• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Best of Craigslist

DigJeepsBrah said:
I'm also reading that I can source 4:10 gears from 4 cylinder xjs? That sounds like a nice option for when I bump up an inch in tire size. Could anyone explain a little more?
Click to expand...
Typically, a four cylinder XJ with a 5-speed manual transmission will have either 3.73:1, or 4.10:1 gear ratios. You need to make sure of what is inside before you buy it.
 
in4aride said:
what locker you want to run?
and yes an 8.25 is plenty strong. Beat the piss out of mine and it's under another jeep now.
Click to expand...

I need like the official locker 101 rundown. I've never used any kind of locker. In my mind the idea of a cable activated locker sounds like it would be pretty cost effective and pretty bullet proof. But I don't know. I like inexpensive things that are durable. I don't need fancy push button anything or complicated plumbing.
 
cable actuated lockers do make that mental impression, but most folks experiences with them are the opposite -- high priced to start with, and locating the cable so that it both works and doesn't get cooked by exhaust is a PITA -- I don't think OX makes an 8.25, but I could be wrong.

I'll let someone else expand on what else is available for an 8.25, since I've never run one, but I know you can get ARB and Aussie for them, and pretty sure Eaton makes an e-locker... :dunno: If you want a selectable, its going to be plumbing or a button, though.
 
Loved my no-slip in the 8.25. Quiet, reliable, and worked when I stepped on the throttle.
Others will prefer the ARB and such because of the ability to turn off and you cant argue how nice that is. I just like simple crap that I cant wire wrong or that could fail when I needed the locker engaged.
 
DigJeepsBrah said:
I need like the official locker 101 rundown. I've never used any kind of locker. In my mind the idea of a cable activated locker sounds like it would be pretty cost effective and pretty bullet proof. But I don't know. I like inexpensive things that are durable. I don't need fancy push button anything or complicated plumbing.
Click to expand...


Mod tech. Search button. Read. All the answers are there.
 
in4aride said:
Mod tech. Search button. Read. All the answers are there.
Click to expand...

Well now I'm just as back and forth as every OP in the threads I searched.

How bad are lunchbox lockers in the snow? If my old lady needed to drive from Littleton to Golden on C470 in a snowstorm that was too bad to drive her AWD BMW in, would she need new drawers when she got to work? Would she even make it there? Keep in mind we haven't had a snowstorm that bad this winter at all yet.

If I was going to be honest I think I'd do a selectable ARB in the D30 upfront.

On the cheap it sounds like I'd do an Aussie up front and leave what seems to me that I have a true trac in my 35 I'd just leave it "open"

I guess the real answer is that the Eaton E-Lockers and the ARB's are the way to go..

If it's going to be driven on the road at all it seems like a selectable locker is preferable, and I drive it to trails. I wish I could actually drive both types in several different conditions before making a decision.

What do people here SEEM to have good luck with?

If I went lunchbox's Aussie's seem like the first choice. They can't keep them in stock for a reason.

But damn 4x the price for an ARB...

Seems to me the intelligent way to do this is bite the bullet and do the ARB up front and leave the rear open for now.

I think I'm going to try my damndest to just find an 87-89 "Tow Package" XJ with the D44 rear and just build that axle right and keep my D35 to throw back under it if I ever sell it.

Sorry, this is all psychobabble at this point. Thinking out loud.

But I'm settled. Selectable in the D30.

Eaton or ARB?

OX is right out, the cables seem jenky.
 
I'd love an ARB, but I don't love the 4 figure price tag. Aussies and other auto lockers are more my level.

My front aussie has done everything I asked it to and more... I certainly never asked to break axleshafts and it does that for me every time I do something stupid!
 
I DD'd mine with lunchbox front and rear. Its not bad. I actually liked it. But I also drive aggressive.
if you are going to selectable do it rear. Front you won't notice at speed or in 2wd. Rear you'll always notice.
the powertrax no slip was way better than Aussie for smoothness and quiet.
 
kastein said:
I'd love an ARB, but I don't love the 4 figure price tag. Aussies and other auto lockers are more my level.

My front aussie has done everything I asked it to and more... I certainly never asked to break axleshafts and it does that for me every time I do something stupid!
Click to expand...

Isn't there a chromoly axleshaft upgrade to be done then? How big of tires are you running? Or do you mean stupid like letting your front end bounce?

in4aride said:
I DD'd mine with lunchbox front and rear. Its not bad. I actually liked it. But I also drive aggressive.
if you are going to selectable do it rear. Front you won't notice at speed or in 2wd. Rear you'll always notice.
the powertrax no slip was way better than Aussie for smoothness and quiet.
Click to expand...

I drive aggressive as well. My worry is my lady. I'm sure I'd be fine driving a locked rig in the snow cause I drift around everything anyway. But if she had to fight it to keep it in a straight line or stay into the throttle to make a turn to correct the understeer she'd probly freak out.

Unless you lucked out and found a woman that knows how to steer with the rear wheels... LoL
 
Last edited:
tide psi and tread design also make a difference driving locked. Be it dry or wet.

ya need time behind the wheel of an auto locker to see what's up.
 
jimgrms said:
Had a no slip rear on my xj ,hardly knew it was there and it was a dd ,
Click to expand...

I gotta do the front first. Rear at the moment requires axle swap for a locker unfortunately. LoL

and I see California, I've got to think a locked rear in California is pretty much a non-issue.

in4aride said:
tide psi and tread design also make a difference driving locked. Be it dry or wet.

ya need time behind the wheel of an auto locker to see what's up.
Click to expand...

So what you're telling me is you're inviting me to the springs to see what's up with those auto lockers? :wave:
 
DigJeepsBrah said:
Isn't there a chromoly axleshaft upgrade to be done then? How big of tires are you running? Or do you mean stupid like letting your front end bounce?
Click to expand...
I got a set of alloys for it because they came with a free 30 from a friend for less than a junkyard 30 with stock shafts would have cost me. :party:

No chromolys, I have a kingpin 60 waiting in the wings and refuse to dump money into my 30 because I'm too good at breaking it and know I won't make my money back on it.

As for bouncing... yeah somewhat. Shitty gearing, allterrains, and muddy rocks mean I have to throttle through a lot of things I could crawl otherwise.
 
Not Craigslist but one helluva nice (and over priced) MJ......

http://comancheclub.com/topic/37739-selling-my-mj-washington-state/


2013-01-05_15-13-19_241.jpg


2013-01-05_15-13-31_640.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

YELLAHEEP
Ok...... how NOT to build a Truggy.......
2 3
Replies
41
Views
4K
YELLAHEEP
YELLAHEEP
B
Lots Of Parts
Replies
13
Views
1K
camarors8992
camarors8992
Back
Top