AW4 Tiptronic Controller

[punker248]

I'd definitely buy a PCB if you get them printed, I could put the compenents on it myself, if that was more difficult for you to do, but wouldn't complain if it came preassembled either . I was considering doing something similar all on a test board, but would really prefer a PCB.

So what's the progress?

Justin

 

[antonxj]

I'd definitely buy a PCB if you get them printed, I could put the compenents on it myself, if that was more difficult for you to do, but wouldn't complain if it came preassembled either . I was considering doing something similar all on a test board, but would really prefer a PCB.

So what's the progress?

Justin

Hi Justin

I work in the electronics field so assembling the PCB would be very easy for me, i offer the PCB "bare" cause i know some of you would prefer to add " I did it myself " status on your install The components excluding the PCB would cost about $5 or so maybe less, however if i were to assemble and test the PCB i would add some labour to cover my time but the benefit of a preassemble PCB is that you will have peace of mind that it is tested and working.

Some of the local guys here in SA have also enquired about turnkey options (i'm looking into that)

As far as the progress...well i'm waiting on the first 5 PCB's from the manufacturer, should have them this friday and will spend the weekend testing the first one Will take photos and post pics...

So here are some prices, let me know what you think:

Bare PCB - $ 19.00 (ZAR 130.00)
Preassembled PCB - $35.00 (ZAR 250.00)
Extras - Plastic enclosure $ ?????
- Push buttons, toggle switch, 7 seg display, wire splicers $ ????
shipping - $ depends on where it will be shipped to ?

Oh and the prices will fluctuate with the current exchange rate!

 

[punker248]

See that sounds good, though I'm perfectly cabable of procuring the individual components and soldering them to the board, it's certainly not a big deal to me, and I'd defintely spring the extra 16 bucks to get it preassembled, I'll want to make my own box and controls for it though.

So yeah, keep us posted on how they work out.

Justin

 

[antonxj]

Hi Guys,

wheeuueewee, its been a busy week here at work...no time to play on the controller..

But guess what?? I made time and can now report that it is DONE!!!!

Yes guys, its build tested and working... on the test bench at least...still to try it in the jeep...but man its a brilliant little circuit.. had a few bugs to sort out though and still have to test it in the jeep.

So this is just an update to keep you guys informed

Will take Pictures, will post pictures, will do complete write up, including bugs and fixes that i came across... a full report for lack of a better word

I also found the perfect enclosure for it and a very nice "joystick" gear selector

ok let me get some pictures tonite....ahhh i'm such a tease

Later

 

[Gojeep]

Great to see some progress mate.

 

[antonxj]

Ok here goes a very big post...srry!

Pic of the bare PCB top and Bottom (Note that this is a proto PCB and not what Production units will look like...Final units will have a green or red coating called a solder mask and silk screen printed component foot prints in white)

Assembled PCB iside the plastic enclosure!

Now compare that to errr ... this!

Sorry Fletch, just coudn't resist!!! LOL

Controller on the Test Bench

Gear shifting in sync 1 - 4

And the TC lock engaged! (indicated by the Decimal Point)

The TC lock can be engaged and disengage in any gear, will also auto disengage when shifting gears

Side and top view of enclosure

I will fit a connector to the side panel in the pic above (20 Pin) and run all the wires through it to clean in up!

And this is a neat little Joystick i found that can be used to change up/down (simple design that operates 4 micro switches) only need 2 and a push button for TCL

ok enough for now, will post even more info and pics later :roll:

 

[Fletchs90xj]

Looks good Anton, are you going to sell an encosure complete version? And now to add the piggy back board that reads the gears in either Auto or manual mode. Also the addition of semless transfer from auto to manual not defaulting to 3rd

 

[rehab]

pretty, i want one!

 

[Dingo509]

I am very much in love with this project, i just wish i had more to offer than more ideas. But i will be a guinea pig!

Anyway heres some more ideas,

antonxj, you said it auto disengages the TC lockup when you switch gears. Between you and Fletchs90xj you think you can get it to auto lockup after it shifts a gear?

Fletchs90xj, You mentioned a piggyback board to read gears in auto or manual. How hard would it be to just display an "A" for auto mode. That way you could put the display up high and know if your in auto or manual mode.


Now for the big one!

Fletchs90xj, you said that the stock computer will default to 3rd. What if instead of interupting the power to the stock controller you interupted the power to the solenoids? Correct me if im wrong but wouldn't that let the stock trans controller "THINK" it was still controlling the trans? If it needs to detect a resistance to not throw a code then couldn't you use a (dare i say it) relay? to change over between the solenoid and a resistor? I know the relay may add a delay in the exchange in controllers but is it feasable?

Sorry i can't help more with this guys..... But you 2 are so far out of me league on this....... Makes me wonder if i can still change batteries in a flashlight correctly. LOL

Dingo

 

[vetteboy]

How hard would it be to just display an "A" for auto mode. That way you could put the display up high and know if your in auto or manual mode.

Probably pretty difficult, honestly...IIRC he's using a 7-segment LED driver that is preset with the pin combinations to form the numbers.

I guess if you really wanted to do it, you would tell it to display 8, and have a single gate inline with the bottom-most segment that you could use to kill that one on request to form an A, or leave it there for showing a 2 or 3...

 

[Fletchs90xj]

are you asking to have it re-engage the TC if it was previosly in that mode?

He's the thing guys n gals, this is a "Simple" logic controller. Wanting more functions would be better done by a micro controller.

The difference between it being in auto mode and manual is pretty obviouse. "hey why am I at 6grand and still in first". Just like driving a manual tranny this unit needs driver input and thought, like not leaving it in 3rd with the TC locked at a stop light, this will cause your engine to stall.

the stock controller does not default to any thing, [other then when it is off your control is through the floor shifter [D=4th,3=3rd,1-2=1st]]
The third default is from the manual controller. I designed it this way cause if you were to turn it on on the highway it would be bad to start at first and if you are at a stop it will not cause any harm to be in third you just have to shift down before you go or lug the engine up to speed.
The switch over between the two units is done by cutting the power to the stock controller and switching it to the manual controller.
Although the Idea of having it switch the solinoids instead and putting the stock controller on "Dumby" loads may be the solution to the 97+ check light.

 

[vetteboy]

I did a lot of work with basic stamps a few years ago, those would be a fine choice if you wanted to get more elaborate with this project. They make a small solder-it-yourself kit with all board mounted components that would be fairly easy to work with, and you get 16 lines of assignable I/O to play with.

I would trust the combination of logic gates used here a little more, because I'd think the Basic stamp components are a little bit too sensitive to be used in the harsh environment of a car...but it would be something to start with at least.

 

[Dingo509]

are you asking to have it re-engage the TC if it was previosly in that mode?

Yes, basically have it work like a clutch. Disengage to shift gears then immediately re-engage.

Here's the thing guys n gals, this is a "Simple" logic controller. Wanting more functions would be better done by a micro controller.

OK I'm starting to get it. like i said i really have a very little experience with electronics, analog (switches relays etc.) i understand. But I'm learning the slowly.

The difference between it being in auto mode and manual is pretty obviouse. "hey why am I at 6grand and still in first". Just like driving a manual tranny this unit needs driver input and thought, like not leaving it in 3rd with the TC locked at a stop light, this will cause your engine to stall.

right i was more looking at though on a long drive and you have it manual with the TC locked then you get the freeway exit and forget to turn it off. I know the exits around here can be nasty and you really don't have time to look down at the shifter. At least not driving a 3ton truck on 36"

the stock controller does not default to any thing, [other then when its off you control is through the floor shifter [D=4th,3=3rd,1-2=1st]]
The third default is from the manual controller. I designed it this way cause if you were to turn it on on the highway it would be bad to start at first and if you are at a stop it will not cause any harm to be in third you just have to shift down before you go or lug the engine up to speed.

OK so if I'm correct then if your in drive and you come to a stop and want manual mode, you would turn it on, then have to downshift twice to start in 1st? There's nothing wrong with that I'm just trying to figure it out.

Although the Idea of having it switch the solinoids instead and putting the stock controller on "Dumby" loads may be the solution to the 97+ check light.

See maybe I'm good for something after all!!!

My experience with a tiptronic controller came from me having a 2001 Dodge Stratus coupe, basically a Mitsubishi Eclipse. I had planned to actually use that exact shifter in the XJ. You had a small light on the display in the cluster that listed the basic gears PRND with a small LED by each, then next to that showed the gears 4321 and another LED for the Autostick setting. So that's what I'm used too. As far as the operation it auto-mode it worked like the AW$ does now. in Autostick (tiptronic) mode it locked the TC in all gears unless there was a brake input. it would unlock to shift and lock up again immediately after.

Now with all that said, that's what i was "hoping" for. I am learning slowly that cannot be obtained easily. Which is fine. The next best thing to this is Brents which i believe uses relays? After that you step into the $500 or more range. it will do anything but you have to have a computer to program it.

So please guys don't think I'm complaining about the way this controller works. I'm not! I just wasn't sure what it took do do something like this. You too could have went together, produced and sold these and probably made a bunch on them. THANK YOU for offering the plans and doing the leg work to produce a working model than we can get easily and cheaply.

You guys are gods. Keep up the excellent work!
Did both of you (Fletchs90xj, antonxj) go to school for this or did you teach yourselves? any good books or websites you'd recommend for us beginners? So we can learn at least enough to realize how complicated this stuff really is?

Thanks again

Dingo

 

[Fletchs90xj]

The reason I didn't make it have the TC tock up right away is cause you don't always want it to, like when going up a hill, or offroad when you want to creep a long. Just gives you more driver input without having to worry about a clutch.

I went to BCIT which is a technical institute in my Province [Canadian version of a state ] and I work as a repair tech for automated lighting used in conserts. This project I just thought up one day at lunch and I have all these dusty old chips laying around to play with so I built the proto which you see pictured above. [scary thing]
Check out these sites for beginer stuff
Electronics club
Doctronics
simple electronics
some fun projects and labs to do there.

 

[Mur145]

I've been following this thread since go-jeep put a link to it in the Aus jeep forum and its looking great!:worship:

How hard would it be to just display an "A" for auto mode.
Dingo

It would be alot easier to just use a double pole switch on the "on" switch for the unit and use that to turn on a dash light.

 

[Mur145]

:doh: It doesnt evan need a double pole switch, but a simple "on" light would be really easy to do

 

[Fletchs90xj]

Or maybe the display being ON would tell you that you're in manual mode. :wave1: sry too easy.:anon:

 

[Mur145]

lol, ah k, i had no idea what the display did with it in auto mode...

 

[Dingo509]

Or maybe the display being on would tell you that you're in manual mode. :wave1: sry to easy.:anon:

Duh!!!! ok never thought of that!

Dingo

 

[antonxj]

Looks good Anton, are you going to sell an encosure complete version?

Funny Thing about that enclosure, I was over at my supplier and saw it lying on his shelf, as it look to be about the right size i bought it, was cheap also...Got back and was dumb struck as to what a perfect fit the PCB was in it , made me feel like a :star: Anyway there was like 10 of them on his shelf so i'm sure it is a stock item and yes i'll offer it with the PCB

pretty, i want one!

yeah and i'll bet your not the only one..lol

i am very much in love with this project, i just wish i had more to offer than more ideas

Ideas is what keep these projects alive..your idea might just lead to another project..so keep it coming!

Makes me wonder if i can still change batteries in a flashlight correctly

Hey, I get those wrong all the time..lol (once put them in upside down and the light came out the back...):looser:

......... in Autostick (tiptronic) mode it locked the TC in all gears unless there was a brake input. it would unlock to shift and lock up again immediately after.

Now with all that said, that's what i was "hoping" for. I am learning slowly that cannot be obtained easily. Which is fine. The next best thing to this is Brents which i believe uses relays? After that you step into the $500 or more range. it will do anything but you have to have a computer to program it.

well it can be done pretty easy, but here is the thing. The xj is an off-road vehicle and as such you want to have a good amount of engine braking while going down a steep hill in low range (something that the AW4 does with the use of valves when you select 1-2 on the stick) in triptronic mode you would be in D so the AW4 will not have the added benefit of the Valve adding to the engine braking and to compensate for that you could use the TC lock (it works like a clutch) but then it must not unlock when it receives a brake input,as you would use the brake to help slow things down. On an onroad vehicle this would be no issue and the design could be just like you where used to..or not use triptronic offroad but then what's the point in having it? Is it more clear now as to why Fletch made it the way it is?

You too could have went together, produced and sold these and probably made a bunch on them. THANK YOU for offering the plans and doing the leg work to produce a working model than we can get easily and cheaply.
You guys are gods. Keep up the excellent work!
Did both of you (Fletchs90xj, antonxj) go to school for this or did you teach yourselves? any good books or websites you'd recommend for us beginners? So we can learn at least enough to realize how complicated this stuff really is?

Now i don't know about you Fletch, but that is the best damm compliment I received..ever!! SO THANK YOU!...it inspires me to do even more of the same

have a look here it explains some of the components that this very circuit uses


PS: I think an addition to this mod would be to install a shift light... just incase you forget what the gear indication is trying to tell you ... lol

Thanks again