Blown Stroker - Megasquirt - AEM

XJCasper said:
Where are you finding the best prices?
Click to expand...

I don't know if they are the best prices to be found now, but I ended up paying $315 for the FIC to performance-mania2000 (e-bay vendor),
$155 for the harness to kdperformance (e-bay vendor) and $165 to rtperformance118 (e-bay vendor) for a AEM wideband guage UGEO controller. These prices include shipping.

FNF
 
H2M Racing said:
Hi!
Im planning a GT30 turbo build om my -89 Comanche.

I have been trying too figure out this for a few years ago and gave up.

Just come to the same conclusion the 60-2-2-2 is'nt possible to use for any standalone aftermarket ecu. And the only thing the distributor does is to tell the ecu when cylinder 1 is in phase for geting fuel.

Im trying to find the easyest way to do this and after a few days reading I thought that a piggy back actualy would be the way out.
Still unsure if it would work now when you mention that the crank is VR and the distributor is hall. For example the AEM F/IC can not use these at the same time?
When looking at the AEM FIC wiring diagram for jeep wrangler 2007.
They have written that HALL and VR not can be used at the same time.

The only option sems to be is to use a trigger wheel 60-2 and go for MS2. (Or any other stand alone)

If i'll do that im tempted to get rid of the distributor and go for coil on plug too.
Know any good way to plug the distributor hole?

And where did you see that neat MS install in the bendix case?

december%2B06%2B076.jpg

Regards Henrik
Click to expand...

MS2 should work with a 66-2-2-2 wheel, even if it's not currently an option. I looked at the code a couple days ago and with a little tweaking I'm very confident it'll work with zero changes made to the stock harness. I ordered some parts to test my theory out. I think it'd be great for you performance Renix guys.

Another sure-fire option is to swap the distributor out for something with a 6 window, then it's easy as pie.

Piggybacks are awesome for the Chrysler ECU'd 4.0s. They have more stuff tied into them, and for the OBDII models it's essential to retain for anybody who needs to pass plug-in emissions checks. But for the Renix rigs, it's not really necessary IMO.

You can't do COP without a cam sync signal, which is what the distributor currently does. So what you'd have to do is swap the distributor out for a late model cam sensor which I believe simply replaces the distributor. That's also a good way to plug the hole :-)

I found the fancy Bendix case mod on the Megasquirt forum. Here is a link. What impressed me is just how many different systems use the same 35-pin connector!

http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=104&t=36178



H2M Racing said:
Anyone know if the 4.0 HO 91-95 has another trigger pattern then the Renix?
Click to expand...

It's different, but no more useful. It's like an 18-2-2-2 or something strange.
 
Ok thanks for the info.
Would be grate if it was possible to do a plug n play for the renix and keep the option to have sequiential EFI with the MS3 board.

I saw that the guy with the renix case also was asking the developer to ad the 66-2-2-2 wheel for hes Renault V6 Alpine.

I think I'll have to start looking for a cam sensor from a -00 cherokee or a wrangler.
But they aint common here.

Would an option be (if we get the 66-2-2-2 pattern into the code) to use the the sync sensor we alredy have? It tells when cylinder 1 is in power stroke.

And if using seqiuntial COP just leave the distributor cap on as a dust shield.
 
H2M Racing said:
Ok thanks for the info.
Would be grate if it was possible to do a plug n play for the renix and keep the option to have sequiential EFI with the MS3 board.

I saw that the guy with the renix case also was asking the developer to ad the 66-2-2-2 wheel for hes Renault V6 Alpine.

I think I'll have to start looking for a cam sensor from a -00 cherokee or a wrangler.
But they aint common here.

Would an option be (if we get the 66-2-2-2 pattern into the code) to use the the sync sensor we alredy have? It tells when cylinder 1 is in power stroke.

And if using seqiuntial COP just leave the distributor cap on as a dust shield.
Click to expand...

I don't see why somebody couldn't use the stock renix sync sensor. I'll play with it once I get the rest of my hardware.
 
Boostwerks.com said:
For future reference for those of you who are thinking about the AEM FIC here's my exact pinout:

ECU pin location - Function
A2: Fused Ignition switch output (pos on)
A6: Ground
A8: Crankshaft position sensor signal (Hall Effect)
A18: Camshaft Position sensor signal (Hall Effect)
A23: Throttle position sensor signal
A24: Upstream O2
A25: Downstream O2
A27: MAP sensor signal
A32: Ground

B4: No. 1 Injector
B5: No. 3 Injector
B6: No. 5 Injector
B12: No. 6 Injector
B15: No. 2 Injector
B16: No. 4 Injector

I can't verify the pinout for other various years, but this is the exact pinout for my 99. Please don't assume it's the same for yours. I can't speak for the renix versions, but all HO Jeeps use Hall Effect for both crank and cam. Don't beleive me, read your FSM. :read:

Any other questions? :dunno:
Click to expand...

Well I'm finally back on this and am down to the O2-1 and O2-2 wires. AEM is not too clear on whether or not to hook these up and what goes where. Bryson, can you give me any clarification? What did you do on your 99?

Thanks FNF
 
The O2-1 is your upstream 02 and the 02-2 is the downstream O2. The pinout I listed above should be the exact same for your application. Just make sure to install the resistors per the instructions so you can adjust open loop AFR's without getting a code.

I'd also reccomend to double check that the correct connection has been used (cut or tap). I remember I accidentlly cut an input wire that was supposed to just be a tap. Much eaisier to fix now. :)
 
Boostwerks.com said:
The O2-1 is your upstream 02 and the 02-2 is the downstream O2. The pinout I listed above should be the exact same for your application. Just make sure to install the resistors per the instructions so you can adjust open loop AFR's without getting a code.

I'd also reccomend to double check that the correct connection has been used (cut or tap). I remember I accidentlly cut an input wire that was supposed to just be a tap. Much eaisier to fix now. :)
Click to expand...

One more question, should the AEM UGEO replace the upstream sensor or be installed independently?

FNF
 
We don't want that!!

Really, thanks for all your input. It is what makes NAXJA great. If I can ever do anything for you (which I doubt) I'll be there.

FNF
 
So a month and a day ago I ordered the AEM 30-1913 from UltraRev on eBay($315) and it finally showed up today--apparently AEM was on major backorder. I sold the Unichip a couple weeks ago and essentially got $315 after shipping costs but had to shell out an additional $145 to get the 30-2984 harness so I don't have to chop up the stock one. I also have a new E420 Thinkpad on the way as well(8 yo compaq laptop died 2 weeks ago). Can't wait to get her dialed in and offset the o2 in CL so my light pinging b/t 2.2-3K will go away.
 
Last edited:
gradon said:
So a month and a day ago I ordered the AEM 30-1913 from UltraRev on eBay($315) and it finally showed up today--apparently AEM was on major backorder. I sold the Unichip a couple weeks ago and essentially got $315 after shipping costs but had to shell out an additional $145 to get the 30-2984 harness so I don't have to chop up the stock one. I also have a new E420 Thinkpad on the way as well(8 yo compaq laptop died 2 weeks ago). Can't wait to get her dialed in and offset the o2 in CL so my light pinging b/t 2.2-3K will go away.
Click to expand...

:cheers:

LMK if you have any questions.
 
Mine has been on a slow burn for a while. I had it up and runnning for about 2 miniutes and it shut down. I assumed it was a ECM problem. I got all of the AEM goodies and still was getting no where. I shot a little starting fluid in and it would run on the fluid so I pulled the fuel line and nada. Even when I cranked the engine over it would not pump any fuel.
In between building the front axle and fighting a gal bladder problem, I have been trying to find out if it is the pump or wiring. After I get that figured out I hope it will start right off and let me play with tuning.
To bad I will problably be selling it off before I get a chance to take it out and play with it.

FNF
 
So I have mine wired save for the o2 wires. The Jeep works w/ the bypass in. You used a 1K ohm resistor for both o2 sensors or just the upstream one(seems on the AEM forum that some apps need different values)? It allows you to control closed loop afrs w/o the pcm compensating(you meant that above).
 
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