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Anyone in SD able to help change a head gasket?

01_XJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Emporia, KS
After chasing down cooling issues this whole week, I just looked in my oil cap and saw the dreaded chocolate milk look. I just got finished replacing the water pump, all hoses, t-stat, temp sensor, and had a leak fixed in my radiator, and now this. I overheated it pretty bad last week, which I'm assuming is what caused the head gasket to go, since it wasn't like that earlier last week.

Ideally, I'd like to dig into this as soon as possible, but it's been quite a few years since I've done it and always had some help, so I don't want to do it alone. If anyone could help out, I can provide the food/soda/beer/etc or maybe a few bucks if it's necessary. BTW, I'm in the Clairemont area, just up Gennessee from Mesa College. The jeep drives fine right now, so I'm pretty sure I could get it somewhere else if needed, too. I have a basic tool set, sockets, pliers, etc., but no hoist or anything to get the head out.
 
Wish I could help, but I'm a bit far away. I've done a bunch of headgaskets and Its a pretty simple job compared to most other cars. Also, make sure the head isn't cracked.
 
your best bet would be to pull the head and send it to a machine shop and have them check it over and make sure the bottom is still flat, if they overheat real bad the mounting surface on the bottom tends to warp. its cheap, and they can check it for cracks and pressure test it at the same time for not much more money.

Also, your 01 probably has the bad head casting, I believe the bad one is the 0331 casting number. They are notorious for cracking at the slightest overheating. If I was closer or had more free time I'd come down and help. they only special tool you really need is a 12pt deep socket for the headbolts, took us some driving around to find one when we did Brendan91XJ's head awhile back. taking it off is simple just unplug everything, and take the bolts out. when putting it back in it helps to have someone whos done it before and knows the torque specs and the tightening sequence, but that info is in the repair manuals as well.

good luck! try to keep the manifolds attached to the head when you pull it, and remove them once the head is out of the jeep. much easier to get at the bolts that way!
 
I could come by and give you a hand after work one day, monday,wednesday or thursday work best for me
 
your best bet would be to pull the head and send it to a machine shop and have them check it over and make sure the bottom is still flat, if they overheat real bad the mounting surface on the bottom tends to warp. its cheap, and they can check it for cracks and pressure test it at the same time for not much more money.

Also, your 01 probably has the bad head casting, I believe the bad one is the 0331 casting number. They are notorious for cracking at the slightest overheating. If I was closer or had more free time I'd come down and help. they only special tool you really need is a 12pt deep socket for the headbolts, took us some driving around to find one when we did Brendan91XJ's head awhile back. taking it off is simple just unplug everything, and take the bolts out. when putting it back in it helps to have someone whos done it before and knows the torque specs and the tightening sequence, but that info is in the repair manuals as well.

good luck! try to keep the manifolds attached to the head when you pull it, and remove them once the head is out of the jeep. much easier to get at the bolts that way!


x2, take it to a machine shop to get it checked.

It's not as big of a job as you think. The furthest back headbolt can be a bit of a pain to deal with though.

On a side note, I have a 2000 with the 0331 head, and it is a concern that it will crack, BUT I had a 95 that had one crack, and a 98 4-cyl that cracked. Neither of those are 0331.
 
Thanks for the info. I'll PM you, Homebrew. So, I know it's a stupid question, but since this is my only vehicle to get around, is it possible to drive a little if needed?
 
thats a sticky one. I wouldn't, you don't want to cause anymore damage than has already been done. Maybe you could get some of that head gasket repair stuff that you pour in, im not sure what negative affects that has but it may enable you to drive it around.
 
13mm, not half inch.

If there is water in your oil don't drive it, water and oil don't mix, you'l damage the bearings, cam, crank, etc.
 
I didn't drive it at all. It just sucks because I'd usually be able to at least get around on a bike, but that's in my storage unit right now. I gotta go down to it tonight to get my tools, so I night try to get the bike also, just in case I need it.
 
Its easy, pull the head, take it tp machine shop, I recomend Ricks machine shop in lake side, I have had tons of stuff there, including a couple heads. Use a good gasket, I would recomend going to jeep and getting a factory head gasket, and all the others just the basic fel-pro stuff. and make sure everything is to tourq specs. Iv done it few times/
 
I work right up the street from you man. Though i've never done a H.G. I'm sure i'm sure i could be of some help? What day you gonna tackle this?
 
He's wanting to do it tomorrow, I'll be able to stop by after work for a little bit but swapping out a head gasket could easily take 6-8 hours. He's getting started early so hopefully all goes well and by the time I get there it'll just be a matter of putting everything back together.
 
So.... He has a replacement already? Maybe i missed that part...

Ok i went back a re read. Is he going to get it checked and re sufaced or just do a gasket and risk having to do it over?
 
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