Actual Engine Oil Capacity

Thanks for the measurement. It appears that I have the wrong dipstick.
Nothing a centerpunch and a hammer didn't solve. Now I have the "proper" fill mark noted.
 
That's a great idea. I alway pre-fill oil filters to eliminate the long wait time for the oil pressure to build.
I pour a 1/2 qt. of oil in the new filter and then wait a few moments for the oil to saturate the paper media before installing. None of it spills out.
The pressure comes up within 2-3 seconds, twice as fast as when using an empty filter.
I cannot see a downside to doing this.


I do this as well... I fill the filter clear full (I use a oil filter for a mid 80s mustang 5.0, it works trust me, bigger filter :) ), and let the filter soak up the oil. I then install the filter, and very little if any spills. I moved my charcoal canister up in its mount (for better clearance installing oil filter) and have the whole thing basically down to a science though.
 
I do this as well... I fill the filter clear full (I use a oil filter for a mid 80s mustang 5.0, it works trust me, bigger filter :) ), and let the filter soak up the oil. I then install the filter, and very little if any spills. I moved my charcoal canister up in its mount (for better clearance installing oil filter) and have the whole thing basically down to a science though.

So for example an '85 Mustang 5.0 would fit? An Hp-3001 correct?
 
I use Motorcraft FL1A, a common number for many Fords. It's a little larger than the stock XJ 4.0 filter, and if it can withstand a higher-winding V-8, the 4.0 should be just fine.
 
Keep in mind these guys are talking about HO XJs, this will *not* work on Renix XJs.

Personally I like the placement of the Renix filter better than the HO, I find the spills more containable with it (I each).
 
Keep in mind these guys are talking about HO XJs, this will *not* work on Renix XJs.

Personally I like the placement of the Renix filter better than the HO, I find the spills more containable with it (I each).
If you swap to the newer SAE threads, then the filters mentioned above will work.
 
When did this sticker start- HO, '91? This is on my '92, and I've always wondered why.
000_1155.jpg
 
Keep in mind these guys are talking about HO XJs, this will *not* work on Renix XJs.

Personally I like the placement of the Renix filter better than the HO, I find the spills more containable with it (I each).


Which way do they point? My '92 it is upside down, the '96 it points to the starter. Both positions have their own disadvantage. Is it possible to clock the mount? Make the '92 filter point another way, so you don't dump ALL of it by the time it's unscrewed!
 
Which way do they point? My '92 it is upside down, the '96 it points to the starter. Both positions have their own disadvantage. Is it possible to clock the mount? Make the '92 filter point another way, so you don't dump ALL of it by the time it's unscrewed!

This is seriously why a filter relocation kit is the way to go.
Engine_01.sized.jpg


I'm thinking right behind the overflow bottle with a single filter kit.
 
I like the idea of a filter relocation kit but I would rather spend money on other things right now. I've gotten so I can remove filters with only a small splash of oil... instead of spinning it off all at once on the old style mount, remove it slowly so it has a chance to break the vacuum and mostly drain into the filter base and out the drain plug. With the new, sideways filter you end up with free rust prevention coating no matter how you do it.
 
When did this sticker start- HO, '91? This is on my '92, and I've always wondered

Yes, it started in '91.

Which way do they point? My '92 it is upside down, the '96 it points to the starter. Both positions have their own disadvantage. Is it possible to clock the mount? Make the '92 filter point another way, so you don't dump ALL of it by the time it's unscrewed!

I'm not sure why the '92 is upside down, it ought to be pointing sideways like your '96. I prefer the upside down because when you unscrew it a little bit all the oil will drain out of the filter to your strategically placed catch can, when I pop the sideways one only some of it comes out and then more comes out as I remove the filter making a mess.

You can clock the mounts fairly easily but you cannot make the top of the filter point upward due to clearance issues.

This is seriously why a filter relocation kit is the way to go.

I'd go the way Kyung out here did. He had a filter relocation kit on soft lines with the filter clamped to a convenient place on the fender wall. That way when you need to change the filter you simply put a drip pan up on the engine, unclamp the filter, and lift the whole assembly up into the pan and unscrew thus making no mess at all. Whenever I get off my lazy ass and put a kit in my red Jeep (I'll probably put it off until I build my stroker) I'll be doing this.
 
If you have a 90 and earlier and want to convert to a SAE filter:

OIL FILTER METRIC TO SAE:


53007563AB
@dealer
 
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