Best Year of Jeep Cherokee XJ
- Thread starter QuillsXJ
- Start date
Ewenm
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Gold Coast Australia
i love my '94 limited, old world charm with its fake wood dash and 3 spoke steering wheel
mine is metalic dark blue with camel leather interior, 3.5 inches lift and 31 inch tyres on 15x8 dick cepec rims i could not be happier ( ok yes i will be when the 8.25 rear goes in and the front is re geared to suit (4.11))
mine is metalic dark blue with camel leather interior, 3.5 inches lift and 31 inch tyres on 15x8 dick cepec rims i could not be happier ( ok yes i will be when the 8.25 rear goes in and the front is re geared to suit (4.11))
abieex1
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- akron ohio
build date will be on the tag on the drivers door!
AwesomeXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Vancouver WA.
It's all subjective but I prefered the 87 xj Wagoneer limited I had last year. D44 rear and d35 front. 4.0 auto, 5spd. transfercase. 2h,4h Lock,4h,4L lock,4L. It was so much better than the 85 I have now.....
TheSandman
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Richmond, VA
I thought the 91's were the worst year because of the renix?
I've also heard from others 99 was the best year
I've also heard from others 99 was the best year
- Location
- Seattle, WA
Agreed - but I don't mind ABS. It's getting chucked when I throw out the D35 anyway.
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
91 was the first year of the HO setup and OBD II iirc.
Also, just want to clarify what I said about the d35/ABS issue. Getting an XJ without ABS doesn't guarantee an 8.25/44 rear axle - it just means you MIGHT not have one, instead of surely getting a d35. It's really not that huge a deal anyways, a d35 driveshaft is about an inch longer than an 8.25/44 one and all you need to swap to an 8.25 is to pick one up at the junkyard and buy some new U-bolts, and a driveshaft if you intend to leave it at stock height. If you're going to lift it the extra length from the d35 driveshaft can be useful. The whole swap might cost 150 to 170 bucks if you pick the 8.25 up at a you-pull-it, really not a big deal at all.
Also, just want to clarify what I said about the d35/ABS issue. Getting an XJ without ABS doesn't guarantee an 8.25/44 rear axle - it just means you MIGHT not have one, instead of surely getting a d35. It's really not that huge a deal anyways, a d35 driveshaft is about an inch longer than an 8.25/44 one and all you need to swap to an 8.25 is to pick one up at the junkyard and buy some new U-bolts, and a driveshaft if you intend to leave it at stock height. If you're going to lift it the extra length from the d35 driveshaft can be useful. The whole swap might cost 150 to 170 bucks if you pick the 8.25 up at a you-pull-it, really not a big deal at all.
junglejuice
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Brisbane, Australia
- Location
- Camden, SC
91-95 IMHO but 95 is a good canidate BC of what Mac "wheeling tons" giver said....
- Location
- Columbus, In
My '97 was a good rig too. It wasn't very big but It got me where i wanted to go and never complained about it!
thechief86
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- White House, TN
i liked my 87, but i swapped in a 97 drivetrain from a wrangler on that one. i like my 89 xj wagoneer, because the interior is super nice, and it looks great with the woodgrain. i'm prolly gonna swap the motor soon in favor of a 95 or so H.O., just cuz the renix isn't the most powerful motor, and this one has 283,000 miles on it.
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
I'm not sure, but almost everyone agrees it does - my suspicion is that it puts the tailshaft bearings further from the U-joint and thus any imbalance has more leverage on them. I imagine the old tail housing with the seal around the slip yoke must help dampen vibrations slightly as well. Someone with more driveline knowledge than I should probably answer this one, really.
- Location
- NE Indiana
a d35 front? i think you mean d30 front...
91 was the first year of the HO, but 96 was the first year of OBD II...
I'm not really sure why that is. the biggest change for the transfer case was the rear output seal. 95 and earlier was a seal that sealed with the rear driveshaft, you take it out and it leaks. 96 and later used a seal that sealed whether or not the rear driveshaft was in. the 96 and later is what was used in the 97+ TJs...
i just extended the stock driveshaft by having it retubed on both my 95 and 96 prior to sye's on both and didn't have any vibes up to and past 4 inches...
mac 'work to wheel' gyvr
- Location
- Camden, SC
On the newer Tcases: They basically took the tail cone off. The tail cone, even though it just held the seal, wold also kepe the slip yoke from slaping or wobbling when it was not fully engaged.
lorax81
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- St. Helens Orrygun
IMO renix jeep with no power options and with an OBD1 motor. The renix system is simpler tougher and can be diagnosed with a multimeter. and parts are pretty cheap for them at the jy.
J
J
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
:doh: mistype. I knew I screwed something up, for some reason I just typed OBD II instead of OBD I automatically.
jeeperjohn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Temecula, CA
I say 92-95 with the 96-up brake booster installed.
- Location
- NE Indiana
big brake booster was available in 95 models...
mac 'wealth of worthless 91 to 96 XJ knowledge' gyvr
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