battery relocation?

jackdaniels

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Colorado springs
so i am curious where to run the battery wires for a battery relocation? i am wanting to relocate it to the rear cargo area close to the pass. side close to the rear seat. have any of you done this? where do you safely run the wires?

not really a relocation, i wanna add another battery for amp's. so one in the stock location and one behind the rear seat.
 
Putting the second battery on the pax side makes sense - it will make it easier to run the power lead to it.

Ideally, you'll run the front-to-back power lead down the pax side under the doorsill trim - since it's an open channel under the trim (the same channel on the driver's side is filled with the front-to-back lighting harness.)

You'll need some variety of isolator to keep the two batteries from "fighting" each other (especially when not charging!) - this can be done with either a solenoid or a solid-state isolator.

How large does the feeder lead need to be? Depends on what you're working with.

As far as grounding the battery, you can drop a ground to the chassis at a convenient spot, as long as it's covered well. Clean about a postage stamp down to bare metal, apply corrosion inhibitor, and use a sheetmetal or tapping screw in the centre of the cleared patch to attach.

If you give with more specific information, I can give you more specific tips. If you want more than just design help, hit me backchannel...
 
They will achieve their own equilibrium and act like one large battery.

Mmmmmm ouch. Or they'll just fist fight each other until they're both completely dead. Electricity has some rules that can't be broken. Unless you buy an isolator ;)
 
I have done it with dual batteries. First, you need spiral wound batteries like an Optima so you won't have to deal with acid fumes in the pass. area. Second as mentioned use grommets or wrap in heater hose where the cables go through metal. Third, use heavy cable. I used "0" gauge copper. I ran them on the inside frame rail, but will be changing them to the outside frame rail. Too much heat from the cat.
 
ya im ordering 50 feet of rockford 1/0 soon. it would be nice alongside the frame rail but murphys law sucks, and i also wanna keep it as far away from audio wires as possible. im gonna keep thinkin.
 
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=990465

Here's an old thread of mine. I used 2 gauge wire from Home Depot, crimped as best I could and then soldered the ends on. I ran the wire down directly under the battery, and then along the inside of the frame rail and up into the engine compartment (frame ground to the pinch seam right under it). I've never noticed any acid fumes with a standard battery. And not only will the batteries fight each other some without isolation, but the way I built it if I leave my headlights on or something, I have a completely isolated battery to restart from, or connect them together for more power. Just be real certain about the amperage ratings of all the switches, wires, and everything on your jeep before you install anything.

I've been running this setup for well over a year with no serious problems.

I can take some pictures tomorrow night if there's anything particular you want to see.
 
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only reason for a battery isolator is to ISOLATE 2 batteries or battery banks from each other for charging its basically a check valve for charging to prevent over charging and not discharge the reserve battery until you connect it to the system. you can connect batteries in parallel with no ill effects. If batteries "fought" each other than every semi, golf cart, and solar system would never stay charged. when in parellel the charge and discharge to gather as on big battery.

http://www.bcae1.com/battiso.htm
 
Batteries will fight each other when the voltages are way different from each other.
All batteries level each other when left long enough to do so. As mentioned battery
matching is good for longevity of batteries and system performance. Running your
batteries in parallel is the normal way to do it and it doesn't hurt them to run them
as normal with the stock alternator but if you run in series to get extra power
then it would be best to have a switch for charging and running the extra battery
as just an extra battery but even that is rare for even car audio enthusiasts since
everything runs on 12v anyway.

Just hook up in parallel, it'll be fine and use optima yellow I think for car audio they
are the ones that have punch.
 
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