JeepFreak21
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cameron Park, CA
When attaching a custom crossmember, is it necessary to sleeve the frame if it's plated with 1/4" C channel?
Thanks,
Billy
Thanks,
Billy
Last edited:
FarmerMatt said:Even 1/4 should be sleeved if you are through bolting. It will eventually start to deform in & the bolts will loosen. 1/4" will buy you a little more time before this happens. You're better off to do it right the first time than to have to go back & do it later.
Matt
JeepFreak21 said:Bummer.
XJZ said:Billy:
It's not not big of a deal because you'll have to drill the holes anyhow, now they'll just have to be slightly bigger (double the wall thickness/plus of the tube ). The welding in of the sleeves will be the easy part. Plus you have the advantage of the heavier plate to weld the sleeves to.
Put the holes through the crossmember first, jack it into place and mark and drill the holes as accurately/centered as you can. Try to be as precise because going through 1/4" plate plus the frame rail is going to be some work.
When drilling into the frame most likely the drill will wander some, so jack the crossmember back up to check the alignment of the holes, Take a dremel/file, etc. and *correct* the position of the holes. Insert sleeves, weld. Hope this makes sense. Good Luck!!
JeepFreak21 said:Yeah, I gotcha... thanks! What material should I use for the sleeve? Do I need to use DOM?
Billy
FarmerMatt said:Stop whining. Drilling holes in the side of the frame is not fun. It's very difficult to get the holes to come out straight on the other side. Consider renting a magnetic based drill press. It will clamp itself to your frame & drill a hole straight through like a press would. It would make life sooo much easier for you. The tubing for the sleeves doesn't need to be thick at all or DOM. It just needs to fit the bolt fairly well. Have fun.
Matt
vintagespeed said:Drill a small pilot hole (easier to get straight) and use a holesaw to make the final cut for the sleeve. The hole saw wont walk like a large bit would.
JeepFreak21 said:That's what I was thinking... Good stuff.
XJZ said:Sounds like a good plan. Will the holesaw work on the 1/4" plate? I'm trying that next time.
Billy, For the sleeve I used .75 x .120 wall. A 1/2" bolt fits through that nice and snug!
XJZ said:Sounds like a good plan. Will the holesaw work on the 1/4" plate? I'm trying that next time.
Billy, For the sleeve I used .75 x .120 wall. A 1/2" bolt fits through that nice and snug!
A hole saw will cut thick steel no problem. Use a 1/4" pilot hole since it's what most hole saw pilots are. Just use a really slow speed and use oil. Don't over heat the bit.vintagespeed said:Drill a small pilot hole (easier to get straight) and use a holesaw to make the final cut for the sleeve. The hole saw wont walk like a large bit would.
FarmerMatt said:Just a thought... With 1/4" material & about 1/8" original material I would be half temped to just drill & tap the outer wall. That would be 3/8" worth of thread. Use a 3/8" national fine tap & go to work.
Matt