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Blocks?
- Thread starter mylucky24
- Start date
IcedXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Spokane Washington
dont do 3" blocks. That is not good for the leafs...do a 1-2" block and a shackle setup.
- Location
- Terra Firma
Bad.
Blocks cause axle wrap. This can result in squirrelly handling, especially under hard acceleration and hard braking, and it also accelerates fatiguing of the springs.
Blocks cause axle wrap. This can result in squirrelly handling, especially under hard acceleration and hard braking, and it also accelerates fatiguing of the springs.
IcedXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Spokane Washington
I think we are trying to tell you something. Shackles over blocks any day. why not do a bastard pack it is cheap as well and will get 4.5" of lift and if you ant more you can add shackles. or do some bastard pack work with only adding a few leafs...tons of options but avoid the blocks.
balloo93
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Austin, Tx
I agree with all the other guys. the XJ packs are a lot softer than other truck packs. So when your buddies with GMC or Ford pick ups say "Don't listen to them, I have been running 5" of blocks for years with no problems...." It's because those trucks use heavy springs than the XJ.
- Location
- Bakersfield, CA
robz95xj said:
So are long arms with mounts that hang below the frame, yet many do it. So are 33's on a D35, yet many people do it. So are t-case drops rather than an SYE, yet many people do it.
Too much block is bad, and 3" is too much. Stiffer, lifted springs can handle blocks better than stock springs. Blocks add leverage to the twisting forces on the axle that cause spring wrap, and too much spring wrap can break the pinion yoke and will wear the springs out quickly. Simply saying blocks are bad is not correct, blocks are bad in excess, but can work very well in moderation when considered with other rear suspension components. A 1" block to level things out is fine.
I run 2.25" blocks and have for many years. I have a 9 leaf spring pack that resists axle wrap, and I have a traction bar, so for me it works well. I like the slightly flatter spring I get at 7.5" of lift with the couple inches of block, and I have also taken care of the spring wrap issue with a traction bar.
scorpio_vette
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Milwaukee Wisconsin
i have a question. some of you are saying that 3" is to much. what is the difference between using a 1", 2" or a 3" block. you still have the same amount of surface contact between the block and the springs as you would between the perch and the springs. so how does that weaken them???
i'm not being a smart ass or attacking. i really don't understand. i know i'm probably overlooking something, but hopefully somebody can clear that up.
i'm not being a smart ass or attacking. i really don't understand. i know i'm probably overlooking something, but hopefully somebody can clear that up.
DubaiXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- South Africa
The taller the blocks the greater the leverage and thus the more (risk of) axle wrap. Also, the additional leverage puts undue stress on your U-bolts and perches.
- Location
- Terra Firma
Axle tube diameters vary slightly depending on the axle, but for simplicity assume the tube has an outside diameter (OD) of 3". Half of that is 1-1/2". Add a half inch for the depth of the perch (again an approximation) and you have a distance of 2" from axle centerline to spring surface.
When your wheels/tires apply traction to the ground and want to rotate forward, the axle tube tries to rotate in the opposite direction. The springs have to resist that rotation, and that 2" dimension is the lever arm.
Now add a 3" block, and you have more than doubled the leverage (150% increase, in fact, or 2-1/2 times) that the axle exerts on the springs. It has nothing to do with surface contact area. It's all about leverage.
When your wheels/tires apply traction to the ground and want to rotate forward, the axle tube tries to rotate in the opposite direction. The springs have to resist that rotation, and that 2" dimension is the lever arm.
Now add a 3" block, and you have more than doubled the leverage (150% increase, in fact, or 2-1/2 times) that the axle exerts on the springs. It has nothing to do with surface contact area. It's all about leverage.
aparke4
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Atlanta, Ga
if running blocks 2 inch max...if you dont want em try the block eliminators that weld on...i think tnt makes em...3 inch blocks are scary on a cherokee...seen it in person and seen it fail in person...whats the scariest is double stacked blocks! :shiver:
scorpio_vette
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Milwaukee Wisconsin
i see......thanks. i personally would never use blocks, but that's just cause i think they look ugly and don't help improve flex, just height.
scorpio_vette said:
:bs:
With 8-9" of lift a 1.5" block is better. Leafs flex better when they are flat(ter). In order to get 9" of lift with leaf only, you would need a crazy arc to the leaf that would not flex at all.
I am that guy with 8-9" of lift. I have 1.5" lift shacles, 1.5" block, and 5.5" leafs. I can flex really well now.
I have tried 8" leafs and I couldnt get them to budge at even with a fok lift!
BUT with 3" lift, I would suggest a 1" block and a 2" shackle. It would be a LOT better than 3" blocks in your application.
www.tntcustoms.com Checkthe U-bolt eliminator. It lifts up to 1.5" without the negatives of blocks.
Chris
Chris
