A quick link for a -6AN fitting to the AW4 cooler line.

[squirrel80]

I was asked to post info on this fitting and hopefully it will be helpful for anyone else that is looking for a way to connect braided line to their tranny.


Here is the fitting and you will still need an o-ring with this.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Russell/799/670520/10002/-1

The tranny side is the 14mm x 1.5

you can just see the blue fitting in this picture

 

[Skullver]

edit: erased bad info

 

[squirrel80]

I'm being told by a Jeepspeed friend that the front line is the supply(hot side). An easy way to find out is to start your jeep cold and power brake it for about 10 seconds, shut off and feel the lines. The hot side will be revealed. I did not have this ability on the jack stands so I am taking his word for it.

 

[Stallacrew]

The front line is the hot line.

 

[squirrel80]

cool deal. I used these fittings from ATI for -8 AN(http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=ATI-925138), they come in pairs and have the teflon sealing washer also(but were quite a bit more expensive). Looking really good there! Quick question but which of those lines is the supply to cooler(hot side?), I can't find the schematic I had and can't quite remember from when I took it apart.
Thanks

The fiiting that you show is 1/4" pipe thread and is not what the AW4 is. The threads are very close but I had the tranny out when we tried out all the fitting and the metric fitting is the correct one. I did notice that the 1/4" fitting will thread in all the way but it fits loosely and I would be afraid to torque down on it. Be careful using that style I would hate to strip out the tranny.

 

[Skullver]

I'm being told by a Jeepspeed friend that the front line is the supply(hot side). An easy way to find out is to start your jeep cold and power brake it for about 10 seconds, shut off and feel the lines. The hot side will be revealed. I did not have this ability on the jack stands so I am taking his word for it.

thanks, jeep is not quite there yet either so.....looks like I'll be trying harder to find that schematic. I am trying to plumb the trans temp gauge right off of the hot side inline as opposed to trying to get a bung welded into the pan for it.
Thanks for the info, I'll update you when/if I can find that schematic.

 

[Skullver]

The fiiting that you show is 1/4" pipe thread and is not what the AW4 is. The threads are very close but I had the tranny out when we tried out all the fitting and the metric fitting is the correct one. I did notice that the 1/4" fitting will thread in all the way but it fits loosely and I would be afraid to torque down on it. Be careful using that style I would hate to strip out the tranny.

I did notice it was a bit loose, hmmm. I'll have to look into this further, thanks much
edit: damn, took somebody elses word for it and ordered them and after a quick comparison, you are right, they are slightly different At least I find out now.
Thanks!

 

[53guy]

The tranny side is the 14mm x 1.5

you can just see the blue fitting in this picture

That's awesome! Thanks a ton! My plastic attachments are leaking and need replacing. Got a quick question, do the plastic connections just unscrew to reveal the threads or is there something else in the way? Also, what Oring did you use?

 

[Stallacrew]

That's awesome! Thanks a ton! My plastic attachments are leaking and need replacing. Got a quick question, do the plastic connections just unscrew to reveal the threads or is there something else in the way? Also, what Oring did you use?

You have to remove the plastic quick-disconnect (push inward and then pull out). then you unscrew the large steel hex shanked QD fitting. Then you replace the steel hex with the blue one and an o-ring. That way you can screw your hose on with a fitting rather than have a QD that will leak or hose clamped hose (like mine).

Easy peasy.

--Alex

 

[squirrel80]

That's awesome! Thanks a ton! My plastic attachments are leaking and need replacing. Got a quick question, do the plastic connections just unscrew to reveal the threads or is there something else in the way? Also, what Oring did you use?

Remember there are still the tranny cooler fittings and the radiator fittings to deal with. I have a Aluminum Raditor from Oscar's Radiator and an aftermarket cooler so these fittings are going to differ from jeep to jeep. This will not work with all the other fatory lines. I threw those away and built all my own. Also -6 seams to work best on tranny line I tried -8 on my old suburban with a Turbo 400 and I could not get the adapter to the radiator in -8 only -6. There is alot more variety of aftermarket specialty fittings for -6. I got the o-ring from an assortment kit I have, but any good parts store should be able to get something for you. Or use the factory o-ring that comes off the factory fitting.

 

[53guy]

Edit, already answered my question.

 

[squirrel80]

I found a better pic of the tranny fittings.

 

[squirrel80]

One more bump before this thread gets buried in Modified tech.

 

[silverslk]

So, are you running the trans to the stand alone cooler and not through the radiator portion at all or running through both? The reason I am asking is I was thinking about not running the radiator side and only using a stand alone trans cooler, thinking that off road the torque converter spinning might be some of my cause for running hot due to extra heat being introduced into the system.

 

[squirrel80]

So, are you running the trans to the stand alone cooler and not through the radiator portion at all or running through both? The reason I am asking is I was thinking about not running the radiator side and only using a stand alone trans cooler, thinking that off road the torque converter spinning might be some of my cause for running hot due to extra heat being introduced into the system.

Nope I will be running both coolers. I am hoping to keep everything below 200 degress all the time. I had a hard time keeping my tranny cool in a previous vehicle with just a stand alone cooler. That was a 600 horse big block with a high stall though.