air in power steering system, bleed?

[muddeprived]

I just replaced my steering box, PS pressure line, and return hose, along with installing c-rok's brace and detour's backbone. I was following this procedure:

1. Fill the pump fluid reservoir to the proper level and let the fluid settle for at least two minutes.
2. Start the engine and let run for a few seconds then turn engine off.
3. Add fluid if necessary. Repeat the above procedure until the fluid level remains constant after running the engine.
4. Raise the front wheels off the ground.
5. Slowly turn the steering wheel right and left, lightly contacting the wheel stops at least 20 times.
6. Check the fluid level add if necessary.

The first time i turned it on and went over to check it, the fluid was gone and it was sucking in air apparently. I shut off the jeep and filled it back up and started it again and it sucked it all down plus air. I turned it off and the reservoir filled up with a strawberry milkshake (air and fluid). I know there's air in the system now and need to bleed it. Do i just keep following the next steps? Will that bleed it all out?

 

[wim hoppenbrouwers]

Hallo. you can better bleed it without a running engine.
Only the front axle on 2 jackstands. Let the steering system rest for a while.
After a few hours you can do again a bleed.

'92 XJ

 

[435Mj]

Like stated, let the jeep sit for awhile to let the bubbles go away or remove the steering box lines to release the fluid and start over with fresh fluid.

Rase the front tires off the ground
fill res. with fluid
dont start. you can fry your pump
unlock the steering coloum

turn steering wheel lock to lock at least 20 full times slowly then untill you fluid level stays consistant(add as needed) and there are no more bubbles. you may need a helper. it may flow over the res top for time to time thats air going though the system on its way out.

then start the jeep and listen for the pump whine while you turn the wheel. if is dosent your good.

hope this helps

 

[96HOxj]

Like stated, let the jeep sit for awhile to let the bubbles go away or remove the steering box lines to release the fluid and start over with fresh fluid.

Rase the front tires off the ground
fill res. with fluid
dont start. you can fry your pump
unlock the steering coloum

turn steering wheel lock to lock at least 20 full times slowly then untill you fluid level stays consistant(add as needed) and there are no more bubbles. you may need a helper. it may flow over the res top for time to time thats air going though the system on its way out.

then start the jeep and listen for the pump whine while you turn the wheel. if is dosent your good.

hope this helps

so i just replaced mine, filled res. started engine and immediately began to whine... so what does this mean?

 

[muddeprived]

so i just replaced mine, filled res. started engine and immediately began to whine... so what does this mean?

Did you bleed it? Normally when you first fill it, it will drain to the box on the initial start up and you have to keep filling it for a while.

 

[96HOxj]

i did attempt to bleed it; went lock to lock a few times but i was weary it was running dry on some huge air bubble and didnt want to damage anything. although i think i knwo where i may have messed up, i had a buddy in the car and had him start it up. then he asked me something i stepped away, then ran back to fill it but it had already dropped pretty low. i began to fill it right away and it continued to whine going lock to lock a few times slow not sure how many times or how long it should take before the whine goes away. (or if there should be a whine for that matter)

i also want to mention i had a bit of trouble getting the belt back on i couldnt get the tension all the way out. do you think having an over tightened belt could be? i read somewhere you should be able to barely twist it 90 degress which is exactly how tight it is now.

 

[montanaman]

Is it possible to bench bleed PS gears before installing them? I've never installed one before.

 

[wolfpackjeeper]

you should be looking at about an inch worth of deflection over about a 10in span. Sometimes pumps will whine a little after first installing them.

 

[87manche]

i also want to mention i had a bit of trouble getting the belt back on i couldnt get the tension all the way out. do you think having an over tightened belt could be? i read somewhere you should be able to barely twist it 90 degress which is exactly how tight it is now.

The tension bolt does not get turned until it bottoms out.

overtightening the belt usually kills the alternator quickly. I've done that twice now.

head to your local NAPA and get a Gates Krikit tension gauge. They're $15. I forget the belt tension spec, but it's on here somewhere.

 

[XJjomps]

I just replaced box and have same issue...am going to drain and start fresh...may have effed the pump though

 

[96HOxj]

I just replaced box and have same issue...am going to drain and start fresh...may have effed the pump though

those are my exact thoughts word for word, i am going to attempt today, will let all know if rebleed works. thanks for the input fellas

 

[96HOxj]

you should be looking at about an inch worth of deflection over about a 10in span. Sometimes pumps will whine a little after first installing them.

sorry im a bit lost here, im replying to a few different ppl. but basically your saying in a ten inch span of the belt i should have about an inch of deflection? becuase im gettting a bit worn out hustling a ride up to napa to go buy "one more thing" i seem to be saying that alot these last few days....

 

[wolfpackjeeper]

yea, it is just a rule of thumb, but it will keep you from over tightening a belt.

I have heard a belt width of deflection across an extended handswidth too (fingers spread, from tip of pinky to tip of thumb averages about 8-10in for most people). Which for me equates to about 3/4in across 9 inches.

 

[O-Gauge Steamer]

Another method is to put two pieces of cardboard (stacked) under each front tire. This will make a bearing surface that is surprisingly slipper. Avoids making flat spots on the tire. This is old tech. Really old tech. My Dad taught me this in the early 60's...

Moving the gear without the pump running is a good idea. According to GM, the TC pump will always be a bit noisey due to the iron construction. They also say that the limited amount of time it takes to power bleed the system will have no deleterious effects on the pump. The pump is known to make a "whoosh" sound as the pressure bypass opens and the pump is known to cavitate, even with the resevoir full, ceating oil vapor bubbles that make the characteristic whining sound. Again, according to GM, slight cavitation is normal and will not damage the pump. Metel to metal is usually what kills them. Fluid that has gotten hot loses some of its lubrication properties and you get contact. For DD duty, no PS cooler is needed. For heavy use (i.e. offroad) a cooler is highly recommended. Coolers are on stock heavy duty vehicles for that reason. The cooler I use I salvaged from my local JY off of an F350. Sits in front of the radiator on the passenger side. And before anyone asks, the pump still makes some noise. As expected. Runs cooler though.

 

[ParadiseXJ]

those are my exact thoughts word for word, i am going to attempt today, will let all know if rebleed works. thanks for the input fellas

If you are not getting a solid stream of bubble-less fluid coming out your return line, then you are not done. I flushed a good quart of P/S fluid thru the line before I got clear juice. Remove the return line and stick it in a waste can while you pour fluid into the reservoir...with someone else on the key.