AW4 Tiptronic Controller

[Dingo509]

I for one would be very interested in at least seeing the pictures of what you have come up with for the PCB.

I also have a few question.
How many layers did the board end up having? I dried to design a board and keept having to do at least 3 layers. Probably didn't have the components in the right spot, but im teaching myself electronics as i go.

Let's see what you got and keep us informed!

Dingo

 

[antonxj]

I also have a few question.
How many layers did the board end up having?

only 2 layers, but i had to use alot of vias "thru holes" in order to cross between top and bottom layer. it is possible to use "bridge components" for this purpose but it would make the board more complicated, needs to be K.I.S.S. for the non techies out there.

I dried to design a board and keept having to do at least 3 layers. Probably didn't have the components in the right spot, but im teaching myself electronics as i go.

lol :worship: yes i also almost DRIED up..:cheers: ..kiddin...hhmmm i think you where trying to keep the tracks from crossing even on the different layers maybe? remember that the track on one layer may not cross but not so for tracks on different layers ... there is no connection between layers on a board unless you make a connection via a plated thru hole..still with me? going off topic here i gues.:eye:

ok let me find somewhere to host the pics of the top and bottom layer and ill post the url here.

 

[antonxj]

ok here goes
this is the top layer

and this is the bottom layer

note: all holes are "thru hole plated"
i made pads for all the external connectors, just solder in some extension wires or even ribbon cable if you have, this makes putting the push buttons and gear indicator display anywere in remote locations possible! refer to kevin's schematic for the pinouts for the 7 seg display you need to get a common cathode 7 seg display tho

i will have to test and tweak this PCB so if you use it as above there might be some bugs this is just a prototype

err kevin can you have a look and let me know if you spot something out of place :wave:

 

[Fletchs90xj]

Haven't had a close enough look at the PCB yet, but one thing I will mention is the spacing for the heat sink on the TIP120s I used a common heat sink for these [keep in mind that it is V+ on the heat sink surface so do not attach to a metal case that will be ground. you could also use an isolation pad behind each transistor. Look like a good job. Thanks for putting that together antonxj :cheers: . I haven't had time myself to make a PCB I just put all the componets on a PCB proto board and soldiered jump wires. [what a rats nest :laugh3: ]. I'll have a closer look at it later at let you know if I spot any errors.

Fletch

 

[antonxj]

oops..:rattle: you are right, i just used TIP141 (TO-218 package)footprints for the routing of the board cause thats what I had in my PCB prog. with similar base,emiter and collector pinouts. forgot to look up on the TIP120's package tho...i see its a TO 220 will have to sort that right away, lucky there is a lot of space at that end of the board for changes probably use a single heat sink for all three so they will have to turn sideways. if we stay with the TIP141 their higher rating could possible let us drop the heat sink all together...maybe?

like i said the PCB is in proto stage now so wait for a final release before any of you use it.

I also reduce the size of the PCB its much cleaner also.

ps: I also looked at using a proto board and jump wires but thank god you did all the hard work for us...:roll: lol maybe you must post a pic of your rats nest will be good for a laugh and give the non techies an idea of what it takes to do projects like this.

 

[Dingo509]

ps: I also looked at using a proto board and jump wires but thank god you did all the hard work for us...:roll: lol maybe you must post a pic of your rats nest will be good for a laugh and give the non techies an idea of what it takes to do projects like this.

I agree i would love to see the mess you created to handle such a complex (for us non-techies) system.

Dingo

 

[Gojeep]

Be great too if I could post, along with the file I am hosting, pictures of the layout like above when you have it sorted.

 

[antonxj]

Be great too if I could post, along with the file I am hosting, pictures of the layout like above when you have it sorted.

G'day mate, :wave:

I think this ball is starting to roll now...between fletch yourself and me, we can turn this into a nice little mod project! :clap: a Global one at that seeing that you are Down under, me here in good ol' sunny SA and fletch in the U S of A....... ahhh the wonders of the net.

I will let you have all the files and layouts once it is done and we can do a nice little writeup to add to it.. I can just see every AW4 tranny equiped vehicle sporting a set of Aston Martin paddle shifters in the near future!

 

[antonxj]

Ok so i'm sitting here pondering over this project and i need some input

So far this is a d.i.y project offered free to anyone interested, you just need to source all the parts and solder it all together, but the design is offered here free and for my part that is the way it will stay although it is taking up alot of late nites of my time i really don't mind.:sad1:

Now my question is this: Would anyone be intersted in buying the ready made PCB and components or even the fully assemble PCB, tested and working of cause, this is more for the guys that do not want to risk the DIY aspect or don't have the time.

I'm not trying to make a fast buck here, its just that i have to order the PCB now and the more i order the cheaper they become, 1 prototype board is very expensive but that is cost i will have to absorb even if i want just 1 PCB for myself, i just think it is stupid if all of us pays the development cost for the same PCB at the end of the day.

It will be very cheap tho..not sure yet but basically cost + little labour + shipping and the exchange rate is in your favor also $ - ZAR = 8.6 to 1. probably be less than $30 is that too much? Also i will ship to anyware in the world and to make it risk free you can have the goods keep it for 30 days and if you keep it pay me, if you don't return it at no charge (risk free) but you must return it or i'll come get it:fuse:

IF enough interest is shown i could even send a batch of them to Kevin Fletcher Designs(USA) and also some to go-jeep(Aus) so you guys can obtain them locally

The quality of the PCB will be good, have a look at your PC mother board, thats how good, and the solder joints will be even better.

so lets see what the interest is so i can calculate how many of these boards i might order, also ask around the forums and some of your friends please.

Oh yes and this is not an advert it is a poll, please see it as such

thanks

Anton

PS: Fletch will get one for free:shhh:

 

[rpyne]

I would buy a bare board.

 

[Fletchs90xj]

G'day mate, :wave:

Down under, me here in good ol' sunny SA and fletch in the U S of A....... ahhh the wonders of the net.

actually I am from a little north of the USA, I live in Vancouver BC, CANADA

Thank you guys for all your efforts. And Anton I of coarse want a 50% cut on PCB sales. [jk]

 

[Fletchs90xj]

Ok everyone here are some pics of my controller
This the rats nest brain
The brain wired in and then tucked up under the lower dash on the passenger side
The shift controls. The 2 silver switchs are Tiptronic/Auto mode, and the other is Incab winch control enable. Then in the coin tray is the UP/DN shift switch, TC lockup [red button], then winch control and of coarse the ARB switchs in the back ground.
And the gear selection display

All works good, But as a typical automatic driver it was taken some getting used to forgetting to down shift after coming to a stop and trying to get going in 3rd or 4th :sad1:

Any how, Enjoy guys

Fletch

90 XJ 4.0 AW4 w/Tiptronic 242
D30 Currie HP9 disc all round
4.10 ARB both ends
OBA, Xantrex 1750+
Dual Optima
K&N, Safari Snorkel
8" lift Rancho9000x w/in-cab
35"MTRs
M8000 multi mount

 

[antonxj]

actually I am from a little north of the USA, I live in Vancouver BC, CANADA

Thank you guys for all your efforts. And Anton I of coarse want a 50% cut on PCB sales. [jk]

haha guess i suck at geography, going blind aswell....ok so at least go-jeep is down under....i hope.

Anyway CANADA/USA just a litle bit off...but same deal as before.

only 50% off???? I would have ask for 50% of profits.... lol ya greedy bastard

 

[antonxj]

Ok version 1.2 of the PCB is drawn up and this is the one i'm going to send off for proto production now..will take about 3 - 5 days tho.

biggest changes are to the layout of the 3 x TIP120 power transistors in order to make fitment of a heat sink possible. Over all i also moved everything closer together.

this is top layer

and here is the bottom

i have received some feedback on my poll, but please keep it comming!:confused1

 

[rpyne]

As I look closer at this design, I have a minor concern with the 74F04 and 74F14 without any voltage regulation for Vcc. It has been a number of years since I have done any hardware design and I don't have any data books handy, but I seem to recall that their Vcc NOM was +5V. I am not saying that they won't work with a high Vcc, but I have a concern about their life.

 

[Fletchs90xj]

As I look closer at this design, I have a minor concern with the 74F04 and 74F14 without any voltage regulation for Vcc. It has been a number of years since I have done any hardware design and I don't have any data books handy, but I seem to recall that their Vcc NOM was +5V. I am not saying that they won't work with a high Vcc, but I have a concern about their life.

You are correct they are meant for 5v+. The 7404 was swapped out for a 4069 for that reason, I could not find a hystorisis gate that was in a 40xx family, so that one remains. Please do look at the revised Schmatic here which has some changes for better operation.
I guess a simple zener 5v supply could be added for that IC.

 

[rehab]

design looks really good. i would be interested in buying all the components and board if the price is right!

 

[rpyne]

You are correct they are meant for 5v+. The 7404 was swapped out for a 4069 for that reason, I could not find a hystorisis gate that was in a 40xx family, so that one remains. Please do look at the revised Schmatic here which has some changes for better operation.
I guess a simple zener 5v supply could be added for that IC.

I see, the schematic still shows 7404 but the bill of materials shows the 4069.

It is non-inverting, but take a look at the 40106.

 

[Fletchs90xj]

I see, the schematic still shows 7404 but the bill of materials shows the 4069.

It is non-inverting, but take a look at the 40106.

Sry you are correct. The PN of the inverter wasn't changed on the schematic I just did it in the BOM. The 40106 would be a suitable replacement for the 7414.

I will confess the components used were what I had available to me without having to purchase anything.
You could use a 40106 in places of the 7414. It may change the button reaction though as the hysteresis point may be different. Also the Transistor used can be different. But the values for R6-R8 may need to be adjusted to fully saturate the new transistor.
And anyone building this don't forget to give the ICs V+ and Gnd, These pins are left off on the schematic. Another note to either set high or low values to all unused logic inputs. Not doing so could make the project unstable.

Fletch

 

[vetteboy]

Another note to either set high or low values to all unused logic inputs. Not doing so could make the project unstable.

:read:

VERY important.

My first digital circuit project ever, I neglected to include pull-down resistors on all the logic inputs. There were status LED's on the output of each gate, and I could make them turn on and off just by waving my cell phone near the project. This boggled me for about two days before I realized that giving an input "nothing" was not the same thing as giving it "ground".

Suddenly I realized what all those resistor banks on PCB's were for. :sad1:

It'd be a really interesting experience to drive a truck with this controller without doing this.