Frank Z
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado Springs
Not sure if this has been asked yet, but have you checked the entire vaccum system yet? Get a can of starter fluid and spray each vaccum line joint.
anomaly on the Jeep + reward
- Thread starter dabeersboys
- Start date
jragan
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado Springs
Would really be interested if some one could comment on the VSS. I have driven this jeep and from day one I felt the transmission was acting up. Being an electric transmission and tied in to the computer, I would think it could make the jeep shutdown. ??
Yucca-Man
NAXJA Member # 683
- Location
- Castle Rock, CO
A dead/faulty VSS won't shut the engine down - can't tell you how long I drove with a dead one in my '96.
Going to go back and re-read this thread...
Jim www.yuccaman.com
Going to go back and re-read this thread...
Jim www.yuccaman.com
YELLAHEEP
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Littleton, Colorado
I dunno, sounds like it could be the electrical ground to the vehicle. Check the condition of the battery cables - especially the smaller gauge ones going to the ground on the inner fender and the power to the relay/fuse box behind the battery. Bend them and listen for crunchy sounds, cut the insulation and look for corrosion in the wire.
Corrosion in the wiring can infiltrate the wiring harnesses too, so look at the inside of the sensor connectors for the green crusties.
Corrosion in the wiring can infiltrate the wiring harnesses too, so look at the inside of the sensor connectors for the green crusties.
Stang5lgt
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Parker, CO
I had the same prob with my 89 XJ drove me nuts. It was ignition prob. I replaced Distributer, ignition module, and coil. Then it was fine. The pick up in the distributer gets hot it can fail. Drove it 15k miles since then prob free. I replace one at a time coil was last.
goodburbon
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Westcliffe Colorado.
Frank Z said:
2 winters ago I had a cold start problem, Jeep would fire right up then die immeadately. Would not restart without a WOT (clear flood) condition. Never thought it could be my super expensive, brand new, really cool high performance spark plugs. Since I started using Champions and NGK's \the problem immeadetly went away and has never reappeared. That reminds me, it's been a long time since I have changed my dist cap and rotor( since just before the problem started).
I'm just one of a thousand stories like this out there.
dabeersboys
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado Springs
Stang5lgt said:
Coil was replaced I believe, and she told me her dad and her replaced the distributer. Come to find out she was wrong and didn't know what she was talking about so the distributer is my next try. and one have one laying around?
-Matt
Stang5lgt
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Parker, CO
I have one and spare ignition module you can try.dabeersboys said:
dabeersboys
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado Springs
Just before I do change the Distributor, I want to know if you all think that could be my problem? I guess its worth the try but I'm sick of useless spending?
Thanks so much for all of your time on this post.
Thanks so much for all of your time on this post.
it could be, if the distriubotr is cracked and allowing moisture in then it could be arcing inside.
Look for carbon tracks on the inside of the cap.
as a fellow renix owner that went through a lot of this (mine would stop running if you were at WOT above 3K RPM) Go back and replace the fusible links.
They test good, they show the prooper voltage, but they can be partially burnt or broken and not allow enough current.
They're cheap, and they're 20 years old, so consider it preventitive maintenance.
I'd also check into the ground strap at the back of the head and the firewall, mine looked good, but it was corroded. A new ground back there and my junk idled and drove better than I thought it could.
I also found a corroded wire connection to the fuel pump in the engine harness. Routed right below the coolant turtle, there was a factory crimped connection that was simply wrapped in duct tape and then put in the wire loom. You can't make up some of the things AMC did.
Look for carbon tracks on the inside of the cap.
as a fellow renix owner that went through a lot of this (mine would stop running if you were at WOT above 3K RPM) Go back and replace the fusible links.
They test good, they show the prooper voltage, but they can be partially burnt or broken and not allow enough current.
They're cheap, and they're 20 years old, so consider it preventitive maintenance.
I'd also check into the ground strap at the back of the head and the firewall, mine looked good, but it was corroded. A new ground back there and my junk idled and drove better than I thought it could.
I also found a corroded wire connection to the fuel pump in the engine harness. Routed right below the coolant turtle, there was a factory crimped connection that was simply wrapped in duct tape and then put in the wire loom. You can't make up some of the things AMC did.
jragan
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado Springs
OK I have Matt bring this Jeep up to my house tonight. We will be working it later tonight (9 or so) and tomorrow during the day and sunday if needed. Tried to drive it this afternoon and it died on me leaving the driveway. They have since gotten it started and I asked Matt to act as if he was driving it. Run it at 2k+ rpm for a few minutes let off the gas and hit the brake like he was coming to a stop. Did this for 15-20 minutes with no issues. The Jeep runs like a champ doing this, can not get it to stall out and you can turn it off and restarts with out any issue. Put it in gear and drive it and will stall out.. He is going to try to drive it in 1-2 gear to get it here and see what happens also. Figure this will prevent the transfercase from going into lockup. Figure if it can make it the 15 miles in lower gears and it normally will not make it a block we need to look at transmission\torque converter. If it dies and has to be towed we will start with wiring. Checking all grounds and battery cables. I know 90% plus of the sensor connections on this jeep have the tabs broke off. We will clean all connections put back together and wire tie to make sure they are not coming loose. If you have time please watch this thread. Might need other ideas and help. Will keep you posted and will look at everything everyone has posted as possible ideas as needed.
Thanks!
Thanks!
jragan
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado Springs
Update I find interesting already. Had him unplug the TPS from the transmission and drive it like a manual. Leaving it in 1-2. It will not die, drives fine. States there is some "bucking" however runs and does not stall. I drove this thing 9 months ago and pointed to transmission issue. Promise him I would not say I told you so however. Will drive it more tonight as a manual and see if we can get it to die and when... FYI new TPS and also have used one from a know working vehicle...
- Location
- Golden, CO
Just for grins, un-plug the tranny computer and take it for a spin.
No change=not the tranny computer
No change=not the tranny computer
dabeersboys
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado Springs
Ok All! we're holding our breath. My girlfriend and I replaced the main computer, cleaned the throttle body (wasn't very dirty, recently cleaned) and replaced a vaccume hose, So far after some vigurous driving, and verious speeds seems to be doing really well. I guess time will tell.
I'm going to say that it is fixed. But every time we say that thats when the troubles start again... I guess we'll see.
I'll keep you updated!
-Matt
I'm going to say that it is fixed. But every time we say that thats when the troubles start again... I guess we'll see.
I'll keep you updated!
-Matt
bigalpha
Moderator
- Location
- Tucson, AZ
Well, 12 months later, has the problem arisen again?
I had an 88 that had the engine rebuilt. After rebuilding it was doing the same thing. It took me and a few different mechanics about 6 months to figure out. It would not do it all the time and had no rhythm when it did it. Just out of the blue it would buck going down the highway, some times do it for a couple minutes some times just do it once.
We finally figured out the ignition wires were not run correctly and one had melted to the exhaust manifold causing an intermittent short in one cylinder, then the buck. The tach would drop when it bucked also. New wire and run correctly and I never had the problem again. This took a long time to get corrected, nobody checked the wires.
We finally figured out the ignition wires were not run correctly and one had melted to the exhaust manifold causing an intermittent short in one cylinder, then the buck. The tach would drop when it bucked also. New wire and run correctly and I never had the problem again. This took a long time to get corrected, nobody checked the wires.