A peak at what a certain traitor has been up to

[xj-grin]

lookin secksy, Rich.

 

[DutchVDub]

Thanks guys, I'm getting rally excited. I was hoping to work on it more this weekend but I had to do some serious garage cleaning and install a set of 4.56's in a 95 Fullsize Bronco.

 

[Yucca-Man]

Damn Dutch - the tire/wheel combo takes some getting used to, but looks pretty good!

 

[DutchVDub]

You don't like my balla 20's? It wasn't part of the original plan but I found the 4 39.5x13.5 IROKs for 300$ and the rims were only 60$each brand new. I am contemplating selling/trading them for a similar size tire but for a 17" rim. That way I can go back to steel wheels and get some weld-on beadlocks

 

[DutchVDub]

Got the chance to work on it a bit more today, I didn't get as much done as I wanted but thats the way it goes sometimes.
bench bled my new brake master cylinder, its off of a 1979 Lincoln Continental. Literally bolts right to the stock YJ booster, you just need two adapter for the brakelines. A 7/16 to 1/2 and a 1/2 to 7/16, I got mine from Autozone for under 4$ after tax.

side by side with the stock master

Installed

Welded up my BTF diff cover for the 14bolt

Then I painted it and my BTF 14bolt Pinion Guard

I also got the front brakes hooked up. I just extended the hard line using some prebuilt lines from Autozone and a union. This way I can use the stock GM brakeline on my calipers. I've done this in the past and had better luck with it than with extended braided lines. I still need to secure them to the frame.

Thats all i got done unfortunately, I'm working on bending my rear brakelines and installing the line-lock for the rear too.

 

[YELLAHEEP]

Hmmmm........ To me, the master cylinder simply looks like it holds more fluid in the reservior, but the piston chamber length and size appears to be the same as the YJ. What's the benefit for the swap?

 

[ColoradoRaptor]

I can't believe this garbage is allowed here......... I thought this was a damn XJ forum not a sissy CJ, TJ or WJ hangout.....lastara........:moon:

 

[Kittrell]

I believe the MC application was for 4 wheel disc brakes with hydroboost, i.e. larger bore to push more fluid (IIRC 1.125" bore vs. the Jeep 7/8" bore)

 

[DutchVDub]

I can't believe this garbage is allowed here......... I thought this was a damn XJ forum not a sissy CJ, TJ or WJ hangout.....lastara........:moon:

A total of 8 factory XJ leafpacks sacrificed themselves to make my suspension, thats propably a larger percentage of XJ on my rig than Truggy had.

I believe the MC application was for 4 wheel disc brakes with hydroboost, i.e. larger bore to push more fluid (IIRC 1.125" bore vs. the Jeep 7/8" bore)

Exactly,I've talked to a guy on Pirate that is currently building an Ultr4 rig and will be competing in KOH2011 with it. This was the exact master he recommended and is using on both that rig and his YJ crawler. Both are on 40's and running 1ton brakes like me.

 

[xj-grin]

I can't believe this garbage is allowed here......... I thought this was a damn XJ forum not a sissy CJ, TJ or WJ hangout.....lastara........:moon:

bigot.:looser:

 

[YELLAHEEP]

I believe the MC application was for 4 wheel disc brakes with hydroboost, i.e. larger bore to push more fluid (IIRC 1.125" bore vs. the Jeep 7/8" bore)

Exactly,I've talked to a guy on Pirate that is currently building an Ultr4 rig and will be competing in KOH2011 with it. This was the exact master he recommended and is using on both that rig and his YJ crawler. Both are on 40's and running 1ton brakes like me.

So, I take it that this MC swap only works for the YJ booster? Won't work on an XJ?

 

[DutchVDub]

Not sure what the differences are between the two really. The reason this swap works so well for the YJ is because the mounting for this master is the same as the YJ and it requires the same length pushrod coming out of the booster. It also uses the same 7/16 and 1/2 thread lines, you just need the 4$ worth of adapters to switch which fitting goes where.

 

[DutchVDub]

I pulled the 14bolt back out to weld on some new perches due to pinion angle issues. I also welded on my shock mounts and traction bar mount

Then I cut up a stock F250 front driveshaft to installed it. I'm going to swap in a Tom Woods offset U-Joint at the t-case side just in case ut reclocking the pinion angle definately helped with my drivline issues. With the stock perches I couldn't spin my driveshaft because it binded at rideheight.

I also ran my brakelines and got the wife to help my bleed the brakes, final result was I was able to drive my Jeep again (albeit just in the culdesac) for the first time in almost a year.
Things left to do:
- traction bar
- axle vent lines
- shocks
- wire up rear line-lock
- cage
- fuelcell (just have the stock tank in the back for now)
- suspension seats (2 adult sized for the front and a kid friendly one for the rear so my 2.5yr old is safe too)
- armor pieces for the rockers, rear corners, and whats left of the front fenders
- wheel it, roll it, break it, and rebuild it

 

[Frank Z]

Your drive shaft doesn't look like it's gonna last too long with the angles you've set.
http://www.4xshaft.com/driveline101.html

vs.

 

[DutchVDub]

I originally had it setup at 5* up (thats where the stock perches set it) to match the t-cases 5* down. The problem there was that it wouldn't spin because the t-case side was binding at ride height.

After talking to several driveline shops they said that even though i was using a single cardon setup to just go ahead and point the pinion either at the t-case or 2* above (like you would for a double cardon/c.v.). They said it wouldn't be a problem for a trail rig because I won't be doing highway speeds. Keep in mind too that when I install the offset u-joint at the t-case there will be no such thing as a vibration free driveshaft. Not that it should matter as its a trail-only vehicle. Farthest it'll probably ever go on pavement is the 3miles from my house to work just for kicks

 

[.40CalPatriot]

Lookin good!

 

[ColoradoRaptor]

I originally had it setup at 5* up (thats where the stock perches set it) to match the t-cases 5* down. The problem there was that it wouldn't spin because the t-case side was binding at ride height.

WOW.........

After talking to several driveline shops they said that even though i was using a single cardon setup to just go ahead and point the pinion either at the t-case or 2* above (like you would for a double cardon/c.v.). They said it wouldn't be a problem for a trail rig because I won't be doing highway speeds. Keep in mind too that when I install the offset u-joint at the t-case there will be no such thing as a vibration free driveshaft. Not that it should matter as its a trail-only vehicle.

Several driveline shops told you that????? Hmmmmm....... I am glad I do my own work!!

 

[DutchVDub]

WOW.........



Several driveline shops told you that????? Hmmmmm....... I am glad I do my own work!!

Including Tom Woods

Its definately not recommended on a street vehicle, but for a trail rig its fine.

 

[DutchVDub]

Not really an update, just a decent shot of its final ride height. I finally managed to take a picture of it during the day, my 10hr work schedule has me forgetting what sunlight is.
Its not too much taller than the stock full sized bronco either, not bad for SOA with no special frenching of the spring mounts

 

[fireLt.]

Really like the nice low cog. That thing will be stable and well balanced. Good job!