anomaly on the Jeep + reward

dabeersboys said:
And that could cause My problem huh? I'll check it out... Do i replace it, or tighten it or what?
Click to expand...
replace
 
90% chance its the fuel pump. Back before my dad got the 98 zJ repo'd its did the same thing.

Idled pefectly fine. Anything more than half throttle caused bucking. Taking turns on the throttle caused bucking. Replaced and tuned sensors. It was the fuel pump. Thats why Im so sure it your fuel pump.

Also with half tank of gas i could give it more throttle and condition worsens with less gas in the tank.
 
I am going to agree with the bosch plug conspiracy and it is not only on 87-90's. I just picked up a 2000XJ and it was doing the same shit. Replaced the TPS and got nothing, had the Bosch platinum 4 prong POS plugs in it so I replaced them with $1.50 autolite plugs and it runs great now!
 
I had the same exact issue with mine. After pulling the tank 4 or times, and replacing a host of fuel items, I found the problem after 4 and 1/2 of searching. By this time I had all the fuel drained and replaced with octane booster and uther additives and throwing a box of matches was my next alternative. I found that it was the CPS Wire at the back of the engine possibly shorting out on the exaust manifold. I tied it back away with a zip tie and havent had one issue since.


Cody
 
It was going to take until the 9th to get the fuel pump and sending unit. I left on the 9th for chicago. So when I get back I'll order it and Let you guys know... CPS is routed perfectly...
 
dabeersboys said:
It was going to take until the 9th to get the fuel pump and sending unit. I left on the 9th for chicago. So when I get back I'll order it and Let you guys know... CPS is routed perfectly...
Click to expand...

Did we ever find out which spark plugs are installed?
 
Check to insure that the spark plug wires are good. I had a bad wire on a new set I installed one time. Ran fine below 50 mph. Anything more caused extreme shaking and bucking.
 
Autolite plugs... We just replaced the fuel pump. No change. I'm having a hard time finding a sending unit especiall for a non bosch fuel pump.
I think were going to start replacing injectors next sound like a good Idea?
-Matt
 
I've been thinking more about your problem.

You said that this ONLY happens when moving and not idling.

===

When you say that the vehicle "Dies" do the dash/radio controls also go out, or do they stay on?
In other words, do you have a total electical loss or not?

If you have a total electrical loss, then I would not necessarily focus on fuel.
If you don't have a total electrical loss, then it MIGHT be the fuel.

===
 
Last edited:
cap and rotor are all good. Talked to a friend I havn't seen in a while who's a mechanic and said that some older chrystler oil pump sending units can make the car die. does anyone know this to be true on the renix? or what do you guys think about that? The oil pressure guage does twitch right before it dies..
 
I imagine the twitchy gauge is becuase the alternator voltage is fluctuating as the motor dies. I still say it's fuel related. :D
 
Just my rusty 2 cents, but I am having to replace my CPS (crank). Haynes describes an electrical test to troubleshoot. On 1992 and earlier models : Disconnect the CPS connector. Your meter should show no continuity (open) when tested across the A and B terminals (supposedly marked on connector). If anything else shows, replace. It's worth a shot before you put anymore $$$ into it. Sorry man.

Some will argue that this isn't necessarily definitive, and I agree that your issue might seem a bit drastic for this....especially just turning your wheel. However the bucking/stumbling issue on the freeway is right there. Anybody wondering about the stator?

Have you checked/replaced your in line fuel regulator? That could be a delivery issue too.
 
tbrunson said:
Just my rusty 2 cents, but I am having to replace my CPS (crank). Haynes describes an electrical test to troubleshoot. On 1992 and earlier models : Disconnect the CPS connector. Your meter should show no continuity (open) when tested across the A and B terminals (supposedly marked on connector). If anything else shows, replace. It's worth a shot before you put anymore $$$ into it. Sorry man.

Have you checked/replaced your in line fuel regulator? That could be a delivery issue too.
Click to expand...
Thanks alot. I have already replaced the CPS. and still no change. I've done a fuel pressure test and have removed the vaccume on the regulator and everythign is testing fine... Since I think i have an extra one laying around, I may replace it for shiggles.

Now the VSS, That shouldn't cause the vehicle to shut off... So I don't belive i should even replace that... Correct me if I'm wrong thought.

I'm applying for a new job. If I get the job, I'm going to either save up 1500 bucks to buy a new heep, or put some money into a shop to see if they can figure out and fix this mother.

I don't know much much more i can take of this thing sitting, and hearing about how it's not working... Good thing she only lives a 5 minute walk to work, reguardless, it needs to be fixed!'
Keep them coming guys. again, thanks again Every one!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

B
TPS troubles
Replies
2
Views
222
Blaines2399
B
0
Voltmeter reads low compared to battery until a few seconds after the motor is started?
Replies
5
Views
85
techno
T
J
Rough idle and codes p0300, p0301. Tough time diagnosing but finally found the problem.
Replies
4
Views
492
Jeepin789
J
U
1993 Jeep XJ
Replies
3
Views
235
Unclewolverine
U
A
95 4.0 RHD (UK) crank no start
Replies
9
Views
297
ahyland
A
Back
Top