Air Intake and Flow Modification Poll

Which Air Intake and Flow Modification is Best for Offroading?


  • Total voters
    131
  • Poll closed .
Cowl Snorkle. True cold air, factory filtration, sealed air intake up front, and increased HP. I feel more power, and i went through 4 feet of water no prob.
Used pvc, and a spare factory intake tube. Cost 10 bucks to make.

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For Florida, you need a snorkle. Seems like the swamps would be the only fun place to go other than the beach. Do you keep a gator prod in your roof rack? The K&N on the top is practical and probably works OK, but looks dorky.

Edit: srmitchell - You get my vote for the best idea yet. Very cool.
 
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What type of 4x4ing are we talking about because intakes are def not one size fits all.

This.

I voted supercharger because it would indeed be the best induction upgrade and can be used with a snorkel. Realistic no but you added it :)


srmitchell's setup would be cool. I would prefer going to a snorkel kinda like the high water crossing version of the HMMWV.
 
Cowl Snorkle. True cold air, factory filtration, sealed air intake up front, and increased HP. I feel more power, and i went through 4 feet of water no prob.
Used pvc, and a spare factory intake tube. Cost 10 bucks to make.

jeeeeep008.jpg

That's one CLEAN setup! Nice job. Very functional. I like it.
 
I believe one can improve performance with a snorkel as well. If designed well, the intake flow and airflow path through the tubing can improve engine performance. Some snorkels actually hurt performance with too many and/or too sharp of turns in the tubing and with less than optimum tube and passage diameter. IMHO

A snorkel offers incredible engine protection from water and dust. The air intake can prevent hydrolocking and will help keep dust from entering and/or clogging the air filter. IMHO

I went with a Cowl Setup because I couldn't find anyone in the Tampa Bay Area able to bend 3" Stainless Steel tubing. The type of trail driving I do would destroy (I believe) a snorkel with anything less but then again I never have used one in the woods and swamps here. I would feel much more comfortable with a snorkel made of stronger than PCV or ABS materials.

Just my .02
 
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if your going to do mud like sledneck... i'd invest in routing your exhaust pipe over the roof too along with a snorkle, those are 2 places your motor should never see mud/water. hell even if you just make it a bolt on app for the exhaust for when you go mudding... the guy in the video that bent a rod should of never went in that mud hole

my xj see's rocks and sand, so i'll do a drop in K&N filter one of these days... for now i'll stick to my nice stock restrictive paper filter. i really dont think the added 15hp AT MOST crank hp will hardly be felt by the seat of the pants, its all an illusion of the mind.
 
I do admit, it was Gojeep's that gave me the ideas to do it much like his. However, my cowl is taller, my intake hose has a much wider opening, my canister is a tad smaller, and I use a large conical air filter.

Can we get some more pictures of your setup? Under the hood? Where'd you get your canister?

Thanks,
Billy
 
Can we get some more pictures of your setup? Under the hood? Where'd you get your canister?

Thanks,
Billy

My setup is the same as Gojeeps. I would post photos, however, my daughter broke our camera taking it to the beach a few weeks back and I can not afford a new one at this time. We just bought it in April and now it's broken. It was an accident so I didn't get on her for it.

I bought the canister off Ebay. He had 4 of them. Give me some time and I will see if I can find some online. If not, one can be purchased at Komoto Tractor Sales. But let me check to make sure that is the correct name or not.
 
It's Part #3902 manufactured by Tsuchiya MFG. CO. LTD

It has 3" intake and outlets. It measures about 11"s long (canister only) and 10" wide with clips, 8" diameter (canister only). I've had it for about 3 years but I will try and find one on the net.
 
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I love this thread because it shows where a snorkel, really extended breather hoses, and waterproofed wiring connections and electronic components would have been an asset. This is in Utah, I believe, and not in the swamps elsewhere.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=937408

I was wheeling the other day and I drove my 89 jeep cherokee into a really deep water whole..got half way through, it was deep to the top of the hood at the depest and just died on me in the middle of the water..i got towed out, and towed home, i pulled the spark plugs not really sure what else to do?

im scared to start it, not sure if the lights or anything even work?

what could be wrong and what should i do ??

thanks




I was wheeling the other day and I drove my 89 jeep cherokee into a really deep water whole..got half way through, it was deep to the top of the hood at the depest and just died on me in the middle of the water..i got towed out, and towed home, i pulled the spark plugs not really sure what else to do?

im scared to start it, not sure if the lights or anything even work?

what could be wrong and what should i do ??

thanks




never,heheheh.It was there and i couldn't resist .Pretty much had it the second time till I tried to re lined up on what i was climbing and it sunk deeper then the first time.

This was the second time
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I have another pic of my ex-girlfriend standing where it sunk and its almost up to her shoulders.

It was till it went to the scrape yard to be shredded

ask and you shale receive

floodedpw1.jpg


same spot after the water had receded.that bridge is what I was climbing and fell off of into the drink.its normally a bridge that is just under that water and the dirt bank runs right up to it.during a flood the bank washed away.

7240440jp6.jpg
 
My setup is the same as Gojeeps. I would post photos, however, my daughter broke our camera taking it to the beach a few weeks back and I can not afford a new one at this time. We just bought it in April and now it's broken. It was an accident so I didn't get on her for it.

I bought the canister off Ebay. He had 4 of them. Give me some time and I will see if I can find some online. If not, one can be purchased at Komoto Tractor Sales. But let me check to make sure that is the correct name or not.

Correction, mine is from a Kubota Tractor. I have no idea which model. Today, I tried to match part numbers and was unable to. I had called a local Kubota Dealer a while back and the Filters were very expensive. $45 or so. I had the Outlet removed and fabbed in my Rusty's Tube so I could mount my 9" K&N filter within the canister. With the 9" K&N filter within the canister, I feel there is better air flow and better performance. I also do not have to clean the filter as often as before.

Kubota Part Numbers
Canister: 3902 (manufactured by Tsuchiya MFG. CO. LTD)
Outer Filter 3823
Inner Filter: 3830
Hope this helps.
 
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i dont really go muddin that often i live in colorado and if i can i would much rather go rock crawlin, i thought that the snorkel would be unique and at the same time help the motor run cooler, with the bonus of not having to be scared of water crossings and mud holes. I havent water proofed anything else the only thing is the alternator makes alot of noise now but still works at full amps. im gonna take it apart and clean in real good soon hope that fixes it.
 
I just spent the last few hours trying to come up with something about Superchargers. Here is what I knew and what I found out. Hope it helps. I did make an observation at the bottom of the writeup. Please, never mind my typos and mistakes in grammar. Now, that is funny. Enjoy.

Both turbochargers and superchargers are called forced induction systems. They both compress the air flowing into the engine . The advantage of compressing the air is that it lets the engine stuff more air in a cylinder. More air means that more fuel can be stuffed in too. Therefore, one get more power from each explosion in each cylinder. A turbo/supercharged engine produces more power overall than the same engine without the charging. The typical boost provided by either a turbocharger or a supercharger is 6 to 8 PSI. Since turbochargers are powered by exhaust pressure while superchargers are driven from the engine crank pulley. Superchargers allow one to attain boost and horsepower on demand. A turbocharger requires the exhaust pressure to build resulting in a "lag" in horsepower increase. A turbocharger will typically have a higher discharge temperature than a centrifugal supercharger. This higher temperature is a result of the turbo impeller spinning faster and the heat generated from the exhaust gas.

Supercharging increases air density and significantly increases power on an otherwise stock engine. A supercharger forces additional air and fuel into the engine. This occurs when the engine is under full throttle or under load, not at normal cruise or for most normal driving.

Roughly, one can expect to gain about the same power difference percentage as one gains induction pressure percentage. The equation is HPafter = ((14.7 + boost)/14.7)*HPbefore. For instance, on a Jeep 4.0L H.O. engine and the Jeeper adds 7.5psi boost, the Jeeper can expect to have about 280HP. This is an estimate. In reality, it will likely be just a bit less than that due to inefficiencies and air density losses due to heating. If a Jeep is intercooled, the Jeep will get closer to this estimated power.

A stock 4.0L will show signs of premature aging if used under rigorous conditions such as offroading, racing, or towing. Likewise, premature engine failure is a possibility with any engine that is not properly tuned and a supercharged Jeep engine is no exception. A supercharger is an air movement device that forces increased air into an engine. While under boost, the additional air requires additional fuel to enrich air to fuel ratio. Detonation (a pinging noise from the engine) is a sign that the engine is not running properly and can indicate a variety of problems including a lean condition, a timing curve that is too aggressive, or low octane fuel.

Fuel economy depends entirely on one's driving habits and in some cases a Jeeper may experience an increase in gas mileage. Under normal freeway driving, for example, the supercharger is not under boost but is increasing the efficiency of the engine by forcing air through restrictions like the air filter.

If one is relatively mechanically inclined, can follow directions, and have the necessary tooling then installation can usually be completed within a 6-8 hour timeframe. Each manufacturer goes to great lengths to ensure that each kit is complete with everything one will need, some even down to the wire ties, and that the directions are clear, visual, and concise. They also provide excellent tech support should one run into any problems during the installation process.

Tapping the oil pan for the oil supply depends on the type of supercharger system one purchases. Some of the units are called “self-contained” units and have their own internal lubrication system. Some are belt driven and do not need lubrication. Other units do require the oil pan to be tapped, but the process is much easier than it first sounds.

Most supercharger kits for street use are designed to run a safe 6psi of boost on a stock engine. Any more power would have to be supported by a cooling option (i.e. Intercooler, Water Injection, etc.). Six to nine pounds (psi) is normally a safe level for most stock engines. Running more than this will usually require a reduction in compression ratio.

Almost all supercharger systems require the use of premium fuel. Octane boosters are not required but may improve performance in severely hot climates or under circumstances where a heavy load is placed on the engine for an extended period of time such as offroading, racing, or towing. In emergency situations, regular gas can be used with the addition of high quality octane boosters for very short periods of time.

Although some manufacturers claim a specific horsepower increase, superchargers actually add horsepower as a percentage gain (percentage of an atmosphere). Assuming an engine with a compression ratio of around 9:1 running pump gas, if a supercharger gives the engine 14.7 psi of boost, (which is atmospheric pressure) then the output of one's engine will double, everything else being equal. After adjusting for thermal and mechanical energy transfer, if an efficient centrifugal supercharger is generating 7.5 psi (approx. 1/2 of atmosphere), a Jeeper will see around a 35-40% gain in horsepower and torque at their non-supercharged maximum horsepower rpm. If detonation forces one to use an ignition/timing retard system, a Jeeper will of course see less of a gain because backing off several degrees of timing will greatly reduce an engine's power output. At higher boost levels, the heat generated by compressing air will produce diminishing returns as the boost is increased, although the use of intercooling or racing fuel can avoid this scenario of diminishing returns. Assuming the use of intercooling to run higher boost levels while maintaining reliability, a 100% increase can generally be achieved at around 17 psi on an engine with 9:1 compression running pump gas.

On any belt driven blower, which is most centrifugals, a Jeeper can change the amount of boost by changing the size of the pulley on the blower. The smaller the pulley the faster the blower runs and the more boost it makes.

Exhaust modifications such as a header and a high performance cat-back exhaust system can add substantial increases in power.

The Magnuson Moss Warranty Act (15 USCA § 2301 – 15 USCA § 2312) prohibits a dealer from voiding oner warranty simply because one have modifications to one's vehicle. It is the Dealerships responsibility to prove that any modification was the reason for a failure.

With a supercharger, an exhaust header, a cat-back exhaust system, and a snorkel; a Jeeper would have plenty of power, torque, and acceleration. However, with the price of a supercharger system, having to use high octane gasoline all the time, and timing and fuel mixture issues; I believe a 4.9 Stroker with a compression ratio of 8.9 to 1 running on regular gasoline that produces 315 HP would be a better choice. IMHO

Matter of fact, a 4.9 stroker with such specs is offered by Titan Engines in Ocala, Florida. I have been inquiring about it for about 3 years. Many Jeepers in Florida have been using this stroker. Titan developed this low compression stroker so it would not ping and could to be used in any part of the country. This stroker runs fine here in Florida on regular gas where we have extreme high humidity heat in summers. This Stroker has a 3 Year 36000 Mile Warranty. To me that is awesome. I do know that a lot of Jeepers here in Florida that run with strokers run with Titan strokers and have little to no problems with them. Just my .02
 
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With 582 Veiws at this point and 75 Voters I would think there would be more opinions and/or setups posted up. Usually, almost all the Jeepers I have known, like to discuss, often brag (and rightly so) about their builds and what they believe one should do to one's rig.

This Thread was meant to discuss Stock and Mods of a XJ Air Intake System. It was not meant for me to have a platform in which to push my opinions on others. I am not an Engineer, a Mechanic, or a Fabricator. I am just an Enthusiast at best and I am open to constructive criticism.

Please, feel free to argue my opinions in a constructive way. Post Up your Opinions, your suggestions, your builds, your solutions, and any other thoughts you may have on the subject.

Thanks
 
No one will argue that the XJ Factory Air Filter is very restrictive. Many Jeepers opt for a Short Ram Intake. A Short Ram Intake is less restrictive than the Stock Air Box used by itself without a Snorkel or Cowl Induction added. The benefits of a Short Ram Intake is that it is less expensive than a Cold Air Intake, easy to install, remove, and to service the air filter. IMHO

A Short Ram Intake is usually a short tube and a conical air filter inside the engine bay. Rusty's Tube and K&N Filter is an example of one. A Short Ram Intake will improve one's horsepower, fuel efficiency, throttle response, drivability, and overall engine function. The more air that enters, the more power it will make.

Some Short Ram Intakes come with a heat shield, other's have one fabbed up allowing the inlet to draw in air as close to ambient temperature as possible. Short Ram Intakes have benefits over Cold Air Intakes in that they may improve MPGs due to a more complete burning of fuel. Jeepers with Forced Air Induction engines will usually go with a Short Ram Intake because compressors adjacent to the engine, especially turbochargers, heat the incoming air and negate much of the benefits of a Cold Air Intake.

A noticeable result of using a Short Ram Intake is an increase of intake noise. To most Jeepers this is not an issue since what they are looking for is improved performance.
 
Complete Cold-Air Intake Systems can be changed from a Cold-Air Intake to a Short-Ram Intake for use during winter months. A Short-Ram Intake pulls air from inside the engine compartment and a Cold-Air Intake pulls air from outside the engine compartment.

A Complete Cold-Air Intake System replaces the Jeep Stock Air Box thus increasing horsepower and throttle response by the unrestricted flow of air to the engine which in turns results in improved performance. This system allows air to flow in as close to a straight line as possible. Air flow is more easily assimilated into the engine than with the turbulent air typically sent by a Jeep Stock System.

A Complete Cold-Air Intake System is designed for increased performance, ease of installation and maintenance, to increase HP and acceleration and usually includes a High Flow Washable/Reusable Air Filter.
 
Slow down. You are getting way carried away here. And ignoring your poll.
No one will argue that the XJ Factory Air Filter is very restrictive. Many Jeepers opt for a Short Ram Intake. A Short Ram Intake is less restrictive than the Stock Air Box used by itself without a Snorkel or Cowl Induction added. The benefits of a Short Ram Intake is that it is less expensive than a Cold Air Intake, easy to install, remove, and to service the air filter. IMHO

A Short Ram Intake is usually a short tube and a conical air filter inside the engine bay. Rusty's Tube and K&N Filter is an example of one. A Short Ram Intake will improve one's horsepower, fuel efficiency, throttle response, drivability, and overall engine function. The more air that enters, the more power it will make.

I've never seen any evidence that "overall engine function or even horsepower is improved. I'm not talking about manufacturer's advertising here. "In God We trust, all Others bring Data."

The major problem with a short tube conical filter in the engine bay is that the intake air is too hot. Also, there is even less protection for water intrusion like deep puddles.

Some Short Ram Intakes come with a heat shield, other's have one fabbed up allowing the inlet to draw in air as close to ambient temperature as possible. Short Ram Intakes have benefits over Cold Air Intakes in that they may improve MPGs due to a more complete burning of fuel.

Short ram without cold air shields are a joke. Cheap stuff for kids to mess up.

Jeepers with Forced Air Induction engines will usually go with a Short Ram Intake because compressors adjacent to the engine, especially turbochargers, heat the incoming air and negate much of the benefits of a Cold Air Intake.

Turbochargers and superchargers are even more in need of cold air. That's why intercoolers are so important. Just because some people may not properly feed the intake air when they modify stuff doesn't make it work better. Supercharged production vehicles (SVO Lightning's, etc.) still try to feed cold air into the intake.

A Complete Cold-Air Intake System replaces the Jeep Stock Air Box thus increasing horsepower and throttle response by the unrestricted flow of air to the engine which in turns results in improved performance. This system allows air to flow in as close to a straight line as possible. Air flow is more easily assimilated into the engine than with the turbulent air typically sent by a Jeep Stock System.

A Complete Cold-Air Intake System is designed for increased performance, ease of installation and maintenance, to increase HP and acceleration and usually includes a High Flow Washable/Reusable Air Filter.

Yeah it is designed to do this, but where is the DATA to show that anything is more successful than stock. Again, you took a poll and you are ignoring the ?wisdom? of the multitudes. Data please.
 
Thank you for your input. It is appreciated. I like your point of view. Thanks.

I can always post a disclaimer at the beginning of every post and ask everyone to do the same. Now, that would be silly and I personally don't think it would be needed. IMHO LOL

As stated, I am not an engineer, a mechanic, nor a Fabricator... Just an Enthusiast. All my posts are from what I have heard, read, and sometimes experienced and NOT from the results from the Poll. Differing opinions are welcome. My posts are just that... my opinion and in so are NOT meant to be scientifically accurate or to instruct as I am sure many Jeeper's posts are not either.

It is my purpose in writing my posts to encourage such discussions. I know I will be mistaken and sometimes way off the ball. I do believe, however, a forum is for such debates and by doing so offers people an opportunity to learn and express their points of view.

I promise, my posts are not definitive in any form or matter. Again, they are just my opinion and may not reflect the beliefs and understandings of other Jeepers.

Thanks again. I really hope other's will do the same.
 
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Earlier, I posted this up. It is my hope more Jeepers like winterbeater will Post Up as well.

Thanks,
cher96 Vicki

With 582 Veiws at this point and 75 Voters I would think there would be more opinions and/or setups posted up. Usually, almost all the Jeepers I have known, like to discuss, often brag (and rightly so) about their builds and what they believe one should do to one's rig.

This Thread was meant to discuss Stock and Mods of a XJ Air Intake System. It was not meant for me to have a platform in which to push my opinions on others. I am not an Engineer, a Mechanic, or a Fabricator. I am just an Enthusiast at best and I am open to constructive criticism.

Please, feel free to argue my opinions in a constructive way. Post Up your Opinions, your suggestions, your builds, your solutions, and any other thoughts you may have on the subject.

Thanks
 
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