Axle braketry/Front Suspensions....

[Ghost]

Ok so What is everyone using for bracketry? LCA mounts? I was thinking some square tube hole sawed and cut in half. But what size? UCA mounts? Girdle over the pumpkin? Either channel or folded plate. .25 too much? Is the stock 5 link the way to go or is there something else I should look at? I was thinking 2 long arms and one arm to hold the axle from rotating attached to one of the long arms. Make any sence? If you sugest a different suspension please include pictures and or diagrams for a noob.... I will have help on this from profesional fabricators and such I was just wondering if there was a better way? I know the triangleated 4 link is probalby one of the best but I also know it is next to impossiable to do under the front of the XJ.

 

[ArcticXJ]

Here was mine.... just for an idea. A36 plate.

Driver's side:

Upper over the pumpkin:

Pass. side:

...never mind the suspenders.

 

[Ghost]

Technically what is it called when the upper mounts connect to the lower arms? Is that considered a radius arm suspension? I assume that is the RE Long arm kit? After doing some research more in diffeent forums... search is your friend if you know what to search for and where to do it.... I want to see more of what Crash and Goat did. But every thread I look at all the pictures are gone and so is that BD site that they were hosted at.

 

[IntrepidXJ]

Technically what is it called when the upper mounts connect to the lower arms? Is that considered a radius arm suspension?

yes, radius arms

 

[XJ_ranger]

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71512&page=2&pp=30&highlight=axle+bracket

 

[Ghost]

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71512&page=2&pp=30&highlight=axle+bracket

TY opie i read a lot of that thread. But the question is which is the best for the front of the XJ? I am noticing a lot of the west coast guys running the 3 link... so is that my answer?

 

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

3" OD Box tubing with a 3/16" wall fits most spherical ends perfectly at 2 5/8" ID. Jeff

 

[Roxtar]

This is one of the mounts I build for all my RE Superflex joints.
By putting a small diameter radius on one side I can adjust the joints with a spanner wrench without removing them.

 

[Jes]

Pictures of my junk in this thread...
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=36273

 

[Goatman]

3" OD Box tubing with a 3/16" wall fits most spherical ends perfectly at 2 5/8" ID. Jeff

Ditto.

All my mounts are made from 3" boxed tubing 3/16 wall, which gives you the 2 5/8 id that is all of the stock mounts, Johnny Joints, etc.

Here's a link to pics of my front axle, and other stuff.

axle brackets

I didn't use stock bushings on the upper arm, so my mount is for a regular JJ.

 

[XJ Ben]

I used the RK 3 link kit with an RK track bar as well. I used 1/4 wall 3x3 tube for the lowers. For the truss and the upper 1/4 wall 4x4 tube + 4 hrs screwing around with a bandsaw, welder, torch, welder etc. To get the proper c-channel shape. Then hopefully the "work of art" is still square and all the damn math adds up and the thing fits right over the diff. I also used the 4x4 for the spring perches and shock mounts. This fab stuff is sooo @#$ fun!
I had read about several Waggy front D44 installs where the lift was 4-6+ inches with out rotating the C's. I dont know about the higher lift #s being DD rigs or not but I decided with my 5-6" lift with 35's I should be OK. I set the Caster off the bottom Ball joint to 5-6 degrees then tacked the pass side spring perch level and went from there

I had just finish welded the truss then the next day I found the thread on Jess front. Made mine kinda look like poo He does nice work! And a good write up. Thanks!

 

[CartsXJ]

This is one of the mounts I build for all my RE Superflex joints.
By putting a small diameter radius on one side I can adjust the joints with a spanner wrench without removing them.

That is a great idea, but depending on which way the forces are applied to that mount, your "load bearing area" is pretty thin. Granted taking the arms out is a pain in tha a$$, to adjust the pre-load, I am not sure if I would give up a strong mount for easy of adjustment.

 

[Roxtar]

That is a great idea, but depending on which way the forces are applied to that mount, your "load bearing area" is pretty thin. Granted taking the arms out is a pain in tha a$$, to adjust the pre-load, I am not sure if I would give up a strong mount for easy of adjustment.

That's why, if you look closely, you'll see I used 1/2" thick plate on that side of the mount.
I've never had a problem, even with some severe torture.
An added bonus with the thicker plate is a larger bearing surface on the mounting bolts.
Less chance of them wallowing out.

 

[CartsXJ]

That's why, if you look closely, you'll see I used 1/2" thick plate on that side of the mount.
I've never had a problem, even with some severe torture.
An added bonus with the thicker plate is a larger bearing surface on the mounting bolts.
Less chance of them wallowing out.

oh ok, I didn't notice the larger mount on the other side. And that makes me feel better that you are using 1/2 plate also. Very nice.