Aetna tidbits

IF you are gong to all that trouble on a hp44 then I'd just do it to a D60 or a 14bolt. With your tire size its just going to break again. SAme goes for fixing the housing.
 
I WILL NOT do a ton swap, sorry. Not gonna happen. Im not 100% satisfied with my ground clearance now, and a ton swap would kill what I do have. I have yet to break any internal parts in either 44 (other than front u joint caps)... ever, except when I bend rear axle tubes. So I beefed the housing, but apparently there was something wrong with that pumpkin... It might've had a hairline crack the hole time. The thing is, Im doing fine with internals, and Im still running stock 30 spline shafts, so why go to tons when what I got isn't even blinged out all the way? Granted, a 60 would be beef, but I have absolutely no money to buy all the parts to do that. NOTHING I have now would work... nothing. I will be putting in another 44 (or fixing this one). The question is just that though, fix this one or build a HP??? At least with the HP I would be able to use my shafts, carrier, brakes, etc. I would just have to get new mounts and new gears. And besides, its not like I'd have to pay somebody to build the HP, I got all the skillz needed to build a hybrid axle like this. Its no big deal for me.
 
Awesome trip guys, I'm still tired. I'll try and post a couple pics tomorrow.
 
I understand your reluctance to go beff but how many times has this one had issues? Is this the second or third time? I'd repair it and beef it and start gathering parts for a shaved 60. If this has happened twice, bent then broke after the bend, something is causing it. A new housing is going to eventually do the same thing most likely.
 
Ghost said:
I understand your reluctance to go beff but how many times has this one had issues? Is this the second or third time? I'd repair it and beef it and start gathering parts for a shaved 60. If this has happened twice, bent then broke after the bend, something is causing it. A new housing is going to eventually do the same thing most likely.
Click to expand...
maybe try a trussed 9"? :dunno:
 
256offroad said:
so you run a 4link rear and stock short arms on the front?
Click to expand...

I like having the stiff ride up front with the flex out back. :guitar:

But really its a 5 link in the back still, I had planned on using the factory upper mounts with the 10* offset ballastic dual mounts but it just didn't work, so I had to weld on some tabs next to them to get the bushing to fit right. Basically about 3 years ago I had a D44 front and 8.8 rear locked with 5.13s and 35s, short arms and it ripped the rear upper mounts off the frame. being in school and no money I tried to get them back on the best I could but they were so twisted the welds were less than steller (lots of gap filling) so to keep them from breaking again i took the axles out and put in that D35 and a roller housing in the front.

So this auguest I finally got the time (thanks economy) to fix it so did the long arms in the back with the intention to do a 4 link when I swap to 60s and got a complete TJ front and put gears in it and went wheeling. So now it actually will go down the road straight, before It would zig zag, or wag the tail, down the road because the rear end was going down the road straight it seemed. So basically its in a rebuilding step. Seemed to work ok though, its not happy I know, makes a lot of not good noises up front only thing I had to go around was the 5 hills. and that was open f/r with 33s.

Here's what it looks like from the other side.
web.jpg


Wow, sorry for the short story. But i've never lost a rear coil like that, I did on the front once when the trackbar mount broke, adding insult to injury. Guess those ballistic joints were worth it! I'm just glad the rear compressed the drive spring to get the pass side down. There is no weight in the back of mine and those RE springs are stiff. I usually have probably 250-300lbs between the tuffy box and tools parts.
 
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Team Willys said:
I WILL NOT do a ton swap, sorry. Not gonna happen. Im not 100% satisfied with my ground clearance now, and a ton swap would kill what I do have. I have yet to break any internal parts in either 44 (other than front u joint caps)... ever, except when I bend rear axle tubes. So I beefed the housing, but apparently there was something wrong with that pumpkin... It might've had a hairline crack the hole time. The thing is, Im doing fine with internals, and Im still running stock 30 spline shafts, so why go to tons when what I got isn't even blinged out all the way? Granted, a 60 would be beef, but I have absolutely no money to buy all the parts to do that. NOTHING I have now would work... nothing. I will be putting in another 44 (or fixing this one). The question is just that though, fix this one or build a HP??? At least with the HP I would be able to use my shafts, carrier, brakes, etc. I would just have to get new mounts and new gears. And besides, its not like I'd have to pay somebody to build the HP, I got all the skillz needed to build a hybrid axle like this. Its no big deal for me.
Click to expand...

I tend to agree with you on that logic, sure the 60 is beef, but really where? Larger gears, FF shafts, but the tubes are probably no thicker, little larger which helps the polar moment of inertia, definitely not more than the .5" 44 tubes. The center section is larger but probably not much thicker and from what I recall the webing isn't that much different on the standard ones, I think some had more. Unless its just those older castings had issues they fixed later on. I dunno. But since that HP 44 was under a F250 with leafs, I think if you don't weld anything to or around the castings it should be fine (even though I did on mine and it was ok)
 
FlameRedTJ said:
I tend to agree with you on that logic, sure the 60 is beef, but really where? Larger gears, FF shafts, but the tubes are probably no thicker, little larger which helps the polar moment of inertia, definitely not more than the .5" 44 tubes. The center section is larger but probably not much thicker and from what I recall the webing isn't that much different on the standard ones, I think some had more. Unless its just those older castings had issues they fixed later on. I dunno. But since that HP 44 was under a F250 with leafs, I think if you don't weld anything to or around the castings it should be fine (even though I did on mine and it was ok)
Click to expand...

keep in mind how much power tyler is putting out. i am still amazed he hasnt grenaded a r&p... i have seen 44s break like toothpicks compared to 60s..
 
i dont really have alot of experience in this area... besides a d35 and an 8.8 but i would fix what you got if its fixable... if not then hp44

and i agree with the possibility of hairline crack... thats exactly what happened to my yoke, after it broke you could see where the weather had discolored the metal in the area that was already cracked for prolly years....
 
256offroad said:
keep in mind how much power tyler is putting out. i am still amazed he hasnt grenaded a r&p... i have seen 44s break like toothpicks compared to 60s..
Click to expand...

Yea true, especially when getting to the lower gears, I know my 5.13 pinion in the 44 I had was Tiiiiiiny, like 9 teeth or something. But I have a 2.5, so.......wasn't terribly concerned.

If he hasn't broke one yet, I dunno. I think the 4.88s should be good for a decent power amount.

I really want to do the JK D44s, those things are beefy. But for a pair of those complete could just as easily do 60s, the prices have gone up pretty high from a year ago.
 
Guys, you don't understand... Ive got a lot of 44 parts laying around. It will be staying a 44.

Glenn, this is the 3rd housing. The first two bent on me. The second one bent so bad that the long side shaft broke. The reason they bend is because the springs are not out boarded on the frame, so the weight is more centered. Also, the waggy rears are only 3/16-1/4" wall tube stock, so they are really weak. I got this housing to get another fresh start. It was 100% straight and true when I started the transformation. I am kinda skiddish about fixing this one though simply b/c i will always be worried about it. In all honesty, at this very moment, I am really leaning to the Hybrid HP 44. I HATE to throw all that work away, but I would be getting the thicker tubes, a stronger casting with the spring perch already cast in where I need it, and a better driveshaft angle. I doubt I'll have any problems with the R&P. Gotta find a bare housing though and do a little more research...
 
FlameRedTJ said:
Yea true, especially when getting to the lower gears, I know my 5.13 pinion in the 44 I had was Tiiiiiiny, like 9 teeth or something. But I have a 2.5, so.......wasn't terribly concerned.

If he hasn't broke one yet, I dunno. I think the 4.88s should be good for a decent power amount.

I really want to do the JK D44s, those things are beefy. But for a pair of those complete could just as easily do 60s, the prices have gone up pretty high from a year ago.
Click to expand...

the jk axles are nice. one of my good friends has an 08 rubicon and his lockers NEVER work... the bring the suck hardcore. and you cant find lockers for those things....



tyler i understand your reasons for using a 44... i do like the hp rear option... just be carefull bouncing that thing to hard. just saw a guy last weekend grenade his 3rd set of gears in his HP dynatrac 60....that could get expensive...
 
256offroad said:
really? guys i have been riding with have never really had an issue.... so far i can tell they hold up great.

ls1 on comp compound tires...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q31qdMflS5k
Click to expand...

They hold up great, but hang up an everything, just like a 60 or 14 bolt. No more "try this axle" suggestions. With any axle other than a 44, there will be all kinds of extra costs and work. One big issue and cost: brakes and having a substitute axle drilled to 6 lug, I'd have to have one axle shaft cut down to offset the pumpkin, and that means custom shafts for spares... just not gonna do it. Too much money in machine work and parts such as gears, a carrier, bearings, a diff cover, etc, etc, etc...

Not trying to be a stubborn a hole here, I know the 60's and 14 bolts and 9 inchers are stronger when you compare stock vs. stock, but why go through all that trouble and spend all that money (the biggest reason I wont do it) when I don't need it?

I want your opinions on which 44...

Considering all the work I got in this thing, do you think welding this one is a safe and reliable repair? Or should I just throw it away and build a HP?
 
Team Willys said:
I want your opinions on which 44...

Considering all the work I got in this thing, do you think welding this one is a safe and reliable repair? Or should I just throw it away and build a HP?
Click to expand...
try welding it... see how it holds up... you said 100bucks to weld it? so if it breaks your out your 100bucks and time...
 
I think it could be a safe and reliable repair if done correctly. Make an alignment jig to go through the caps and wheel bearings to line it up and keep it straight while welding, then once you've done everything i'd probably heat treat it as well, not sure what the procedure is for cast welding though, only done 4130 before. Then pull the jig out and reinstall.

But thats what i'd do. Take more time, but have more piece of mind.
 
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