All Gauges keep going dead, then airbag light comes on

[SuzysJ]

Our 2001 started this problem the other day. Thanks for the info provided above, all!

Has anyone tried NOALOX on these terminations? I've used it for over 20-years on BATT and lamp sockets/terminations and never had to clean them again. (Yes, buy a starter battery and never experience any corrosion on terminals; my current battery is 2005. My 2003 build date truck has the OEM batteries and terminations never have needed cleaning in 170k).

"NOALOX does exactly what it's supposed to do, both in the electrical world and ham radio antennas. That is: to impede corrosion of similar and dissimilar metals joining together to make an electrical connection. In the electrical biz, this is primarily used for Aluminum cable. It is commonly used on copper too - mostly in high current situations​

Can be found at Homer's Dept

Dielectric grease is only okay for preventing corrosion. It's sort of like WD-40 as it is better than nothing . . but it doesn't compare to KROIL .

If you use it, then wipe off any excess afterwards. Squeeze the tube to mix product up (or stir) before application.

On BATT terminals score them first (same for lamp sockets) and work in with brush.

On multi-term connectors use an applicator that allows precise coverage. Too much is not good.

Good luck

.

 

[lawsoncl]

Has anyone tried NOALOX on these terminations? I've used it for over 20-years on BATT and lamp sockets/terminations and never had to clean them again.

I would be reluctant to use it on a multi-pin connector like that, since it contains zinc and might short things out. Its great for battery lugs though. The key thing is to use a grease that keeps air out to prevent oxidation.

 

[keep0njeepin0n]

I am honored to be part of this faulty electrical connector club. Up to now, I've only been part of the dreaded death wobble club, broken center latch club, improper wheel offset and rubbing the control arms club, wobbly door hinge club, dead passenger window club, cracked exhaust manifold club, and broken driver's door speaker club. I love my XJ and all the wonderful experiences I get to deal with. It enriches my life and I am often amazed at how many others experience the same things.

:roflmao: Welcome to the club man!!

 

[talontsi_95]

My 98 does this constantly. I just hit the top of the dash above the cluster with the palm of my hand and the gauges resume operation.

 

[SuzysJ]

I would be reluctant to use it on a multi-pin connector like that, since it contains zinc and might short things out. Its great for battery lugs though. The key thing is to use a grease that keeps air out to prevent oxidation.

No, have also used it in that configuration. Key is to be careful about amount. Takes very little. Leave no slop. On my '71 Chrysler I re-did the firewall connector (mains) that way and it was great for over 10-years.

 

[JTwthaXJ]

My "97 was doing something similiar, found that too much dielectric grease will cause the same problem. But I have since clean and shot wd-40, wiped excess off.. Problem now is strictly with the Airbag light, but it prevents the horn, and the cruise control from working too. I have checked all the fuses, and connections everything appears to be okay. But that little annoying light won't go away or let me express my road rage via horn currently. Got about 8" of snow outside and headed to WV this coming weekend and want this fixed for the upcoming trip. Suggestions?

 

[willsmysticcobra]

Wish we knew what was really causing this long term lol... Mine just started doing this tonight

 

[orange]

Kinda sounds like the connector on the cluster has intermittent connections on the back side connecting to the cluster itself. (opposite end of connector pin from where all the cleaning is being done. Where it connects to cluster circuit.)

Might be worth a try to reflow the solder on all the pins.

Just a long shot guess.

Good Luck,
Orange

 

[ff4500]

I think that I smacked my dash enough times that mine reseated itself.
I haven't had the issue in a year or so.

 

[coldoath]

Have this issue. Replaced the connector on the back as the TSB said to, didn't work. Tore into the dash for a week and finally said !@#%! it and now IDC. Gauges are optional I can turn my key a bit and it gives me a accurate gas tank reading and that's about all I need.

 

[mgt]

mine did the same thing. took it to a speedo shop and they check all connections , made a couple solder a coupler connections and all is good now. its the solder connections on the circuit board. check local speedo shops.

 

[Dragonslayer]

Back again. On my '93, I went and dissected the gauge connector (on the harness end)
wire-by-wire. While I had it apart, I cleaned each connector using electrical contact
cleaner and a set on tiny self-made cotton swabs (I was amazed who much black soot
came out of each connector). I then gently squeezed each connector at the waist with
a pair of needle-nosed pliers so that they would grip each pin more strongly and put
everything back into the plastic connector block. I applied some dielectric grease on
each pin and put it back together. It took a bit more force to get the connector to slide
and snap onto the socket on the gauge pack - which I took as a good sign as each connector now grips it's respective pin more firmly.

I fired the car up and took it for a spin.

No change. The tach and speedo needles continue to dance and bounce and wave as
though they are both flippin' me the finger.

An electrical engineer balked when I told him that I had applied dielectric grease on
each pin. He never uses the stuff. Oh great ...NOW he tells me.

I'm open to any other ideas.

My '98 is OK. All I did was to press on the gauge pack further into the dash. I had
used the tips of all of my fingers and needed so much force that I thought I was going
to break the lens, or smash the gauges through the firewall. All is well since.

 

[QCXJ8879]

Having the sam problem with my 99 just started last night. We were wheeling all weekend and everything worked fine. I know we were on some washboard roads and maybe rattled something loose. I tried to pull and clean the connectors with no luck! Anyone making any progress on this problem?

 

[dishner]

My '98 is OK. All I did was to press on the gauge pack further into the dash. I had
used the tips of all of my fingers and needed so much force that I thought I was going
to break the lens, or smash the gauges through the firewall. All is well since.

I know it doesn't help much but this worked for me too. I can't believe the electrical problems these things have. In my 98, the dome light stays on all the time, until I turn on the rear defroster, then it goes off. Then the defroster won't auto-shutoff, until I turn on the domelight. Vicious cycle!

 

[QCXJ8879]

I pulled apart my dash and cleaned every plug I could find and used dielectric grease and my heap is back to normal. Well atleast for now. lol