Ign. switch is possible. Consider replacing or bypassing it with a toggle switch, and a push button start.
On my XJ, it turned out to be the ign. switch. I run a toggle/push button.
There were random times it would die, initially. Then one time it wouldn't start for shit. Bypassed the ign., and other than the starter relay failing at some point. Haven't had the issue since.
Ign switch is on the mid/lower part of the column. Not real difficult to swap. Other than being kind awkward. Not bad if you pull the lower dash panel for more access. Don't remember exactly which wires to splice. I'll have to take a look at my xj when it's not raining
I just swapped the columns out on my xj. The switch isnt very had to swap at all. 8mm socket. The hardest part was getting the wires out of the connections
Ign switch is on the mid/lower part of the column. Not real difficult to swap. Other than being kind awkward. Not bad if you pull the lower dash panel for more access. Don't remember exactly which wires to splice. I'll have to take a look at my xj when it's not raining
Not on the GM style columns.. If you look under the dash, about halfway down the column on The ign. switch is held on by 2 bolts/nuts whatever, and has 2 connectors attached to it, and a metal rod that goes from the lock cyl.
Not on the GM style columns.. If you look under the dash, about halfway down the column on The ign. switch is held on by 2 bolts/nuts whatever, and has 2 connectors attached to it, and a metal rod that goes from the lock cyl.
yup its pretty easy .two 8mm nuts hold it on. (the light switch is also held on by on of the nuts).. its a pretty simple swap and should take less then 15 mins.
yup its pretty easy .two 8mm nuts hold it on. (the light switch is also held on by on of the nuts).. its a pretty simple swap and should take less then 15 mins.
swapped out the ignition switch and the coil, bypassed the ballast resistor, cleaned the c101, new battery terminals, cleaned the fuse block, and cleaned a bunch of sensor connections, cleaned some bad crimps into the o2 sensor harness. been driving it and it hasn't died since the one time. it was very odd that it died out of nowhere and is now running fine.
I mean it was running fine before that random dying on the GF too, and since. but I did all this to help ensure it does not happen again since so many sensors are new, already did bigger ground wires, and so many other new parts.
If it does it again, I am thinking CAM sensor or fuel pump/fuel screen related. it had good fuel pressure the last time I checked.
Noticed the MJ idles like crap when its first started , and almost wants to die, idle goes down to like 250rpms.
TPS tests fine and CPS is brand new.
wiggling the c101 does nothing.
threw a multimeter on the TPS while idling and voltage was fine
readjusted the TPS just a hair on the engine side and nothing changed
threw a fuel pressure gauge on it. while idling it will stay at 34-36 psi, then it surge up to 39-40 sometimes. I am wondering if its a fuel delivery issue ?
the funny thing is, it has a ton of power for 33s and stock gears, and pulls really well, its just at idle speeds it wants to die, very odd.
IAC and FPR are almost brand spanking new, very low miles. Ford injectors.
voltage drops down to the edge of the red and one of the pulleys is making a bad bearing noise, my money is on the alternator. could a bad alternator cause it to idle crappy but run good?
Bad grounds maybe?
No joke on the good power on 33'S. I was super impressed when I threw my 33'S on my old mj with the stock 3.07s. Almost made me think about just keeping the gears stock and pumping up the motor.
Bad grounds maybe?
No joke on the good power on 33'S. I was super impressed when I threw my 33'S on my old mj with the stock 3.07s. Almost made me think about just keeping the gears stock and pumping up the motor.
took the 4.7 WJ to truckee this weekend. Thing was floored going 45mph up the passes on highway 80 . Seems to downshift kind of early too and wont downshift while flooring it some times. Only running basically a 32" street tire on this thing. Kind of odd.
Ordered 4 new NGK o2 sensors for it, and I am leaning towards a bat cat converter since gutless up hill is a symptom.
Going to order a new muffler and cat and tail pipe and see how that helps
In town it can 75mph ok in/around sacramento, just going uphill it kinda sucks , especially higher elevations.
yeah it seems off to me. Ive read about guys towing with a 4.7 WJ on stock gears going 70 mph up the mountains on 32s.
I am going to check the rear brakes to see if they are dragging too.
If the O2 sensors don't do it, and brakes are not dragging, I might try a new cat and muffler to rule out exhaust restrictions.
I can get it all pretty cheap on amazon. Also going to look into tranny issues concurrently since it seems to downshift way too early, climbing steep hills in the last gear instead of holding a lower gear to say 3000 rpms.
TPS is brand new.
Thing seems to have a ton of power 1,2, and can haul ass in 2, but that tops out at 45mph, but when I shift into D it seems to downshift crazy early and just seems gutless. Thats the reason for me thinking of exhaust restrictions, since it seems to really be noticeable on hills , at the top end.
going to look for exhaust leaks too, but I did find 3 of them when we first got it and fixed them at the manifold.
I should check all the tranny connections and drain and fill the pan again. I added a tranny drain plug.
If you have OBD2 carts for your MT2500, you should be able to plug it in to the WJ.
Could potentially be a TCU/ECU, electical issue as well. Not sure if he has had issues with trans/your problem. But I would message Zachandandy , since he has a V8 ZJ.
