So I pull a trailer everyday and with my 33's under stock axles i really need to regear. but I don't want to put money into the 35 that's in the rear as of now. However it's a 97 with antilock brakes I can't seem to find anywhere on what I can do to to the rear without changing my entire braking system. Anyone have any sugesstions? I even looked at MORE 8.8 swap kit and they said it wasn't compatible with antilocks.
I have a 1999 Cherokee Sport with ABS. I also wanted a "better" axle than the Dana 35. I also wanted to keep the ABS for my XJ. I tow a boat and I like the ABS in bad weather. So I upgraded my rear axle to a XJ Dana 44 and moved the ABS sensors over to it using the thread by fyrfytr1717. His explanation with pictures will get you through the process. I recommend it.
I used an 8.25 29 spline axle. I also used ZJ disc brakes, ABS sensor and tone rings. I had a step machined in the back of the 8.25 flange, hollowed out the tone ring and had a spacer made.
Aside from the wrangling and dumbasses posting unrelated/incomplete info, that thread is great. Glad you posted real info after you got it working!
So now I know of fyrfytr's writeup on ABS on the 44, Talyn's writeup on ABS on the 8.25... anyone done ABS on the 8.8 yet? I am looking to mount the sensors and tone rings from a WJ on mine for my poor man's electronic locker project but haven't really done much except think about it and scratch my head yet. From the factory, it's got the same tone-ring-on-carrier setup that the libby 8.25 has. And no, the ABS HCU will almost certainly not be pleased by splicing that single sensor to both of its rear sensor inputs
Not to disagree with Begster because all we are talking about here is a difference of opinion but I have been very satisfied with the 10 inch drum brakes on my Dana 44. I rebuilt them prior to installation with new drums, springs, and slave cylinders. Thanks to Craiglist. They work very well for me and the parking brake works very well to hold my boat on the very steep boat ramp. The 1997 Ford Explorer I had before had a very small parking brake inside of the rotor "hat" and was not as good as the large drums I now have. Disks do cool better and clean out mud better than drums but that does not in my opinion make the stock drums bad. Lets remember the reason some XJs got the Dana 44 was for the towing package. If you are happy with the stock 9 inch brakes that you have now chances are you will be happy with the 10 inch drums. If you tow a lot in mountains you may want the disk brakes for the better cooling.
Not to disagree with Begster because all we are talking about here is a difference of opinion but I have been very satisfied with the 10 inch drum brakes on my Dana 44. I rebuilt them prior to installation with new drums, springs, and slave cylinders. Thanks to Craiglist. They work very well for me and the parking brake works very well to hold my boat on the very steep boat ramp. The 1997 Ford Explorer I had before had a very small parking brake inside of the rotor "hat" and was not as good as the large drums I now have. Disks do cool better and clean out mud better than drums but that does not in my opinion make the stock drums bad. Lets remember the reason some XJs got the Dana 44 was for the towing package. If you are happy with the stock 9 inch brakes that you have now chances are you will be happy with the 10 inch drums. If you tow a lot in mountains you may want the disk brakes for the better cooling.
I just hate those damn springs and all the stupid little bits and pieces and adjusters and crap. That, and the way they collect stuff and hold it in instead of letting all the junk and debris fall off.
I used an 8.25 29 spline axle. I also used ZJ disc brakes, ABS sensor and tone rings. I had a step machined in the back of the 8.25 flange, hollowed out the tone ring and had a spacer made.
Wow, I didn't even know that thread existed! I thought it was a new write up until I saw the dates were from back in '06. Wonder how I missed it back when I was doing all the research for my D44 ABS install? I guess ABS and 8.25 just aren't good search terms...
So, do you have any final pictures of the backing plates/sensors/mounts and the relationship between them when they are installed? I'd be curious to see how it all came together for you as I'm not familiar with the ZJ discs in the first place. Maybe you could add them to your original thread?
Also, I wouldn't mind seeing any pics you might have from back when you still had your 35 with disc brakes either. I'd be interested to see how much of a size difference there is between the ZJ and XJ tone rings.
Actually, I forgot I even posted it here back then.
The ZJ rings are larger, but the same tooth count. I don't think I have any pics comparing the two tone rings. Here is my ZJ disc brake writeup: http://www.jeep.blackonyx.net/tech/disks.htm
The only thing I would do differently is splicing the wiring harness connectors (if needed, did you check if they just plugged in?) under the rear seat instead of the sensor cables themselves. I trust my ability to weatherproof a splice but why do it if I can avoid it?
Actually, I forgot I even posted it here back then.
The ZJ rings are larger, but the same tooth count. I don't think I have any pics comparing the two tone rings. Here is my ZJ disc brake writeup: http://www.jeep.blackonyx.net/tech/disks.htm
The only thing I would do differently is splicing the wiring harness connectors (if needed, did you check if they just plugged in?) under the rear seat instead of the sensor cables themselves. I trust my ability to weatherproof a splice but why do it if I can avoid it?
That was the original plan but I don't remember why that didn't play out. weatherproofing is fairly easy. I soldered the wires together, put some die electric grease over the solder joints then slid the heat shrink over and shrunk it down. Followed up by a larger heat shrink.
I used ZJ D35 axles, so no swapping of the tone rings. The ZJ ones are just larger.
That was the original plan but I don't remember why that didn't play out. weatherproofing is fairly easy. I soldered the wires together, put some die electric grease over the solder joints then slid the heat shrink over and shrunk it down. Followed up by a larger heat shrink.
Yeah, I probably would use liquid electrical tape instead of dielectric grease but that works great :cheers: I'm just real nitpicky about my wiring. I'll have to compare wire lengths + connectors and such next time I am bored at the JY and see why the original plan didn't pan out for you.
Some good links. I'd be curious to know if that guy was successful getting the diff mounted tone ring to work with his late model ABS system. Seems that the difference between 51 teeth and 54 teeth would be just enough to cause a problem.
