axle swap question

headhunter

NAXJA Forum User
Location
NJ
Hey guys -

Kinda new around this forum but I lurk sometimes. I also try to stay up to date over at jeepforum.com

Anyway, I usually am able to answer these types of questions from my haynes manual or doing a search, but I guess I could use some pointers and opinions. Basically I'm looking for a step by step guide to switch out my 8.25 rear end ... for an 8.25 rear end. Here was my original post at the other forum that hasn't been answered yet:


"So I took my jeep to the shop and they told me between the wheel bearings, axle bearings and chewed up ring and pinion in the back ... well it was more than I wanted to spend. I asked the mechanic what he'd do if it was his jeep and he said to get an entire rear end assembly from the junk yard. I was inclined to agree since he was not the only mechanic to tell me this. He also told me that on top of the 300-400 for the assembly, he'd charge an additional 400-600 to throw it on for me. This second part would not do.

SO, I figured this would be a perfect opportunity to get my feet wet in taking my jeep apart and putting it back together. The only problem is I can't find concise instructions for rear end removal and installation. Specifcally, what's involved? I know there are brake lines, emergency brake stuff, then of course the ubolts, shocks, springs...

What I'm really looking for is a step by step. Maybe even a little help (I was told this is a 2 man job. (I'm in North Jersey but can drive if this can be done in a day) Thanks for any help.



Andrew"


If anyone can direct me to a good site where there are "instructions" or tech reports that would be great. If anyway just loves to switch out axles and wants to physically lend me a hand, that would be great too. I'm a somewhat newbie to the jeep world but the more I learn the more I love them. Thanks for all your help.
 
disconnect the rear brake hose...driveshaft and u bolts.. remove axle...

roll axle under jeep.. connect install u bolts brake hose and driveshaft.
 
I just did this on another truck couple weeks ago, not a jeep though.
Changing the rear is not all that bad. Start spraying powerblaster on all the bolts back there NOW.
Locate donor rear and get it home.
Try to find one with the same gearing as yours, 3:07 if manual, 3:53 if auto.
Try to find one with a limited slip if you can, look for a small metal tag on the diff cover...
Put yours up on jack stands under the frame rails
Break the rear shackle bolts loose.
Put jack under pumpkin and support it.
Disconnect the bottom shock mount both sides.
Unbolt the brake line, it's a single one.
Remove the axle vent [tube on top]
Break and remove the U bolts on both sides.
Lower the rear of each spring. This is where extra hands come in handy. You can leave the wheels and tires on to make rolling it out a bit easier or take them off beforehand and manhandle it out.
Lower the floor jack and start backing it out. It might be easier with a tranny jack or with two floor jacks, one under each axle tube.
Now reverse the process with the donor one. You should allow a day with the new axle to check it out, change the fluid, check the brake drums, etc.
To throw some other stuff in to the mix and play devils advocate now might be a good time to upgrade to a D44 :D, regear and put a locker back there :D :D :D

While you have it open check the C clips, put new axle seals on it, easy once it's open. Also look for metal chips in the donor, check the drained fluid, filter it thru an old T shirt or something.
You will need new U bolts, dont reuse the old ones. Eagle knows the sizes, he just posted it a day or two ago I think. Might want to bling bling the new axle with a clean up and paint job too :D Where are you in NJ ???

Whoops, forgot, unbolt driveshaft from pintle at the rear end. Personally I would also put a new universal in there too..
 
poppabear said:
disconnect the rear brake hose...driveshaft and u bolts.. remove axle...

roll axle under jeep.. connect install u bolts brake hose and driveshaft.

It really is that easy. You may want to keep your brake components in which case the Haynes will help you through that.

You need to be sure you get an axle with gears that match your existing gear ratio (if its 4wd). 8.25s usually say on the sticker on the end of the axle.
 
It can be done by one person in considerably less than a full day if you're prepped and know what you're doing. Feeling your way the first time might take a bit longer. Biggest drawback is that the axle assemblies are heavy, so you need a good floor jack to help get the old one out and the new one in. You'll also be working under the vehicle, so you'll need a GOOD set of jack stands.

If you're in North Jersey, there's a shop in Mahwah run by a guy named Joe Azevedo (he posts on the North Atlantic Chapter Forum as Rock Ready XJ). $400 to $600 to do a simple axle swap is highway robbery. Contact Joe and see what he can do for you. He'll probably let you watch and learn while he does the job. He's a member, BTW, and it's always cool to support members when it works for both parties.
 
Since lifting a Jeep effectively involves removing the rear axle, most writeups will give you an idea of the steps needed to swap axles. They don't address removing the e-brake cables though. There are two styles for the e-brake cable routing, and as your profile says '98' yours should have equal-length cables that run up the center tranny tunnel. 99s and up have a mounting bracket on the driver's side framerail and you'll have to remove the old cables and reattach them on the new axle.
 
Hey Rich, He's got a XJ not a MJ so he should not have to remove the shackle bolts to lower the axle. I just changed the rear in my 96 last week. Took me about 2 1/2 hrs. by myself, and I took my time. If you have any donut spares around they are great for moving an axle around. They are also fun for testing out a new locker :yelclap: . HTH. JIM.
 
Yuccaman, the e-brake cable change occurred in '97, not '99.
 
No kidding? Cool - I'll note that. I had heard the "old style" remained on the new body for a few years after. The only late model I had to judge that by was a 99, which only reinforced my opinion. Thanks
 
ILLXJ said:
Hey Rich, He's got a XJ not a MJ so he should not have to remove the shackle bolts to lower the axle. I just changed the rear in my 96 last week. Took me about 2 1/2 hrs. by myself, and I took my time. If you have any donut spares around they are great for moving an axle around. They are also fun for testing out a new locker :yelclap: . HTH. JIM.

The only reason I suggested that was because it's easier to get the ubolts started while everything is closer to the ground and you can lift it up as a unit. If you have some extra hands to keep it steady then it's a different story. In the past I've been known to come up with some very inventive methods of doing stuff that requires more then one person, lucky I'm still alive and have not lost any of my 'parts' from doing some of them... :rolleyes:
 
Back
Top