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Anyone want to join me?

XJosh95 said:
Yeah, I put my pile under the wrench this weekend doing basically the same 2" or so lift with coil spacers and shackles. We invested around 30 man hours into it with the rear shocks still not on. If you didn't finish up the shackles and have run into any problems, let me know what problem you hit. I had a helluva time with my driver's side top shackle bolt.
Click to expand...

Yea Josh, just saw this thread and was going to send it your way so you'd feel better. We broke all four upper shock bolts and the weld nut inside the frame. Total PITA especially when you're mentally unprepared for it.

Mudshack... what year is your XJ? The older ones have 2-piece rear main seals which makes changing them considerably easier (although they leak more often... just can't win).
 
XJosh95 said:
I had a helluva time with my driver's side top shackle bolt.
Click to expand...

What was your issue? Getting it lined up, or getting it out to start with. I used up every ounce of strength getting it out. It would stick after every 1/8 turn. Had to use a breaker bar. I really thought that I had busted the spot welds on the nut in the frame, and what I was doing was only pulling each spot weld over each other. But...keeping at it and checking the bolt showed the it was coming out. Just felt like I did about 200 pullups and pushups by the time it was out.

I also had one heck of a time getting the new bolt to line up. Without the shackle, it went in real easy. But with the shackle attached to the spring, I think there was just enough torque on the shackle to not have it line up directly.
 
I had a similar experience, but I had your fear confirmed with mine. The weld nut in the frame had broken free. I pulled the bumper off to find not nearly enough room to get into the frame. I used a cut-off wheel to open the hole up a lot. Used a sawzall to cut the end of the bolt on inside the frame. Used a grinding wheel to cut the head of the bolt off. Pushed the bolt into the frame as far as I could. Cut the bolt in half and pulled out the two pieces. The new bolt I put in lined up quite nicely, but I left the shackle apart from the leaf pack until I had the top bolt in. I slipped a lock washer on the inside of the frame with a nut and tightened it home. It was an experience to say the least.

I know exactly what you mean when you say it felt like you did all those pullups and pushups. We had the same thing on the passenger side. Loud snaps every little bit...finally got loose enough to use a ratchet. Brad found that the bolt had siezed itself to the bushing and was bouncing back from the rubber...It eventually came out. But, yeah, it's a job.
 
Wow.....I knew that taking the bumper off was an option, but didn't realize how much labor it was after that. THANK GOD, it didn't happen to me. Although, I swear that with all the force and snapping and popping, that I was putting more into it than an impact wrench. Which, BTW was my first plan, but I just couldn't get it to fit in there. And I didn't want to destrow my socket joints.
 
When I bought my XJ it had the pass rear shackle rusted in half. I saw it and this being my first experiance with a 20yr old jeep I didn't think much of it. I got the pass side off after lots and lots of prying and breaker bar action. We didn't have air tools at the time and it was a pain. I think it took over an hour for the drivers side and we were worn out after that one. We would get it too move about a 1/4 turn. Crank it back down and get it too move maybe 1/2 turn, back to tight. Next time got a little more, back to tight. This continued until it was out.

Now onto the rusted shackle. I got the bottom bolt out no problems, the top bolt decided that it didn't want to move. I had no problem getting the bolt to turn but the sleeve had rusted it's self to the bolt. After an hour of losen it a little and tighten it we noticed that my shackle bracket was being spread wide. I had to cut the bolt on the outside of the shackle and then as close to leaf on the inside. After the leaf fell out it gave me about 1/4" of bolt sticking out of the frame.

I was able to get a pair of vise grips on it but it wasn't moving. I damn near rounded the bolt off before I get a torch on it and 1/8 turn at a time I was able to get it out. I had to continually reheat the bolt to keep it coming. This is the 4 hour part of the project. There was much cussing, flying tools and numerous breaks to keep me from selling it.


Parakeet
 
That made my eyes go big and my head shake in awe.
 
I hear that.

Because of my experience yesterday...I am putting off the oil pan gasket and rear main seal until my next oil change is needed. Then I will have a 2nd vehicle to use, so I can just let it sit for a day or two and drain prior to digging in. You are more than welcome to join me.

Sure would be nice to know of someone that has a hydraulic lift for that job.
 
If you don't have a factory service manual before then find one on ebay or something. Don't waste the 20 bucks on a haynes or a chiltons. They are pretty much worthless. I've got the Haynes and when I did the motor swap I was constantly checking it and then throwing my hands up in frustration after I found it wasn't helpful.

Let me know when you are ready to do it and if I can break away I will. Oh and make sure that you have about 4' of extensions and a good swivel. Also you will need a set of reverse torxs. You will need those to get the top bolts that hold the tranny and engine together. If I can make it the day you are doing it I will bring my set if you don't have a set by then.


Parakeet
 
Let's just say I am not going to schedule this until I know for sure you will be available. 4 arms and 2 brains always make things go easier. I have the FSM all in PDF format so I can print up individual sections.
 
My next free weekend where I don't have something going on is going to be probally Jan or Feb. With the holidays coming up and my obligations to KS Rocks and my club affiliation, I kinda over booked myself.

I'm working the park on Nov. 14/15, then the first weekend in Dec, and I'll be back at the park for Wheeling 4 Toys the weekend after that.

And on top of this I have to find a part time job since my full time job doesn't actually bring in a check. (I'm a stay at home dad) if it paid I would be the happiest man alive.


Parakeet
 
Heated Garages are awesome....


Don't have to wait till then. Drop me a line sometime and stop by after the kiddo's game. I've got a 12yr old and 1 1/2yr old too.

Or better yet bring the kids to Wheeling for Toys. The park is less than 2 hours away. Me and a buddy will probally end up being trail guides for the 33" unlocked group. Google Brushbeaters Jeep Club and register for the forums for more info.

I'll also PM you my number.


Parakeet
 
Wow, you guys are much too committed to not cutting your XJ up a bit. I did new shackles on mine and the drivers side snapped the nut free almost instantaneously. Bumper came off (already had custom rear bumper on so it came off easy). Next was a mans dream tool - the sawzall. Opened the holes up and cut the bolts out. I probably did both sides in about 4hrs myself which included running to get more saw blades.

As for the rear main seal - unless it is year specific - your seal should be two pieces. That means you can drop your oil pan (which you want to change the seal on anyway) and then use a plier to pull the bottom one and a screw driver to push the other out. Then reverse the process to put the new one in. BIG BIG BIG - make sure you put the seal back in facing the correct direction!! I did an engine rebuild on mine ('92 XJ) and we made the mistake of putting that in backwards...very frustrating. Thank goodness it was 2-piece else the tranny would have to come out. The job shouldn't take but a few hrs to clean up your pan and reseal it onto that 4.0 after doing the rear main.

Hope that gives you some courage.
 
Oh don't be mistaken I am fully commited to cutting if need be. When I did mine it was the sleeve in the leaf bushing that rusted to the bolt. I'm still on the factory nuts w/ no holes.

I've got 4.5" of lift and could easily fit 35's with the right bumpstops, thanks to the fender trim. Soon it will be getting the rockers cut out and replaced with 2x6x3/8.



Parakeet
 
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