. I tried drilling out the two bolts, but gave up on it. There's still bolt left in each hole so I'm hoping my mechanic can get them out without having to replace the yolk. I'm having it towed there on a flat bed tomorrow. I guess I'll be driving the 300M for a few days... Had my mother give me a ride home, felt like I was 15 or something.

 

[the_weirdo]

231/no front locker, you can drive it home in 4hi, just keep it under 45 or so.

Wont speak for the 242 as I have never run one.

He could do the same thing with the 242 transfer case, just make sure to pull the rear driveshaft and run the transfer case in "Part Time".

 

[robsjeepxj]

Replacing the yoke would be the easiest and cheapest fix. You could have done it yourself, it's just one bolt right in the center of the yoke. Yokes are cheap compared to towing and labor costs.

 

[LOUD02Special]

Replacing the yoke would be the easiest and cheapest fix. You could have done it yourself, it's just one bolt right in the center of the yoke. Yokes are cheap compared to towing and labor costs.

Towing is free. The shop I go to is pretty reasonable, and I don't have time for at least a week to try this again. I work a lot of hours and the schedule always changes.

 

[CamoChero]

This is why its so important to keep a set of left handed drill bits in your tool box... Harbor freight baby

 

[LOUD02Special]

This is why its so important to keep a set of left handed drill bits in your tool box... Harbor freight baby

I'm really regretting not having a set right about now. That and some other small kits for screws/bolts and such.

 

[kastein]

Absolutely not. Even removing the rear driveshaft entirely isn't going to work since you still have the slip yoke- unless you can adequately seal up the driveshaft hole from leaking tcase fluid out.

Don't tempt fate with this one.

IIRC (he didn't list it in this thread though...) LOUD02Special has a 96 or later, so he can drive in 4wd with no rear driveshaft whenever he wants to. Only 95 and earlier style transfer cases will puke their fluid without a rear shaft.

Well, I smartly walked away before I did any further damage. I tried drilling out the two bolts, but gave up on it. There's still bolt left in each hole so I'm hoping my mechanic can get them out without having to replace the yolk. I'm having it towed there on a flat bed tomorrow. I guess I'll be driving the 300M for a few days... Had my mother give me a ride home, felt like I was 15 or something.

You'll also need a crush sleeve iirc, pretty sure the 8.25" uses one.

 

[JJacobs]

IIRC (he didn't list it in this thread though...) LOUD02Special has a 96 or later, so he can drive in 4wd with no rear driveshaft whenever he wants to. Only 95 and earlier style transfer cases will puke their fluid without a rear shaft.


You'll also need a crush sleeve iirc, pretty sure the 8.25" uses one.

That's a possibility, but since the year isn't listed it's hard to say from reading this thread.

An axle with a crush sleeve doesn't need it replaced to change the yoke, by the way.

 

[kastein]

Oh, really? I figured there'd be no good way to properly set the pinion preload without replacing it.

 

[old_man]

It is easier to drill out the yoke and then run ubolts instead. Many do this just for the strength.

 

[Matthew Currie]

Oh, really? I figured there'd be no good way to properly set the pinion preload without replacing it.

This is one of those things that is true in theory, but can usually be gotten around in practice, because by the time you replace the yoke or seal, the bearing has some wear on it, and has probably lost a wee bit of preload. Therefore, it's likely that when install a new pinion or reinstall your old one, you'll be adding a tiny bit of crush when you set the preload.

 

[XJTAO1]

it happened to my friend, He drilled hole slight bigger and die thread tap. Install slight bigger bolts. It works