best setup for rausch creek

[bandit455]

hey guys, i am going to be buying a cherokee within the next six months as a first truck. I was wondering setups you guys would suggest that would be fairly streetable yet still be able to do most of the trails at rausch creek. Pic's of setups would be great.
Questions
should i go for 33's or 35's
i am planning on getting a rear locker but do i need a front locker
stick or auto, i really want a stick but is the auto better offroad
6.5" rustys or 6.5" rough country

thanks

 

[pierceME311]

Budjet, capability and personal prefrence all factor into each persons rig. I'll be the first to advise you to use the SEARCH feature. There is also a thread dedicated to nothing but XJ pictures. Your perticular question has been asked and answered many, many times over.

Forget about Rusty's or rough country, cause once you start wheeling you'll realize brands like RE and BDS are far superior for the little bit extra money up front, it will save you in the long run, I personaly started on a 4.5" rusty's and have almost completely converted to RE products.

BTW: Welcome to the forum!

 

[bandit455]

thanks
let me rephrase my origional question:
what are most people running on their rigs that primarily wheel at rausch creek
i do not want to waste money on something that i will not need
thanks again

 

[ktm racer 419]

a decent 35's-37'' mud/rock tire
longarms 4-6" lift
locked front and rear
skid plates everywhere.
beefy steering
axles to hold up to the tires.

that will get you through all the blacks with little fuss and many reds.

 

[whatevah]

33s with lockers will give you the most fun... 35s will make the easier trails less exciting. But with 33s you can run most of the Blues without being too bored and still have plenty of tire for the blacks. sheesh, I run blacks with my 31s! 33s with lockers and good skids will do well, If you want to work more on the high blacks and reds, then 35s and a long-arm kit would be the better option but you'll need reinforced everything now (like ktm said)

 

[Backroads]

Agreed to go with RE products off the bat. Its a little more of an initial investment but worth it to get full packs and do it once and right. I might reconsider the 6.5" as a very first lift, others might dissagree. But until youve gone in and actually done the lift and are familiar with everything (which I myself and still learning) it makes life a lot easier to start a LITTLE smaller and deal with the many other things/problems that arise..IE driveshaft angles for one major component.

 

[bandit455]

thanks guys
as far as lifts go I need to stay with short arms since I cant weld
will i be able to fit 35's on the 4.5" re kit and run rusty's new flexy flares. since im in the suburbs im gonna need to keep some flares
As far as a front locker, do you need to buy the warn hub system?

 

[Backroads]

You probably could, but the bigger the tire on that size lift (granted its gonna get you more than 4.5") the less flex you will have before rubbing. I'd say you will probably need to cover up those tires some. Cops are ruthless in glenmoore haha!!! Sorry cant help with lockers, dont know a think about them myself

 

[MrShaft696]

33s with lockers will give you the most fun... 35s will make the easier trails less exciting. But with 33s you can run most of the Blues without being too bored and still have plenty of tire for the blacks. sheesh, I run blacks with my 31s! 33s with lockers and good skids will do well, If you want to work more on the high blacks and reds, then 35s and a long-arm kit would be the better option but you'll need reinforced everything now (like ktm said)

I agree with Jerry, just because if once you get too big the blue & other trails that make up the majority of the park get too easy. It still comes down to preference and driveability, so good luck. I find with my 31s I can enjoy a large part of the network of trails without too much issue, but have to back out on the big rocks.

 

[bandit455]

thanks guys
I think im gonna stick with 33's
does anyone know wether i need to buy front warn hubs to run a front locker

 

[WVUwheeler]

you dont need warn front hubs to run a front locker. i would suggest sticking to 33's. I have 35's and i still have some rub in off camber situations with trimming and i am sitting at 6.5. Just so you know there are bolt on long arm kits out there. I would look into them or atleast drop brackets for you short arms. If you plan on lifting that much you will prob need a SYE so just a heads up there aswell.

 

[ktm racer 419]

^^ bumpstops

 

[whatevah]

yeah... bumpstops would be cool. sadly, I'm using my shocks as my bumpstops. I really need to take care of that with some hockey pucks and proper length shocks. my down travel is really limited right now, although the uptravel is actually perfect aside from the shocks overcompressing.

just ran RC today, 33s are definately my recommended tire size. oh, and selectable lockers, so you can still have fun on the low Blue trails without it being too easy.

 

[Andy in Pa.]

Please define "fairly streetable"....does this mean your just driving it to the trails on the weekends, or driving it everyday back and forth to work, and then driving it to the trails on the weekend....

No, you do not need the Warn Hub kit to run a front locker, you don't really even need a front locker for a while. You can run most of the trails in RC on 33's, a rear locker and 4.56 gears.

I don't know your experience level with wheeling/rock crawling, but as you start wanting to try something harder, then put a selectable locker in the front. I run ARB's in both of my Jeeps (XJ and MJ) front axles and have had no problems with either of them.

As for stick or auto, it takes lots of practice to become good at driving a stick in the rocks, but those that do wouldn't have it any other way. Like someone else said, its personal preference.

 

[bandit455]

by farily streetable i mean street legal in pennsylvania without any issues
and i know that there are boltin longarm kits but my budget is kinda forcing me to stay in the 1000-1200 dollar range so i can do an sye and gears and lockers while still saving money for bumpers.

 

[CheapXJ]

you can run most the trails at rausch w/ a stock XJ minus swaybars, aired down and lots of skinny pedal.

unless you care about driving it home.

but seriously, 33s + 4" lift and you can go anywhere.

go any bigger than that, and you're looking at bumper height issues.

if the tires rub, cut off or beat out of the way the crap they rub on.

ADDING LIFT DOES NOT MAKE TIRES FIT, TRIMMING AND BUMPSTOPS DO!

I used to run 36s on 3.5", but there's more room to cut a 2-door XJ (tubbed)

and autos are better because you can then beat the floor in to accomodate larger tires.

 

[bandit455]

thanks for all the help guys