AX-15 + 4.56's + 35's?

MtnBkr

NAXJA Forum User
Thought I'd post this up in the local forum since you guys have wheeled in CO and aren't just guys rolling through big mud holes down south.

I've recently aquired some axles with 4.56's and am leaning towards the RE 5.5" lift. I realize that I'll need to do some trimming for 35's.

My question is, will I be under-geared for the Colorado terrain with 35's and a manual? Would I be hating life on a trail like Spring Creek? I rode Spring Creek with a buddy in his TJ that had 35's on 4.56's but had the automatic.

Also, some of my TJ buddys swear you need 35's+ to crawl the 7+ rated trails in the state... do you agree?

I just don't want to drop a ton of coin on 33's and wish I had 35's.

Thanks for your input!
 
Should be fine with that setup, I'll be running a 7 and an 8 next weekend on 31's. There are a few around here that are manageable on less than 35's, but the Penrose network of trails and probably Blanca Peak, and maybe BV Carnage you would want 35+ tires. I've not run any of those trails, so i'm not the expert, just what i've heard and read. Others will chime in i'm sure.
 
I liked 4.88's with a tired 4.0 / auto and 33's.

Still not sure about 4.88's with the current 315's and a fresher 4.0 / auto.

If you have the axles geared already I would pick up some cheap / used 33's and go from there.
 
drove to moab and back twice with 35 ax 15 and 4.56 not too bad but worth it to run the 35s
 
Look around. Some 35's are same cost or CHEAPER than the 33 version. Get the 35's. You may not 'need' them. But having them is damn nice.
Stock zj just ran eagle rock a 7 I believe. Took some serious driving but he never took a strap.

But in wet weather on 35's I had hard time on the harder lines on same trail.
 
I had 36's with 4.56's and an AX-15. Perfect gearing for the street and w/ my 4:1 t-case it was awesome on the trail. I really liked my setup.

I just ran spring creek w/ 33's AW4 stock 3.55's open front and a welded rear. A challenge, but doable.

I would highly recommend the 35's, AX-15, and 4.56 route. Once you start getting into the harder trails you might wat a 4:1, but most of the trail I was actually wanting for my stock t-case back because I was overgeared for them. It was great on obstacles though, barely had to touch the clutch.
 
Thanks all for the input. I've been searching the forum about weak links with the stock axles. It seems like the 8.25 should hold up fine but the 30 might be a different story. My 8.25 has a trash-lock in the back and the 30 is open. I'd like to do an ARB in the front at some point and throw an Aussie or Detroit in the rear.

I know there are a ton of threads talking about 35's on stock axles... but in your opinion, how will the 30 hold up realistically on 35's? I know the axle shafts are the main weak link but I also saw a guy on here who blew out his ring and pinion... is that common? What do you Colorado peeps think?

Thanks again for the replies!
 
Shock-loading is not your friend. With enough effort, you can break anything.
 
The weakest link on the D30 is the axle housing itself. It tends to flex and bend with the larger tires, this causes the R&P to seperate and fail. That being said, with the front being open the D30 will probably do just fine on 35's if you aren't too aggressive with it. I personally wouldn't waste my time putting any money into a D30. You're better off spending your money on an Early Bronco D44. You can snag one for a few hundred bones and then get 5x4.5 to 5x5.5 adapters for the rear to match up your bolt patterns. You can find HP EB D44's and those will be plenty stout for most trails in CO, especialy if you're running a selectable locker or l/s up front where you aren't worried about completely binding up your axle shafts.

I ran a low pinion Grand Wagoneer D44 with my 36's and even with all the gearing and the 4:1 t-case I never blew it up. I do try to wheel calmly, but ask anybody, I have no problem applying the throttle to get over obstacles. I was running a Detroit Tru-trac limited slip in mine. It worked pretty well and I liked the fact that I didn't have to worry as much about my stock shafts because I could never fully bind up my drivetrain.
 
If you can truss and or add a duff cover you should be good. Runnin locked on 35's with a stock shaft. Just stay outthe gas(a lesson I'm learning) and you'll be good. Think led ran 37's on his old 30?????
 
Back
Top