Best draglink/tierod unit for stock position?

[RCP Phx]

Thanks for the input. Does anyone know why the drag link end is fixed? It looks like some fab work could yield a replaceable unit. I am surprised that none of our fab artists have tried this.

Because the shape of the drag link would cause the the pass side tre to roll and loosen up.

 

[kastein]

I wouldn't bother because it would probably be cheaper to get a couple feet of DOM and have the ends tapped than it would be to have the end of a zj tie rod turned down and cut with the right threads.

 

[RWKHausSupply]

Sorry double post dur to smart(or dumb) phone connection issues

 

[rockclimber]

Hyrdo assist + inverted Y steering = not very good at all...

this kit is plenty strong enough to handle it.... the Currie TRE's are more than capable of that. I have seen (online of course) a few TJ's set up like this that rule the rocks. of course you have to get creative with the mounting, but thats half the fun

Because the shape of the drag link would cause the the pass side tre to roll and loosen up.

not if you use clamp style instead of jam nuts.

 

[RWKHausSupply]

this kit is plenty strong enough to handle it.... the Currie TRE's are more than capable of that. I have seen (online of course) a few TJ's set up like this that rule the rocks. of course you have to get creative with the mounting, but thats half the fun
.

I guess you have to really understand the physics and design of the stock Inv Y and how a hydro assist will negitively effect it.

 

[sunburned]

this kit is plenty strong enough to handle it.... the Currie TRE's are more than capable of that. I have seen (online of course) a few TJ's set up like this that rule the rocks. of course you have to get creative with the mounting, but thats half the fun

Think of the geometry of the steering. Usually when people run hydro-assist, they have the ram connected to a tie rod that is perfectly horizontal. The ram is parallel to it and everything works out. Plus the tie rod is usually run knuckle to knuckle, so all the force is on the two tie rod ends directly into the knuckles.

Now lets put that tie rod at an angle. The ram is going to be pushing it horizontal, but some of that force might go towards rolling the tie rod or putting forces on the TRE's that aren't within their design. Plus now the tie rod is connected to the drag link witha TRE instead of to the knuckle. Now you're putting all sorts of weird angular forces on the DL as well. I'd say you'd waste those TRE's in the whole system pretty quickly.

If you are running a big enough setup for hydro-assist, I'd say you shouldn't have a stock style steering setup anymore.

 

[rockclimber]

Think of the geometry of the steering. Usually when people run hydro-assist, they have the ram connected to a tie rod that is perfectly horizontal. The ram is parallel to it and everything works out. Plus the tie rod is usually run knuckle to knuckle, so all the force is on the two tie rod ends directly into the knuckles.

Now lets put that tie rod at an angle. The ram is going to be pushing it horizontal, but some of that force might go towards rolling the tie rod or putting forces on the TRE's that aren't within their design. Plus now the tie rod is connected to the drag link witha TRE instead of to the knuckle. Now you're putting all sorts of weird angular forces on the DL as well. I'd say you'd waste those TRE's in the whole system pretty quickly.

If you are running a big enough setup for hydro-assist, I'd say you shouldn't have a stock style steering setup anymore.

people don't always run hydro assist on the tie rod. it works if you run it on the drag link similar to how the stock steering stabilizer is mounted.

in order to do that though you need to seriously beef your track bar mount to handle all that stress.

but if you set up the hydro assist on the tie-rod, as long as you mount the ram so that it is in a straight line from knuckle to knuckle regardless of the shape of the tie-rod it will travel just fine. that is the best way since the ram will be transferring that force against the axle tube and not the track bar or steering box.

and as far as the TRE's getting forces outside their design: a properly set-up hydro assist system will have the ram and the steering box working in tandem keeping everything in working order.

now I get that it would be much easier to run a knuckle to knuckle tie rod and mount a ram to it, but then you wouldn't be nearly as cool

if you do end up going through TRE's because of some geometry issues you can easily convert the system to 1ton TRE's or Heims.

 

[RWKHausSupply]

people don't always run hydro assist on the tie rod. it works if you run it on the drag link similar to how the stock steering stabilizer is mounted.

in order to do that though you need to seriously beef your track bar mount to handle all that stress.

but if you set up the hydro assist on the tie-rod, as long as you mount the ram so that it is in a straight line from knuckle to knuckle regardless of the shape of the tie-rod it will travel just fine. that is the best way since the ram will be transferring that force against the axle tube and not the track bar or steering box.

and as far as the TRE's getting forces outside their design: a properly set-up hydro assist system will have the ram and the steering box working in tandem keeping everything in working order.

now I get that it would be much easier to run a knuckle to knuckle tie rod and mount a ram to it, but then you wouldn't be nearly as cool

if you do end up going through TRE's because of some geometry issues you can easily convert the system to 1ton TRE's or Heims.

Again, I guess you need better understanding of the forces and the design of the Inv Y and a ram..

Without a long drawn out expaination...

A ram will cause searious "jacking" of the front sus, if it ever is used for any forces to help steer, as well as some squating in the opposite direction and cause serious toe in and toe out changes.

 

[in4aride]

and as far as the TRE's getting forces outside their design: a properly set-up hydro assist system will have the ram and the steering box working in tandem keeping everything in working order.

stock steering puts stress on the TRE's, thats the name of the game. all you would have is the steering box AND hydro assist putting stress on them. it is not going to end well.
i wouldnt put any sort of assist on anything less than 1ton TRE's.
i runn full heim steering and am trying to find weakpoints before adding assist as i tend to break stuff often.

granted, you could be some engineer somewhere, but i dont think you truly understand the stresses put on steering components especially with assist. when the suspension is wound up, tires are at 5psi, and all the weight is on the front end, stuff is gonna break and bend very easily. trust me

 

[in4aride]

I still dont know why anyone ever destroys thier stock knuckles and drills em out to put anything else on their jeep XJ/TJ...

might work well for your purposes, but it doesnt last out here. No, that isnt a guess, its what ive seen from people in this area. out of the 20 or so Currie steering setups ive seen on rigs, half halve been ditched-just plain tossed in the trash. another 40% or so have DESTROYED it on the trail. specifically the draglink. others have sold it in persuit of something better.
DOM and Sperical rod ends are the only thing ill use anymore. nothing works as well for me.

 

[RWKHausSupply]

might work well for your purposes, but it doesnt last out here. No, that isnt a guess, its what ive seen from people in this area. out of the 20 or so Currie steering setups ive seen on rigs, half halve been ditched-just plain tossed in the trash. another 40% or so have DESTROYED it on the trail. specifically the draglink. others have sold it in persuit of something better.
DOM and Sperical rod ends are the only thing ill use anymore. nothing works as well for me.

Wow a D30 survives but the Currie steering is thrown in the trash?

Sorry I just dont believe that, as I also dont understand how DOM is stronger then a solid chromoly bar? Rod ends dont allow the droop of the Currie end at the pitman arm & knuckle, unless you run a 3/4 reduced down to the 5/8 high mis. spacers which most dont, as well as loading the knuckle in opposing forces on a single bolt, with a cross over style.

Or if you switch out to a $ tera knuckle, then you have to redo mounts to not have bump steer and such. Not to mention you also have to either spend good $$ on a bent tie rod or loose/fab the sway bar mounts.

SO why use the D30 and spend so much money on a steering setup? Now if your talking doing a D44 with flat tops or such, then its a no brainer for a completely different steering setup/design.

I have seen many of rigs with the currie setup "out here" and used in the hammers, and also local more generic trails without having to toss or throw them away in the trash. Many you do some more intense or more abusive terrain...

 

[rockclimber]

there is no such thing as a steering system with no stresses. even full hydro is going to have stresses put on the heims, knuckles, etc. especially in the rocks, you have to come up with some way of turning tires against obstacles that are trying to keep them from moving.


there is always going to be changes in the toe, regardless of whether or not you are using a ram.

I never said that the inverted y system was an ideal setup, but it does work.

I don't run an inverted y setup anymore and even still I go through TRE's about once a year.

 

[RWKHausSupply]

it is a currie drag link with a custom 4340 sprung steel tie rod...
this will be the next, and last steering kit I buy before hydro...(hydro assist will be added to this kit sometime down the line)

I don't run an inverted y setup anymore and even still I go through TRE's about once a year.

huh?

anyways...

 

[in4aride]

Wow a D30 survives but the Currie steering is thrown in the trash?

Sorry I just dont believe that, as I also dont understand how DOM is stronger then a solid chromoly bar? Rod ends dont allow the droop of the Currie end at the pitman arm & knuckle, unless you run a 3/4 reduced down to the 5/8 high mis. spacers which most dont, as well as loading the knuckle in opposing forces on a single bolt, with a cross over style.

Or if you switch out to a $ tera knuckle, then you have to redo mounts to not have bump steer and such. Not to mention you also have to either spend good $$ on a bent tie rod or loose/fab the sway bar mounts.

SO why use the D30 and spend so much money on a steering setup? Now if your talking doing a D44 with flat tops or such, then its a no brainer for a completely different steering setup/design.

I have seen many of rigs with the currie setup "out here" and used in the hammers, and also local more generic trails without having to toss or throw them away in the trash. Many you do some more intense or more abusive terrain...

3/4-3/4 heims with 5/8 insert misalignment spacers 1-1/2" .250 wall dom. darglink up top and tie rod on bottom. flexes absolutely no problem.
D30 holds perfectly fine to the 35's.
i didnt say it was "HARDER" out here. i just said out here that shit doesnt work. read, dont assume.
and the steering only outed me $150, so im not heartbroken over it.


i cant tell you why they dont last out here, they just dont. saw one set get destroyed on its first trail run. Liberty trail on a jeep with 33's.

this isnt a pissing match between "here" and "there" i was just stating that because the currie works for your application doesnt mean its best suited for everyone. it doesnt work out here (god knows why). just like Heims out here are rampid and last but may not work out there. was just supplying more than one sided information so the OP can make a well informed decision based on his needs and desires...

:thumbup:

 

[RWKHausSupply]

3/4-3/4 heims with 5/8 insert misalignment spacers 1-1/2" .250 wall dom. darglink up top and tie rod on bottom. flexes absolutely no problem.
D30 holds perfectly fine to the 35's.
i didnt say it was "HARDER" out here. i just said out here that shit doesnt work. read, dont assume.
and the steering only outed me $150, so im not heartbroken over it.


i cant tell you why they dont last out here, they just dont. saw one set get destroyed on its first trail run. Liberty trail on a jeep with 33's.

this isnt a pissing match between "here" and "there" i was just stating that because the currie works for your application doesnt mean its best suited for everyone. it doesnt work out here (god knows why). just like Heims out here are rampid and last but may not work out there. was just supplying more than one sided information so the OP can make a well informed decision based on his needs and desires...

:thumbup:

:cheers: