Air Intake and Flow Modification Poll

[92tahoexj]

Ok, I know this poll is for off-road performance, but what about on road? I'm getting ready to pull a box trailer across the country. So, which would benefit ME more? I have a Dynomax catback and a Rusty's airtube w/ K&N cone filter right now, but was considering putting my stock airbox back in with a K&N flat panel filter. Anyone have any suggestions?

 

[jeeperjohn]

Ok, I know this poll is for off-road performance, but what about on road? I'm getting ready to pull a box trailer across the country. So, which would benefit ME more? I have a Dynomax catback and a Rusty's airtube w/ K&N cone filter right now, but was considering putting my stock airbox back in with a K&N flat panel filter. Anyone have any suggestions?

Your best bet in that case would some sort of ram air setup. You could probably use the stock airbox and attach a tube from the inlet of the airbox to a scoop of some sort mounted in the airstream below the bumper.

 

[cher96]

I used the Rusty's Tube and K&N for a long time before I changed my system. In my opinion, one could fab up a Heat Sheild for it and maybe extending the Heat Sheild as far as they could towards the front of the Engine Bay to allow the Air Filter to draw in air as close to ambient temperature as possible or do what I did and Canister the Air Filter and, as others have done, run a Tube to the Fire Wall so that it may use Cowl Air Induction for it's source of air.

Here is a Poor Person's Solution: Go to a store and purchase a huge can of Baked Beans or something else you may like, eat some, freeze some in baggies (being careful to put the baggies right side up until frozen), then cut the can open at the bottom being careful to create Flages to fit the Can Heat Sheild around the Intake Tube and tighten a large clamp around the flanges securing them to the Air Tube. Make sure the can is not touching the Air Filter to allow it to breath freely. One can possibly mount this Can Heat Sheild on the fender as well if need be. Looks Getto, however, it does perform it's funtion. One could Shaker can it with Hi Temp Black Paint or Hi Temp Paint it to match their Fender Well as close as can be before installing.

One could also use the Stock Air Box and Fab up Cowl Induction as srmitchell did to have cooler air from outside for the engine. Otherwise, a simple solution would be to go with an expensive ram style Cold Air Intake. This style Cold Air Intake introduces cooler air from outside the hot engine bay as well. However, a ram style Cold Air Intake System would allow air to flow in as close to a straight line as possible. Air flow is more easily assimilated into the engine than with the turbulent air typically sent by a Jeep Stock System.

All in all, I suggest doing as srmitchell has done and use a K&N Air Filter as, in my opinion, this would use cooler outside air forced into the Intake System through the Cowl when traveling at onroad speeds possibly negating the effects of turbulence that a Stock System has and passively allowing cooler outside air flow when driving at offroad speeds.

This is just my opinion which I hope will help out. It is my intention to have others Post Up as well.

Cowl Snorkle. True cold air, factory filtration, sealed air intake up front, and increased HP. I feel more power, and i went through 4 feet of water no prob.
Used pvc, and a spare factory intake tube. Cost 10 bucks to make.

 

[92tahoexj]

I used the Rusty's Tube and K&N for a long time before I changed my system. In my opinion, one could fab up a Heat Sheild for it and maybe extending the Heat Sheild as far as they could towards the front of the Engine Bay to allow the Air Filter to draw in air as close to ambient temperature as possible or do what I did and Canister the Air Filter and, as others have done, run a Tube to the Fire Wall so that it may use Cowl Air Induction for it's source of air.

Here is a Poor Person's Solution: Go to a store and purchase a huge can of Baked Beans or something else you may like, eat some, freeze some in baggies (being careful to put the baggies right side up until frozen), then cut the can open at the bottom being careful to create Flages to fit the Can Heat Sheild around the Intake Tube and tighten a large clamp around the flanges securing them to the Air Tube. Make sure the can is not touching the Air Filter to allow it to breath freely. One can possibly mount this Can Heat Sheild on the fender as well if need be. Looks Getto, however, it does perform it's funtion. One could Shaker can it with Hi Temp Paint to match their fender as close as can be before installing.

One could also use the Stock Air Box and Fab up Cowl Induction as srmitchell did to have cooler air from outside for the engine. Otherwise, a simple solution would be to go with an expensive ram style Cold Air Intake. This style Cold Air Intake introduces cooler air from outside the hot engine bay as well. However, a ram style Cold Air Intake System would allow air to flow in as close to a straight line as possible. Air flow is more easily assimilated into the engine than with the turbulent air typically sent by a Jeep Stock System.

All in all, I suggest doing as srmitchell has done and use a K&N Air Filter as, in my opinion, this would use cooler outside air forced into the Intake System through the Cowl when traveling at onroad speeds possibly negating the effects of turbulence that a Stock System has and passively allowing cooler outside air flow when driving at offroad speeds.

This is just my opinion which I hope will help out. It is my intention to have others Post Up as well.

I really Like this setup, unfortunatly due to funds and time(I'm moving to Indianna in a few days) It will have to wait until I get there.That being said, If I only had two options, which should I go with?
#1- RUSTY'S airtube and K&N cone filter
#2- Factory airbox and K&N flat panel filter
OR
#3- Bottom part of factory airbox and airtube so the the air pushes up towards the cone filter?

 

[cher96]

#3- Bottom part of factory airbox and airtube so the the air pushes up towards the cone filter?

Good thinking!

I believe one could fully cut out the forward face of the lower part of the Stock Air Box and fit the Rusty's Air Tube through the back of it, reinforce the Tube and seal it. I believe one would need a 90 degree Elbow (from PepBoys or similar Auto Parts Store) and a 2 to 3" Connector Tube to fit the Elbow to the Stock Intake Tube. That would be a pretty inexpensive way to Fab Up a ram style Cold Air Intake System.

Fantastic idea, 92tahoexj ! I like it, it could be used where water or mud is not an issue.

 

[92tahoexj]

i was thinking of using some sheet metal and some of that silver bubble wrap stuff used for windshield sun blockers and extend the side of the airbox up on the back and the side closest to the engine so it's almost touching the hood.

 

[cher96]

i was thinking of using some sheet metal and some of that silver bubble wrap stuff used for windshield sun blockers and extend the side of the airbox up on the back and the side closest to the engine so it's almost touching the hood.

That is possible, however, I would be cautious using Bubble Wrap Material inside the Engine Bay. If it is a Matted Material, before using it, I would propose taking a small cut off and pulling it apart to see what it is made from. If it is cardboard or a similar material, I would hesitate in using it for this purpose. IMHO

 

[92tahoexj]

That is possible, however, I would be cautious using Bubble Wrap Material inside the Engine Bay. If it is a Matted Material, before using it, I would propose taking a small cut off and pulling it apart to see what it is made from. If it is cardboard or a similar material, I would hesitate in using it for this purpose. IMHO

It looks like bubble wrap made from aluminum foil(almost like Mylar) used for the windshield to keep the inside of the car cool. I've seen some photos on here of people using it as a heat shield for there air filters. I was thinking of extending the box up on two sides with the sheetmetal and then lining those two sides(air filter side) with the sun shade bubble wrap stuff to help insulate the airbox from engine heat.

 

[cher96]

It looks like bubble wrap made from aluminum foil(almost like Mylar) used for the windshield to keep the inside of the car cool. I've seen some photos on here of people using it as a heat shield for there air filters. I was thinking of extending the box up on two sides with the sheetmetal and then lining those two sides(air filter side) with the sun shade bubble wrap stuff to help insulate the airbox from engine heat.

Sounds like a done deal. Would the two sides be the inward and back sides or inward and outward sides?

 

[92tahoexj]

Sounds like a done deal. Would the two sides be the inward and back sides or inward and outward sides?

That is correct, engine side and rear. Leaving the front and fender side open. Very similar to the AIRAID system except only two sides instead of three. I'm not sure if i'll have the time to fab it up before i hit the road though. I might just re-install the bottom of the box and use the air-tube until i get there.

 

[rarreola]

You can use your stock air box with a cone air filter and some 3" pvc

Then add some air from firewall

Cancel the front air vent If You need to get into shallow water

And some cheap heat shield

 

[cher96]

rarreola, very Innovative.

In the top photo I can see where the Valve Cover is vented into the PCV Tube. However, in the bottom photo, I can not. Did you just have it disconnected when you took the photo or have you decided to run it elsewhere?

 

[cher96]

A couple of things on Turbo (exhaust flow forced induction).

I got 500 ft/lbs and 450HP out of my 4.0 turbo.
Went 7.25 @ 100.3 in the 1/8.

Turbo Testing a Jeep 4.0 Turbo: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zWhaTvfG9I8

 

[rarreola]

rarreola, very Innovative.

In the top photo I can see where the Valve Cover is vented into the PCV Tube. However, in the bottom photo, I can not. Did you just have it disconnected when you took the photo or have you decided to run it elsewhere?

Yes, becouse the blowby, I have to reroute to the back of the air box.

 

[plymatt65]

Many posters on this thread suggest usinf "K & N" filters for perfomance mods on Jeeps used offroad. I don't believe this is good advice. While K & N makes good products, the are not intended for the conditions many of us drive our rigs in; such as very dusty, or even very wet. Their filters are made from cotton guaze reinforced with wire mesh, and covered in oil. The oil does most of the work to filter the fine particles from the incoming air and the cotton and wire mesh are for structure and large particle filtration. So, in dusty conditions the oil quickly gets clogged with dust and dirt causing a loss in airflow and performance. This is true of any oiled type air filter. These filters are designed for on track/road racing in semi controlled conditions. They are intended to lower the air restriction, not to improve, by filtration, the quality of air entering an engine. It would seem that although we all would like to gain some inexpensive horsepower that our needs would be best served by a filter that keeps our engines fed with clean air, not just more air.

I have used K & N and Airhog filters in the past on a WJ and a Toyota pu. They did give a little boost in power, But also noticed that my oil was dirtier at normal change intervals. Now in all of the vehicals I own I use Napa Gold. They are cheap, about 14 bucks for an XJ, do a good job in dusty conditions, and no cleaning and oiling ( about a 45 minute job w/ K & N).

I have recently learned about a filter from AEM called "dryflow" that is cleanable and reusable, but uses no oil. I haven't used one yet, but it may be a good alternitive to oiled filters.

This is just my experince and observation.

 

[cher96]

I have heard and read the same about K&N Cone Filters. When I received mine I looked at it very closely and thought, well it's better than the last Cone Filter I used and installed it.

Here are some AEM Products:

Jeep Cherokee 1987-1988 28-20084DK $42.59
http://www.redlinemotive.com/store/aem/aem-dryflow-panel-air-filter/jeep.asp

Jeep AEM Dryflow Panel Air Filter
The AEM Dryflow air filter is a direct replacement drop in air filter. This AEM panel air filter is designed to replace the factory air filter in your car or truck with a high flow, lifetime warranty air filter. This is the last air filter you will ever need!

Many of the cheaper replacement air filters are just that - cheap. They might make good power, but that is because they don't filter well, and allow dirt to get sucked into your engine. The AEM DryFlow synthetic air filter does not need to ever be re-oiled, and lasts the life of your car.

So how well does the AEM DryFlow air filter work? Imagine a human hair is about 100 microns wide. The AEM air filter has been proven to filter out particles as much as small as only ONE micron wide! So good at catching dirt, yet flows enough air to power large diesel trucks that require high flow air power. Each filter is built so strong, it almost impossible to collapse.


AEM Conical Dryflow Air Filter

http://www.redlinemotive.com/store/aem/aem-conical-dryflow-air-filter.asp

A revolutionary lifetime air filter media that delivers industry-leading filtration by using a non-woven polyester-based media that does not need filter oil to trap dirt and particulates. DRYFLOW is easier to clean, more durable, will not degrade with servicing and has a higher filtration efficiency than all of the cotton-gauze filters we tested.

Product Details
Element is cleanable and is guaranteed for the life of your vehicle
DRYFLOW air filter will NOT void your vehicle’s warranty
Delivers up to 99.52% filtration efficiency, based on independent SAE J276 JUN93 FINE DUST Air Cleaner Test Code procedures

21-203DK 3" Inlet DryFlow Air Filter. 5'' Element
21-203D-HK 3" Inlet DryFlow Air Filter. 5'' Element w/ Hole for AIT Sensor
21-2038DK 3" DryFlow Air Filter. Short Neck 8'' Element
21-2039DK 3" Inlet DryFlow Air Filter. 9'' Element

 

[Z06guy]

Why would anybody care about intake airflow or tiny increases in power in a XJ? Are you racing? How does 10 peak hp at redline help you? The only reasons to change the stock intake would be for a snorkle to stop hydrolocking. My XJ has a K&N panel filter in it because it was in there when I bought it. I would rather have a stock paper filter because they filter particulate better than K&N, but I'm not going to spend the $14 because it doesn't matter to me if a tad more dust gets into my 188,000 mile 4.0. The point is, the intake doesn't matter. If you off road your XJ, there are 1000 other better things to spend your time and money on than trying to gain 10 more peak horespower that is useless for off roading and you can't even feel anyway. What you feel is throttle response, noise, and plecebo. For most off roading, reliability is 1,000,000 X more important than peak horsepower. The stock intake is free and reliable. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. That said, I want a snorkle. But only so I can cross deep water. I don't give a s*** what is does to engine power.

 

[plymatt65]

I agree with Z06. Reliability and quality of air are far more important than a little top end power. I like the high quality inexpensive paper elements, their only real down side is getting them wet, but no air filter should be exposed to large amounts of water.

My Jeep will soon have an in cowl snorkle with most likely an Aem dryflow cone filter. Yeah, it will be ghetto fab with ABS pipe, but it will keep the engine safe.

 

[srmitchell]

Thanks for the comments about my cowl setup.

I concur about the reliability. I like the stock setup. I used to have a k&n fipk, and I found dust in the valve cover vent tube. The stock is much better, but it's too vulnerable.

I enjoy my setup, because I think it makes more power(which is all that matters) and it has allowed me to go through water that went over the hood. And for 10 bucks?

....

 

[jeeperjohn]

I just spent the last few hours trying to come up with something about Superchargers.

Here's a little more info on supercharging.
There are 3 basic types of superchargers. The centrifugal type, which uses an impeller very similar to a turbo, is powered by the belt via a pulley and is known to be more efficient than a roots type supercharger. The roots type supercharger is also belt driven but uses a set of 3 lobed roters to force air through the unit. The roots type is the oldest design and is the least efficient. The 3rd type is the screw type supercharger. This is similar to a roots type but has twisted rotors which compress the air much more efficiently producing far less heat than a roots type. In a screw type, the air is actually compressed inside the body of the unit, whereas the roots type compresses the air outside the unit. The screw type is generally used without an intercooler because it produces less heat. An intercooler is an air to air heat exchanger that passes ambient air through the fins of a radiator and compressed air through the tubes. The ambient air absorbs the heat from the compressed air reducing the temperature and thereby making the compressed air more dense. The advantage of belt driven superchargers over turbos is they have no lag and produce boost from idle on up. Recent improvements in turbocharger design, such as variable guide vanes, have lessened the lag and made turbos more practical at lower RPM's.