Adding more lift to existing RE lift kit.

[wnckrawler]

I am currently running a RE 5.5 with a TnT long arm kit. I am using the RE rear leafs and shackles. I am also running 33x12.5x15's.

What I am trying to figure out is the best, most cost effective (not cheap) way to add another 1-2" of lift to be able to clear 35's on an almost full flex. The lift as it sits right now will completly flex out and, for the most part, not rub with the 33's unless I'm turning.

I am planning on adding a coil spacer or ACOS adjuster to the front, but what I am having a hard time with is what to do in the rear. Before you jump on me for not buying shackles and calling it a day, please know that the RE 5.5 kit already has an almost 5" rear shackle coupled with a slightly larger rear leaf. I am trying to figure out if I should try and source a different manufacturer's leaf spring with a 1-2" shackle or try and use one of the "adjustable" rear shackles. Anybody have any ideas?

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

id stick with your leaf and shackle setup. your going to get better flex out of flatter leafs. what are your shackle angles like? i think youll hear a lot of votes for shackle relocation. if that doesnt net you what you want, look at UBEs from TNT.

for the front... how much adjustment does the ACOS system have? you may be able to get away with just that. if you get new coils, coil brand is its own subject entirely, depending on your terrain and shock valving.

jeep looks mean. but unfortunately unless you start making some big changes your pretty much at the limit of an unmolested XJ. i wouldnt suggest going much higher. youll find a lot of guys on here running bigger tires with the same or less lift as you. your cheapest bet might be to add your 35s and just bump stop accordingly. then get yourself some shocks that will maximize your droop.

 

[Johnnie Walker]

I belive ACOS net anywhere between .75"-almost 3". being able to fine tune them is awesome.

 

[sunburned]

How much flex do you really need?

I'm on 35's with a RE 4.5" lift. Basically its the 4.5" springs up front with a 1" spacer (for bumper/winch sag) and their 3.5" leafs with a 1" lift shackle in the rear. I'd say its plenty of flex and about as much as I can possibly get without cutting up the rear quarter panels .

If it's more rear droop you want, I'd go with shackle relocation brackets, but you'd probably need a bit shorter shackle than what you have. I don't really see the advantage of going higher just to get more stuff out of the rear. Essentially it's the same unless you really need the ground clearance.

Ride height

 

[wnckrawler]

I'm not really looking to gain MORE flex. I'm just trying to keep the amount of flex I already have and clear 35s.

I really appreciate the info, and seeing the setup on you rigs helps out a lot too. I'm certain the current setup will clear 35s but I just don't want to sacrifice any flex.

Sunburned: do you rub a lot when flexing like that? If not your setup night be just what I'm looking for.

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

i know i probably shouldnt speak for him but it looks like the rear does a little. but cherokees are curse with little wheel wells. if i had your rig, money, and an urge to buy something (dont we all?)... id really look at simply adding the shackle relocation and ACOS.


pics of tube work attached to the ARB bumper?

 

[wnckrawler]

Thanks for the advice guys. Gonna go with a shackle relocation kit and ACOS adjusters up front.

Here is the fab work on the tube fenders. Credit must be given to illianaXJ though!
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=941084

 

[sunburned]

I'm not really looking to gain MORE flex. I'm just trying to keep the amount of flex I already have and clear 35s.

I really appreciate the info, and seeing the setup on you rigs helps out a lot too. I'm certain the current setup will clear 35s but I just don't want to sacrifice any flex.

Sunburned: do you rub a lot when flexing like that? If not your setup night be just what I'm looking for.

The way everything is set up now, there is almost zero rubbing.

The rear has adjustable DPG bumpstop plates, so where you see the rear tire in the pics is maxed out flex. Stops just before rubbing the fenders.

In the front, I had to trim the fenders quite a bit as you can see, plus the backside of the front bumper so I stopped rubbing on that. The only place I rub is inside the wheelwells and really the only option there is to bumpstop a little more or cut them out like EricsXJ did. I've beat mine with a hammer in certain spots to gain a tad more clearance though.

I've done some hard trails that the 35's really helped with clearance on big rocks, but never wished I had more flex, nor needed it. Now that I've trimmed the fenders to the point where I'm not rubbing anymore, I'd like to throw on a tube fender similar to yours from the rocker slider to the front bumper.

 

[ocean_jet]

I personally would not lift beyond 5.5". I use the RE 4.5" + ACOS/Shackle boxes to get to 5.5". That and some fender trimming and 35's fit fine.


But, if you want to add more lift to the back, I would suggest checking out the HD Offroad Engineering Shackle Boxes.

 

[whitexj98]

Funny, im at 6.5 and 35s and want less lift!

 

[ktm racer 419]

I'm not really looking to gain MORE flex. I'm just trying to keep the amount of flex I already have and clear 35s.

I really appreciate the info, and seeing the setup on you rigs helps out a lot too. I'm certain the current setup will clear 35s but I just don't want to sacrifice any flex.

you dont need more lift to clear 35s when flexed.

you need bumpstops.

because a picture is as good as 1000 words....

heres under 3" of lift with iroks that measured out to 36.8"

how about 4" and 35s

 

[AeroSync]

^
Nice!

Doesn't rim backspacing affect also? I have an RE 3.5" with 35s on JK 17s and I can basically stuff the tire during flex because it doesn't hit the fender. I do rub a bit on the coil buckets.

 

[ktm racer 419]

Doesn't rim backspacing affect also? I have an RE 3.5" with 35s on JK 17s and I can basically stuff the tire during flex because it doesn't hit the fender. I do rub a bit on the coil buckets.

it does, doesn't look like the OP has already trimmed and the higher you go the smarter it is to get a little more width to your setup, not only to clear suspension components when turning, but for stability.

if there are no fenders in the way, the further out the tires are the better the flex is as well.

 

[wnckrawler]

I'm trimmed front and rear. I guess bump stopping is my next option.

 

[Vanimal]

im at 5" and although i have 33's, there is plenty of room for 35's. the trick is to trim. i did a major trim in the rear where i cut past the pinch seam and welded in a new filler pannel.

 

[ktm racer 419]

I'm trimmed front and rear. I guess bump stopping is my next option.

proper bumpstops are a critical part of the suspension if you want a well performing rig.

 

[wnckrawler]

Vanimal: Are you 4 linked?

 

[ktm racer 419]

me? 3 linked

 

[Tom95YJ]

I'm with KTMRacer Bump stop it properly, I'm about to throw on 33x13.50 toyo open country mt's with proper bump stops and trimming

 

[Vanimal]

Vanimal: Are you 4 linked?

3 linked in the rear