best way to mount a custom bumper?

XJFisher

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Colorado
howdy, so i am making a rear bumper and i dont know how to mount it safely to my jeep cause of the uni body.. what a couple of people have told me to do is cut the bolt patter out of the old bumper and weld a peace of steal there, yes that will work. but i would like to have recovery points on it and if i do that it would twist my frame if i pull to hard. is there any other ways besides bracing the the frame rails?
Thanks
 
sneek up on it...shhhhhhh.




JK! I used 14 bolts for the rear bumper including the 8 factory bumper bolt locations and 6 tow hitch bolt locations.
 
I want to build on my original response to you: Part of my bumper build included a new rear crossmember in order to tie both rails together better and cause both sides to work together in recovery. My crossmember piggybacks the factory crossmember.

Welding is a great way to go. I am still learning to weld and when satisfied my skills are up to par, will weld instead of bolt components such as rear bumper/crossmember to the xj 'frame'.

In my original response my intention was to indicate that more and extended connection is appropriate/better. And as XJRanger says "weld it to the frame rails. a lot of places."
 


So many things wrong with that setup

-1/8" is too thin for anything bumper related
-he cut one side of each tube in half just to clear the shackle bolt
-doesnt tie into all of the holes that even factory nutstrips do
-he used metric 8.8 bolts, which are equivalent to regular Grade 5 bolts


the overall design is good, it just needs to be done with beefier materails and hardware
 
So many things wrong with that setup

-1/8" is too thin for anything bumper related
-he cut one side of each tube in half just to clear the shackle bolt
-doesnt tie into all of the holes that even factory nutstrips do
-he used metric 8.8 bolts, which are equivalent to regular Grade 5 bolts


the overall design is good, it just needs to be done with beefier materails and hardware

Ok, do it similar to what DanMan did.
 
-1/8" is too thin for anything bumper related
Yes and no. If I did it again, the main tube and brackets would have all been 3/16". For the side pieces and little appearance factors, 3/16's would have just add more unwanted weight.

-he cut one side of each tube in half just to clear the shackle bolt
I don't see anything wrong with this? Yes there are other ways to go about it. However, most people just use a flat strip. A box tube with a slit in it will still be MUCH stronger than just a straight flat piece of steel.

-doesnt tie into all of the holes that even factory nutstrips do
Correct. Left one out. For my application it's never been an issue.

-he used metric 8.8 bolts, which are equivalent to regular Grade 5 bolts
Acutally it's 350psi stronger than a grade 5, but yes, correct. Tractor supply didn't have metric 10.9's so I had to order them from McMaster Carr. They have since been swapped.

All in all, I did a lot of things that could/should have been done a different way, but the carrier has yet to fail me in any category. Whether it's towing, recovery, convenience, or rigidity. It all comes down to your application. My jeep is not a 6000lb fully armored rig that will be winched up 45 degree rock faces at Moab. This is my daily driver that I wanted to add a sturdy tire re-locator to. And in that aspect, it has worked perfect.

That being said, if you're building a 6000lb armored Moab monster, don't follow my thread. Except maybe the spindle idea :) I still have yet to see a more captured setup.
 
Back
Top