AW4 Tiptronic Controller

[antonxj]

As I look closer at this design, I have a minor concern with the 74F04 and 74F14 without any voltage regulation for Vcc. It has been a number of years since I have done any hardware design and I don't have any data books handy, but I seem to recall that their Vcc NOM was +5V. I am not saying that they won't work with a high Vcc, but I have a concern about their life.

ahhh good spotting

the 74xx series needs V+ between 2 - 5.5 Vcc, so useing a 4069 instead of the 7404 will solve that, but what about the 7414? I lwill look at a 5V supply for these then you could use either. It was in the plan in my head, and only halfway on the PCB:looney:

the 40xx series cmos can handle V+ of 3 - 18 Vcc but i'll look at using a LM7812 for all the rest, including a 1000uF Cap on the input side, also left some of the unused gates "open" will set them either high or low.

so the PCB is not off to production yet.

thanks for the heads up tho, but what you can't see is that Fletch and i are addressing these very errors in PM, but anyone that spots a prob. let me know, it's the reason i post the PCB here before it goes to production

 

[Gojeep]

This is working out really well with all the global inputs.
I ask around and see what interest there is at my end.
And yes I am downunder. Where in SA are you as was there August last year mainly around Cape Town though.

 

[nitrogt101]

How complicated would the install be? Still a lot of wiring to be done on the consumer end? If its a pretty straight forward install(for a non-electrical type like me) I would definitly be interested. Also, anything new with doing this on OBDII?

 

[antonxj]

This is working out really well with all the global inputs.
I ask around and see what interest there is at my end.
And yes I am downunder. Where in SA are you as was there August last year mainly around Cape Town though.

Nope i'm a bit more north of Cape town (600+ miles) 1400 Km
near Pretoria for anyone that want to look it up!

 

[antonxj]

How complicated would the install be? Still a lot of wiring to be done on the consumer end? If its a pretty straight forward install(for a non-electrical type like me) I would definitly be interested. Also, anything new with doing this on OBDII?

Like with any DIY install there will be some work to be done, but not very complicated or technical at all.

there are holes in the PCB where you will have to solder in some wires( 2 each for the up, down and TCL push buttons) where you put the buttons is up to you but their final location will determine the lengh of the wires (have a look at Fletch's posted pics for some ideas!)

you will also have to solder in a chassis ground wire and a power wire that will be traced from a toggle or similar switch (location also up to You) this switch will kill the power to the "tranny CPU" found in you jeep and turn on power to this "AW4 Tiptronic Controller"

the holes marked a - g, cathode and dp are all used for a 7 seg display (look at Fletch's pics) so a ribbon or 9 core cable should be used here to mount the display somewhere you want it.

dp is the Decimal Point of the 7 Seg, used to indicate that the torque converter is locked (TCL pressed) but it is kept seperate on the PCB in case you would prefer a led of some sort to indicate this! the dp might be difficult to spot...also using different values for the resistor the brightness of the display can be adjusted!

lastly there are 3 wires leading to the 3 tranny soleniods found in the AW4 trans. you will splice these wires into the harness of the jeeps tranny cpu (same harness where you will splice in the power wire for the swop over switch)

it sounds more complicated than it is tho

we will do a full instruction write up once it is all sorted!

as for the OBDII (check engine light luminating) problem....the short answer is no! not getting around that one yet!

 

[antonxj]

ok so here is ver 1.3 then

Top

Bottom

what is different:

1: Added a 12 Volt Regulator at Input
2: The 1000uF 35V Cap is no also onboard
3: change the 7404 to a 4069 to handle the 12Vdd
4: 7414/40106 Inverter, Vdd now fitted with a 5V Zener diode so either IC can be used
5: Tied all IC's to Vdd and Vss (that i forgot before :eyes: )
6: Set all unused Gate Inputs to either High or Low, depending on where i could route them.

think that's the lot......

 

[antonxj]

Ok, two errors found
1) pinout of the TIP120's was routed incorect base and collector swaped - fixed
2) 7812 Volt Reg. upside down - fixed

So here are the pics of the PCB, just use the links as embeding them makes the thread look a bit cluttered

Top Layer

Bottom Layer

the scale is set at 1.5 : 1 to give an idea of the size!

currently waiting on a quote from the PCB maker for the proto, should know by tommorow and then have a PCB by next week if all is well.

later

:laugh3:

 

[1bolt]

Now my question is this: Would anyone be intersted in buying the ready made PCB and components or even the fully assemble PCB, tested and working of cause, this is more for the guys that do not want to risk the DIY aspect or don't have the time.

Count me in for a fully assembled pcb, something I could wire my own paddles to, with remote mounting of LED or segmented display, controls etc. So I can put them where I want.

Next someone needs to point out an OEM wireless padle/control setup that could be pulled from a wrecked vehicle, I know some newer non-exotic Euro imports have shift paddles. Audi and Volvo I think?

Does anyone know anything about cruise control setups? Maybe we could use the the more common steering wheel cruise buttons to control one of these? Specifically how do most common Cruise buttons get back to the main harness? I doubt my 95 Mustangs or 01 Cobra's wheel mounted controls used wireless... but I don't remember a pigtail harness flopping around either

 

[Dingo509]

most of the newer vehicles use what is called a clockspring. It basically about 6-9 feet or flat ribbon cable wound up loosly in a round box. part of it turns with the steering wheel and the other part stays fixed to the column. I don't know what year you have but the 95-96 with the airbag had this clockspring. and the cool part is the airbag is manual, so no wires, you could leave the airbag or remove it and sell it. you wouldn't have to have an oparation airbag IF YOU DIDN'T HAVE ONE ORIGINALLY! If you do have one you need to leave it.

if you do this you will need to swap the whole steering column i don't know how much more wiring will need to be done. I do know the ignition switch is now right behind the key, instead of low on the cloumn. But if you choose to do this you could use the wires in the clockspring to control up/down shifting. you will loose the cruise operation of the buttons on the steering wheel however. inless your really good and take apart the clockspring and run another cable inside.

Hope all that made sence

Dingo

 

[Fletchs90xj]

Or if you are so inclined you could put in a say 8 pole- Double throw relay so when you are in "Tiptronic" mode the cruise buttons become you shift and TCL. And then when in "Auto tranny" mode you can still use your cruise control.

 

[tallbluexj]

Can you PM me a copy of the schematic. I just went with a 6.5" lift and 33's, but haven't done the gear change yet. I wonder if this would get me by, i.e. tranny wants to shift in and out of OD all the time. Tks.

 

[antonxj]

if you do this you will need to swap the whole steering column i don't know how much more wiring will need to be done.

Look at this for an easier option, i know momo also makes them:

http://www.bakerprecision.com/sparwhl3.htm

http://www.amazon.com/Steering-Wheel-Button-Satin-Brushed/dp/B000634NIG

but not an option if you want to keep your airbag tho.

 

[Gojeep]

Can you PM me a copy of the schematic. I just went with a 6.5" lift and 33's, but haven't done the gear change yet. I wonder if this would get me by, i.e. tranny wants to shift in and out of OD all the time. Tks.

It is hosted on my site under the auto 1st gear lock out write up. www.go.jeep-xj.info There is a direct link in this thread too listed a few times.

 

[1bolt]

Look at this for an easier option, i know momo also makes them:

http://www.bakerprecision.com/sparwhl3.htm

http://www.amazon.com/Steering-Wheel-Button-Satin-Brushed/dp/B000634NIG

but not an option if you want to keep your airbag tho.

do those actually have a provision for wiring the buttons down the column?
For 250 bucks I'm thinking that adapting a later column with the clockspring is the way to go.

Personally (just me probably) but I could never stand the look of aftermarket stuff (especially small racing wheels) added on that doesn't match up at least somewhat with the other components. Looks like it's alien technology next to the stock stuff. It's either got to be totally custom, or it's got to at least fit in without looking out of place.

Anyway thanks for the links.

 

[xj9140]

these are some nice paddles , but a little pricey http://www.twistmachine.com/

 

[Gojeep]

Showed this to a friend of mine who does this sort of thing a lot and his comments were as follows:
a) What happens if any of the interface wires come loose, will the unit go haywire, or will it fail gracefully?
b) Are the logic chips specified still readily available?
c) In unit, or onboard power supply filtering needs to be considered. The supply from a car can be (probably is) electrically noisy. All the supplies to the logic should be regulated/filtered.

 

[rpyne]

Showed this to a friend of mine who does this sort of thing a lot and his comments were as follows:
a)What happens if any of the interface wires come loose, will the unit go haywire, or will it fail gracefully?
b)Are the logic chips specified still readily available?
c)In unit, or onboard power supply filtering needs to be considered. The supply from a car can be (probably is) electrically noisy. All the supplies to the logic should be regulated/filtered.

I used to do this sort of thing for a living.

a) If a wire comes loose, the install was bad. I would strongly recommend soldered connections rather than crimped. As with any electrical/electronic work, all wiring needs to be properly dressed and secured. In most cases if it does go haywire, it is a simple flip of a switch to revert to auto.

b) Yes.

c) The level of regulation and filtering may not be ideal but are reasonable.

 

[antonxj]

I used to do this sort of thing for a living.

a) If a wire comes loose, the install was bad. I would strongly recommend soldered connections rather than crimped. As with any electrical/electronic work, all wiring needs to be properly dressed and secured. In most cases if it does go haywire, it is a simple flip of a switch to revert to auto.

b) Yes.

c) The level of regulation and filtering may not be ideal but are reasonable.

a) I agree, the quality of the install will have a direct effect on the reliabillity of the controller...isn't that the case with everthing in life
Also remember that this controller only operates on the forward gears i.e. 1st 2nd 3rd and 4th/OD so any failure will only impact on those gears, so you won't find yourself in P, R or N if a failure does occure, those are still controlled by cable from the normal shifter. In most cases a failure will result in power loss to one or both outputs, that inturn will shift the tranny into 4th/OD or will have no result depending on the gear you were in when the failure occured.

b) CMOS Standard Logic chips are very comon and readily available and will be for many years to come as no alternative that is a pin for pin replacement is yet available.

c)I agree..

 

[Gojeep]

Thanks guys and just thought I would pass on his comments but thought you would have it it hand.

 

[Rafa]

There is something that could be done to adapt the cruise control to a paddle shift, but the way the current (at least 98-99) cruise control works is not a open-close switch, it has a two-wire (voltage sensitive) interface through the clockspring (not shared with the airbag wires). The shifter would require a microcontroller with analog to digital converter and then switch the output to a similar logic as implemented above. It is not a hard thing to do, just a uController and some programming. And this could have the cruise or shifter feature.

Rafa