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Backyard Customs XJ Build

ive been looking at high steer arms. i need to get one with some height though to clearance the leaf springs. i saw a website that had 1 7/8" high steer arms (http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/new/detaproduct.php?id=67) and then i also saw a website that had 1 1/2" high steer arms with angle correction, not sure if i would need that or not though (http://www.partsmike.com/store/store.php?crn=204&rn=1292&action=show_detail). i also saw some spacers that i could use for more height. i will have to go to the junkyard and get a knuckle to have it sent out for machining though. my neighbors call code enforcement if i have the wheels off a vehicle for too long(last time they said i was running a chop shop). i will be hunting around the junky tomorrow for some parts to do this conversion to high steer.
 
If you dont do histeer, at least gusset it better.

Something like this should work alot better.

P2250010.jpg
 
fubar XJ said:
Eh, yes and no. You can still change the ball joints, the flat-top knuckle was hit with a grinder to knock the surface reasonably flat, the knuckle was pre-heated and welded with high-nickel rod. No, it's not the best practice, but it's held together for going on ten years now through some hard wheeling. For a backyard-built swamp runner, it'll work.

But I hear you. Things should be done as right as possible given the circumstances.
Click to expand...
:scared:



On a side note, how the heck is that pass. side spring being held on? Im only seeing one ubolt.
P2250010.jpg
 
Starboard M said:
:scared:



On a side note, how the heck is that pass. side spring being held on? Im only seeing one ubolt.
P2250010.jpg
Click to expand...

Yea...you should at least throw another pair of sunglasses on that side. That'll hold it. :roflmao:

Seriously though, take some pics of whatever you end up going with, ill be interested to see the setup.
 
Starboard M said:
:scared:



On a side note, how the heck is that pass. side spring being held on? Im only seeing one ubolt.
P2250010.jpg
Click to expand...

the outside is held on with the Ubolt you see in the picture and the inside is held on using studs(not pictured). i need to find somewhere to buy longer studs....


i am probably going to go with high steer. i will send my knuckle off to JNE to get machined. i dont know if i should be high steer on both knuckles or just on the passenger side and use a tie rod in the stock location. i have a couple friends that have it setup with a high steer arm just on the passenger side and use the stock tie rod and it seems to work pretty good. im just not sure if it is worth it for me to buy arms and spacers for both sides seeing as though this is mostly used for trails and muddin.
 
CanMan said:
Ive wheeled with Doug(fubar xj) in his CJ and it kicks ass. Seems to work.

And his OBA kicks ass. York FTMFW.
Click to expand...

The CJ has the custom homebrew high-steer, and it's never let me down. Conversely, the XJ, which has zero mods that could be remotely considered "booty-fab", has had more issues than I can shake a stick at. The steering wheel gets off-center immediately after a trail run, seems to center itself a few miles down the highway. The front pinion and drivers' axle seal both leak like crazy, the rear leafs have sagged and are bent, the front OX cable doesn't engage consistently, there is a parasitic draw that drains the battery if I son't start/run it for more than about 12 hours, and the t-case/front drive still won't engage consistently despite having recently replaced the chain, nylon fork finger tabs, long linkage rod, and transmission mount.

I'm about to give up on this money pit POS and sell it. I've never been more frustrated with a vehicle ever. Everything I do to it just seems to either not work or reveal more problems. I may bring it in to you guys at some point in the next couple of months if I can't start making some headway here. Either that or just sell it and say "Fucx it!".
 
sent out passenger side knuckle to John Nutter Enterprises to have it milled-drilled-tapped for high steer. i still am up in the air if i should do a full high steer setup or just do a high steer arm for the draglink. i was looking at ballistic fabrications steering and they have tie rod and heim joint style; which is better for steering? i called up the manufacturer of the high steer arms and they said that they are reamed for GM TRE so if i went with heim joints i would need to drill them out.

what setup have you had experience with and would recommend?
anyone have some pictures of the setups on a cherokee?
 
jbjustin33415 said:
sent out passenger side knuckle to John Nutter Enterprises to have it milled-drilled-tapped for high steer. i still am up in the air if i should do a full high steer setup or just do a high steer arm for the draglink. i was looking at ballistic fabrications steering and they have tie rod and heim joint style; which is better for steering? i called up the manufacturer of the high steer arms and they said that they are reamed for GM TRE so if i went with heim joints i would need to drill them out.

what setup have you had experience with and would recommend?
anyone have some pictures of the setups on a cherokee?
Click to expand...
If you use heims, don't drill out the arm. use some of these http://www.bcbroncos.com/store/images/images_big/DSCF2141.JPG and safety washers The other option would be to drill and tap it to 3/4, but I wouldn't recommend just drilling it because the hole will just waller out. Keep up the good work. What do you plan to do about the CAD? (central axle disconnect)
 
Last edited:
jbjustin33415 said:
what setup have you had experience with and would recommend?
anyone have some pictures of the setups on a cherokee?
Click to expand...

I don't have any experience with the heims, but this is the Ballistic fab kit that I bought unwelded, then cut and welded to my specific lenghts.

This is probably the best picture I have showing it. It was before I changed the pitman arm, the draglink and trackbar are now parallel, and I don't have any bumpsteer.

DSC_2517.jpg
 
Begster, just what i wanted to see.

what pitman arm did you use to have the correct taper for the GM TRE?

do you have any dead spots with that setup and how much steering do you get?

that looks like a flat pitman arm, how much of a drop did you need to get the trackbar and draglink correct?
 
jbjustin33415 said:
Begster, just what i wanted to see.

what pitman arm did you use to have the correct taper for the GM TRE?

do you have any dead spots with that setup and how much steering do you get?

that looks like a flat pitman arm, how much of a drop did you need to get the trackbar and draglink correct?
Click to expand...
The arm in the picture is a wagoneer pitman arm that I reamed out to fit the TRE. I ended up calling Parts Mike, and they recommended going back to a drop pitman arm for an XJ, that they reamed out to fit. That is what I'm running now, and the angles match perfectly, although I'll look back into a drop wagoneer pitman arm at some point, as there is a slight loss of turning radius.

As far as deadspots, I really can't tell, as my steering box has play in it. And with the trackbar, RE first sent me the wrong superflex joint, then their second try the tolerancing on the 1/2" hole was terrible, so there was play in there. Too much stuff going on with the steering to be able to tell if there is a deadspot.

As far as how much steering did I get, what exactly do you mean?



ausi02 said:
Begster...

Are you runnung wj knuckles? It appears as if you are.... what did you do the the knuckle to get it to work with the chevy tie rods
Click to expand...
No, I'm not, refer to CanMan's post.
CanMan said:
That would be a D44 not a D30.
Click to expand...
Correct.
 
Begster said:
The arm in the picture is a wagoneer pitman arm that I reamed out to fit the TRE. I ended up calling Parts Mike, and they recommended going back to a drop pitman arm for an XJ, that they reamed out to fit. That is what I'm running now, and the angles match perfectly, although I'll look back into a drop wagoneer pitman arm at some point, as there is a slight loss of turning radius.

As far as deadspots, I really can't tell, as my steering box has play in it. And with the trackbar, RE first sent me the wrong superflex joint, then their second try the tolerancing on the 1/2" hole was terrible, so there was play in there. Too much stuff going on with the steering to be able to tell if there is a deadspot.

As far as how much steering did I get, what exactly do you mean?
Click to expand...

I didnt phrase my question correctly, but you answered it.

"...although I'll look back into a drop wagoneer pitman arm at some point, as there is a slight loss of turning radius."

I was trying to get at how far the wheels will turn...turning radius.

Sometimes I cant explain what Im trying for the life of me. :dunce:

Im assuming the wagoneer pitman arm bolts right up the XJ steering box?
 
Well I ordered all the stuff for high steer, just waiting for it to arrive. Only thing I have received so far is the knuckle I sent off to John Nutter Enterprises, looks real good.

I mounted the front shocks real quick today, havent tested it out yet though. I used the stock top mount and the spring plates for my axle had a hole for a sway bar link and I used that for the bottom mount. Everything looks good to me. Does anyone foresee any problems with the way I have mounted the shocks?

P3090094.jpg


I was also thinking about how to make my shackle boxes stronger. I was thinking of through bolting or welding some "U Channel" and then welding it to the shackle boxes. Then I would make a new crossmember that through bolts to the new peices below the orignal framerails to tie it all together.

Here is a picture of how it is now

P3090091.jpg


Picture of how I would put some U Channel in there, with Through Bolts or I could weld the U channel and Through Bolt the crossmember.

P3090091-1.jpg


Let me know what yall think about it.
 
I wouldn't worry about your "U" channel, look into adding more of a gusset from the frame to the spring hanger
 
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