Alexia's 1997 Comanche - 4.7L Stroker

Where did you get your freeze plugs? Intown? I'm on the hunt for some brass ones.
 
I put the r134a system in our MJ from a XJ. Its bolt in and easy to charge/maintain. I recommend using a 96 XJ for the donor. Swap from the orifice block forward.

Sorry for the hijack Alex, just wanted to show it can be done easily on any pre r134a system

Nothing of the old R12 system was retained. So all good here.

Where did you get your freeze plugs? Intown? I'm on the hunt for some brass ones.

Dorman 567017 - You will need two packages and will probably have to order them.
 
cant you get freeze plugs at any parts store?

Only place in town in stock that I found was r&r. At 5 bucks a price they were pricy....

Dorman 567017 - You will need two packages and will probably have to order them.

Yeah I've seen those just didn't know if you have been able to find anyone with the brass ones in stock.
 
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mmmmmmmm pie... pumpkin im guessing?
 
Looks good! Can't wait for the supercharger. Too bad its all time 4WD. 2wd would be really fun with all that hp.
 
Looks good! Can't wait for the supercharger. Too bad its all time 4WD. 2wd would be really fun with all that hp.

I am putting the NP321 in there for now since it is very well attached. Also, the NP242 has 2WD. I plan to get the NP242 in there eventually, but I decided to wait since most of the nuts rounded off trying to remove the NP231.
 
That full time 4wd would give a hell of a launch..


Just my experience... pavement and 4.7 launches don't end well. Neither does hard shifts into 2nd. Or 3rd. Be gentle.
 
Just my experience... pavement and 4.7 launches don't end well. Neither does hard shifts into 2nd. Or 3rd. Be gentle.

A man who speaks from experience.... LOL!
 
come on man dont tell him that.....now he's curious

After the first 500 miles anything goes.

Getting closer to starting this for the engine break in process. I am rigging up a temporary fuel system with the old XJ tank sitting on the floor underneath until I decide what to do with the fuel tank.

Bold = Done
  • Valve Cover Grommets
  • PCV Valve
  • Valve Cover Breather
  • Accelerator Cable
  • Torque Converter Bolts
  • Shifter Cable
  • Oil Pan Bolts
  • Fill With Oil
  • Prime Oil Pump
  • Transmission Lines
  • Transmission Inspection Cover
  • Radiator and Hoses
  • Coolant
  • Radiator Cap
  • Power Steering Box and Plumbing
  • Exhaust
  • O2 Sensors
  • AC Lines
 
I bought a Pacesetter header since it looked like a good deal. The down pipe comes down angling up towards the floor and frame rail. It is dangerously close to the transmission line and the placement of the oxygen sensor bung interferes with the lines. I think I am going to put a right angle piece to dump the exhaust below the frame rail and get a muffler shop to fix it once it can drive again.

The quality on this piece is questionable. :/
 
I bought a Pacesetter header since it looked like a good deal. The down pipe comes down angling up towards the floor and frame rail. It is dangerously close to the transmission line and the placement of the oxygen sensor bung interferes with the lines. I think I am going to put a right angle piece to dump the exhaust below the frame rail and get a muffler shop to fix it once it can drive again.

The quality on this piece is questionable. :/

What pipe are you going with? I did 2" from the manifold and a Flowmaster 40. The one time I have had a shop do something on my jeep they ran it too close to the oil drain plug and passenger floorboard.
 
What pipe are you going with? I did 2" from the manifold and a Flowmaster 40. The one time I have had a shop do something on my jeep they ran it too close to the oil drain plug and passenger floorboard.

Factory 2.25", flares up to 2.5" at the catalytic converter, and back to 2.25" all the way out. The clearance overall is good, but there is too much upwards bend along with not enough inwards bend. It will be an easy fix, but I will need to have a shop with a bender go at it.
 
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