BRAKE light won't turn off.

[TX_Crash]

I had a wheel cylinder leak out most of my fluid, so my "BRAKE" light came on. I changed everything out, but the light won't turn off. Is there a reset procedure?

 

[joe_peters]

In theory, once the pressure is equalized it should recenter itself.

In theory, not so much in practice. Pull the warning light switch from the proportioning valve. You should be able to see the valve, use a small screwdriver or pick to gently coax it back to center, reinstall the switch. Should work, this was very common on Volvo's in the eighties.

 

[ehall]

The light will go off when the fluid pressure stabilizes. Bleed the brakes, but don't push the pedal all the way down (a small block of wood is good for this). If you floor the pedal the switch will close again and you'll have to normalize pressure again.

 

[Shorty]

if you've bled the brakes (front and rear) and still get the light, it may be stuck in place as JP mentioned.

I've had some luck freeing them with the help of a second person. Have someone repeatedly tap the brake pedal while you rap the proportioning valve with the handle of a screwdriver.

 

[*Jonathan]

Someone can correct me if this is bad advice. My own experience with the brake light that wont go out goes something like this. When I first bought my 97 XJ in '08, the brake light was on so I had the brakes serviced (new pads, rotors, drums, shoes and rear wheels cylinders). The light remained on and I was told that my parking brake cable was just out of alignment. So, I adjusted the cable to spec and the light was still on.

One day, at a stoplight I was just so furious with the brake light that I stomped on the brake pedal REALLY hard (smart right?). I heard a little "pop" noise and the light went out. The brakes have been fine ever since and the light has never returned unless I pulled the parking brake up.

I think I must have equalized the system with the excessive force on the brake pedal.. whether that is the right way or the wrong way, it worked for me.

 

[Shorty]

yup-- pressure was probably equalized to begin with, but you managed to free the pressure differential switch with the extra force. I wouldn't bet on it always working, but in some cases it will.

on a side note, the guy who said your parking brake cable needed adjusting shouldn't be working on cars-- the handle controls the switch, so no matter how the cable is adjusted, if the handle is down the light should be off.

 

[ehall]

the handle switch and the pressure switch are on the same circuit, easy test is disconnect the pressure switch--if the light goes out the pressure switch is closed, but if the stays on the the handle switch is closed

 

[kastein]

Someone can correct me if this is bad advice. My own experience with the brake light that wont go out goes something like this. When I first bought my 97 XJ in '08, the brake light was on so I had the brakes serviced (new pads, rotors, drums, shoes and rear wheels cylinders). The light remained on and I was told that my parking brake cable was just out of alignment. So, I adjusted the cable to spec and the light was still on.

One day, at a stoplight I was just so furious with the brake light that I stomped on the brake pedal REALLY hard (smart right?). I heard a little "pop" noise and the light went out. The brakes have been fine ever since and the light has never returned unless I pulled the parking brake up.

I think I must have equalized the system with the excessive force on the brake pedal.. whether that is the right way or the wrong way, it worked for me.

Yep, same. I actually did a double take when it turned off, it was an MJ with the standard brake system issues and I'd been driving it that way for a few months, was the first time I'd ever seen it without the brake light turned on.

You should stomp real hard on the pedal after repairing lines and bleeding the brakes anyways to test for leaks, so this is the method I would use. I would do it in your driveway or a large parking lot not at a stop light though!

 

[TX_Crash]

Wow, Thanx guys.

 

[JJacobs]

I'll usually just crack a front caliper bleeder with somebody pressing on the pedal and that moves the valve back to the neutral position.