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Adjustable Cross-Over Shock Mount

JEEPZZ said:
I had one built for my Jeep about 3 years ago. I was going to go with something like the Cross design but what I had built instead looks an awlful lot like the JKS set up.
Mine, like the JKS, bolts into the upper shock mounts and also has 3 different places on where to mount the upper end of the shock. With the top of the shock angled in (rather than almost vertical like stock), it allows for much more wheel travel without the need for cutting through the floorboard.
I still needed to reroute the exhaust and you'll also need to run a stiffer shock to compensate for the mounting angle.
Now the bad part, last year in Moab I was haulin' ass down a dirt road (Jeep Speed style :D) and tore the unibody away right where the new shock bracket mounts into the stock upper shock mounts. I had to have the 'sheet metal' welded back together. Definitely not the strongest set up.
I'm going to have to add a cross support that will attach out to the 'frame' rails in the same area where the Cross Shockhoop mounts up for extra strength.

With hindsight of the sheet metal strength issue in the upper shock mount area, I'd just go with the Cross Ent design instead.



I don't speed in my jeep except on the highway on the way to the trails. Do you have any pictures? If you do get rid or it, want to sell it?
 
KSXJ said:
I will check mine tonight, I am still thinking about buying one of these, but I don't really want to modify my fuel lines either. This is beginning to be a large project for something so simple.


The problem was on the driver's side, upper mount area, just inboard of the mount. There are two(?) lines and a wire harness in the way.
 
I want to know as well if having the shocks on the same side of the axle has a drastic impact on everyday driving. This is my daily driver and I'd like it to still be comfortable and safe.
 
just an update...

I finally got around to installing mine on my 98... I didnt have any clearance issues w/ the gas lines everything fit just like you expect a JKS product to.

I did hack off the exhaust and will re-do it when I get around to installing a new flowmaster.

The ride seems smoother and rear flex was improved. The main reason I installed it was because I hi-clearanced my shock mounts (flush w/ the rear axle) and when fully loaded/ wheeling large bumps at speed would bottom out the shocks... Not a problem anymore!
 
uncc civilengineer said:
just an update...


I did hack off the exhaust and will re-do it when I get around to installing a new flowmaster.
Make sure your exhaust isn't hacked off where it leaves it aimed at your fuel tank. I made that mistake. I drove 40 miles to pickup some parts and stopped at a gas station. You would believe the amount of pressure and how long it took to vent the hot fumes. I'm lucky it didn't melt the fuel tank all the way through.
 
Didn't think of that but its cut off right at the muffler... something like 2 feet from the tank... seems like it wouldnt get any hotter traveling down the road.... I'll check it..
 
So I'm looking to totally re-do my shock stuff and after following this thread it seem's like it is totally worth it plus added travel. Here's the items I believe I need to do the front & rears... am I correct?

- JKS Bar Pin Eliminators
**Front Bottom Mount**

- Upper Front Shock Conversion


- JKS Rear Axle Shock Mount
**Rear Bottom Mount**

- JKS Adjustable Cross-Over Shock Mount
**Rear Top Mount**
***Modify Tailpipe***
 
Glenn,

Well I dont think you can do a "upper front shock conversion" with the stud style upper shocks you probably have. You would need totaly new shocks with bushings at each end. <-- but you may already know this...

As for JKS BPE's, I opted to go w/ the Teraflex version because while the JKS BPE's up front give approx. 3/8" of additional travel; the Teraflex BPE's are approximately 1" taller than stock. IT all depends on how you're bumpstopped..

As for the rear, I made my lower mounts out of my stock mounts and boxed them in and welded them flush with the rear axle tube (nothing below the tube). The top mount is the JKS x-over and I have not modified my tailpipe yet. - BUT, I plan to add the offroad series flowmaster and depending how sounds re-run my exhaust out back... OR maybe not...


EDIT and the rear lower shock mounts can definetly take a hit now that they are boxed... mine seem to get hit just about every time out..
 
Yep, that's if you have a shock with the bushing type mount on each end.... If you run the JKS conversion and buy new shocks you have a ton more shock options. I'll eventually go that route when I go 14" travel shocks in the future but just dont want to spend the $$ right now...
 
Where does the JKSupper mount mount to? the swaybar mount or the stock upper shock mounts?
 
spaghettixj said:
stock upper shock mounts...

thanks, so thats out for me.
 
once I get the money I am buying one of these. For the cost you get a Bar Pin Eliminator(BPE) and makes your shocks adustable for different lift, flex control, and better ride. So to me I think there is enough reasons to get one. But not to many people have installed it, so there is not to many comments about them. But the ones I have heard are good.
 
One thing to remember it the closer the upper mounts are togther the more sway you will have. I run rear shocks on my '95 that angle like this set-up does and noticed more body roll and less shock damping. Also as the suspension compresses the shock angle increases which means your shocks get softer the further they compress.

I will be mounting mine to the spring plates in between the u-bolts and running then threw the floor to a custom built hoop. The straight angle will reduce body roll and have more consistant shock damping curve.
 
TNT said:
One thing to remember it the closer the upper mounts are togther the more sway you will have. I run rear shocks on my '95 that angle like this set-up does and noticed more body roll and less shock damping. Also as the suspension compresses the shock angle increases which means your shocks get softer the further they compress.

I will be mounting mine to the spring plates in between the u-bolts and running then threw the floor to a custom built hoop. The straight angle will reduce body roll and have more consistant shock damping curve.
...but for those that rather not cut through the floor but still want long travel, angling the shocks towards the center is the way to go.
You'll get much better wheel travel without the fear of bottoming or topping the shock out. To counter the lessened dampening due to the angle, just get a shock with stiffer valving to match the percentage you lost due to the angle.


IMG_1118.jpg


I still think that it would be 10x stronger if they also would tie it in to the 'frame' rails like a shock hoop. Like I said, I shreded mine but I run a much stiffer shock because I wanted to keep my 'anti-sway' streetability, my off road wheel travel AND my cargo area intact.
 
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